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<title><![CDATA[iFixit - Answers]]></title>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers?rss=yes</link>
<description><![CDATA[Top Questions according to your query.]]></description>
<language>en-US</language>
<pubDate>Sun, 19 Apr 2026 23:50:35 -0700</pubDate>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Samsung Galaxy M01: Speaker is not working but it is working with earphones]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My phone speaker is not working but it is working when I use it with earphones?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950677/Speaker+is+not+working+but+it+is+working+with+earphones</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950677</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 08:09:41 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Dell Latitude E7450: Dell Latitude E7450 - Shuts down when battery is plugged in / Unknown Adapter Throttling]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hi everyone, I'm having a weird power issue with my Dell Latitude E7450 (i7-5600U).</p>

<p>Currently, I'm using a 3rd party &quot;Techie&quot; brand AC adapter (1 month old). The BIOS reports it as &quot;Unknown&quot;, which causes heavy CPU throttling (stuck at 0.8GHz) and audio crackling.</p>

<p>Here's the strange behavior:</p>

<p>1. If I use the laptop with ONLY the charger (battery removed), it turns on, but it lags heavily and ThrottleStop cannot bypass the 0.8GHz limit.</p>

<p>2. If I plug the battery in, the laptop immediately shuts off.</p>

<p>3. Before it shuts off with the battery, the Battery LED blinks RED/Amber (it's usually white).</p>

<p>4. I checked the DC Jack and every thing is correct.</p>

<p>5. Also when I open just by charger no battery at all then evrything go right but it sticks blank on screen after sign in interface.</p>

<p>I've tried:</p>

<p>- Hard resetting (draining static).</p>

<p>- Using ThrottleStop (works sometimes when battery is connected, but now the battery seems to cause a shutdown).</p>

<p>- Measuring the adapter: 19.5V is present, but signal pin is at 0.1V.</p>

<p>Is my battery shorted, or is this all caused by the damaged DC Jack? Why does the laptop shut down only when the battery is inserted? Any advice on how to bypass this hardware throttle without a battery would be great. Thanks!</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950676/Dell+Latitude+E7450+-+Shuts+down+when+battery+is+plugged+in+-+Unknown+Adapter+Throttling</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950676</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 08:06:37 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[AirPods Max: Digital Crown Flex removal]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/y2aOMgaoSWjGw6Am.standard" width="169" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/y2aOMgaoSWjGw6Am.huge&quot;, '', 'width=900,height=1200')" /></div>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/AyxqJpLSReRUQGSn.standard" width="169" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/AyxqJpLSReRUQGSn.full&quot;, '', 'width=1576,height=2100')" /></div>

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am working on replacing all the ANC mics on my APM due to hiss. I got the left fixed, but hit a snag with the right. This mic flex also includes the button for the crown, and I cannot see how on earth I get that off the old one. You can see in my picture that the screw has zero room to get to it, same on the bottom. Does anyone know how that is meant to come off, or how I detach the crown to get to it? Is there a special tool I need? Thanks!</p>

<p>⟐ Edited by author 4월 16, 2026 at 7:45 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950604/Digital+Crown+Flex+removal</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950604</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 07:45:29 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Acer Aspire E5-475: Why my laptop showing black screen and a small blinking white?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My laptop won't work if the charger is not plugged in and I thought it was normal then while using using my laptop the charger suddenly fall and my laptop turned off and when I try to turn it on it still shows the acer logo then I cancel the bootable by typing F2 repeatedly then etc..and when I'm done canceling that bootable the acer logo appears again and that was normal after that my screen should show all the apps and etc..but suddenly it shows black screen and a small white blinking in the left upper side of my laptop how do I fix this??</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950675/Why+my+laptop+showing+black+screen+and+a+small+blinking+white</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950675</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 07:25:20 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[MacBook Air 11" Early 2015: Cause of shutdown when sleeping]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>What would cause this unit to shutdown after around 20 minutes when put to sleep? We haven't changed any battery or sleep mode settings and the battery is a good one. We can close the lid and open it after a few minutes and all is well, but when it is left closed for say 20 minutes the unit is turned off. We tested it with our clean installed SSD and the same happens..... We have reset the SMC, PRAM, run diagnostics &amp; there are no errors being reported, ..... I have been told this was an issue with Monterey &amp; up, but I never encountered this before....I noticed that when it is connected to a charger it didn't shut down after the lid is closed for a longer time. System is on 12.7.6.....baffled.</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 7:14 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938847/Cause+of+shutdown+when+sleeping</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938847</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 07:14:08 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428: iMac 2011 only #4 diagnostic LED is lit problem after upgrade]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hi everyone, I am kind of new here so here is my little story which I am having at the moment.<br />I have been diagnosing my iMac 21 mid 2011 for about a month, and I cannot get it to start back up no matter anything that I've tried and diagnosed, I only get #4 diagnostic LED to lit which is for LCD panel/inverter, nothing else.<br /><br />First I thought it was the PSU on it's way to failure from age, but purchasing a new replacement didn't made any difference.<br /><br />Then I've thought the internal connector which goes from power supply to the mb (motherboard) which gives it power and it may have been damaged while I disconnected it from the PSU, and I may have to get it, nothing changed.<br />But, one interesting thing is that both PSU's giving high pitched noise and &quot;clicks&quot; one or 2 per 3 seconds or so. I can record it as a voice memo if needed.<br />After that I thought the iMac's chassis may shorting components inside, so I measured voltages with the beeper on multi, everything is fine on that side. (no beeps)<br /><br />As motherboards rarely fail, I also purchased a replacement, which also did no difference.<br /><br />I think I have verified everything that could come to my mind, and I simply cannot get it power on no matter what I have tried. I am mostly specialist in laptops, so this is my first attempt and experience on getting inside an iMac.<br />I really hate throwing electronics away, I always try to diagnose them in every possible way. I have no one to ask and who could assist me in helping with this, as everyone who I know are always with their stuff.<br /><br />If any more info is needed or I may have something missed during diagnostics, please please let me know, I will very much appreciate it.</p>

<p>⟐ Commented 4월 16, 2026 at 7:05 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/948648/iMac+2011+only+%234+diagnostic+LED+is+lit+problem+after+upgrade</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/948648</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 07:05:48 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Realme C25y: My realme phones display jack are lacking]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>When I press the display than he works</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950672/My+realme+phones+display+jack+are+lacking</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950672</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 07:00:47 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Microsoft Surface Laptop Studio 2: Does anyone know where to source D Plate Screws? Cannot find anywhere]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Ive rounded a few screws that hold the d plate, im wondering if this has happened to anyone, whether they sourced the correct screw or if they have used an alternative.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950671/Does+anyone+know+where+to+source+D+Plate+Screws+Cannot+find+anywhere</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950671</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 06:13:46 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Samsung GT-E1205Y: comment faire pour réparer un court circuit]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Comment réparer un court circuit si on met la batterie</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 5:52 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950668/comment+faire+pour+r%C3%A9parer+un+court+circuit</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950668</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:52:32 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Refrigerator: Combină Samsung RB29 FSRNDWW 290 litri Clasa A+ Full no frost]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Sub ultimul sertar al congelatorului (de jos)  face gheață care se topește și curge pe gresie. Unde este problema ?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950667/Combin%C4%83+Samsung+RB29+FSRNDWW+290+litri+Clasa+A++Full+no+frost</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950667</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:46:12 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[HP ProBook 630 G8: My finger print is not working]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My finger print is not working</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 5:37 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950624/My+finger+print+is+not+working</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950624</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:37:29 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[hp Officejet Pro 8600 Pro: printer keeps going off line]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>printer keeps  going off line,  how to fix</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 5:32 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/343022/printer+keeps+going+off+line</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/343022</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:32:58 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Nintendo Switch: Can anyone help me identify where this pad lead to?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/E4nuiBTexkyIHOqS.standard" width="225" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/E4nuiBTexkyIHOqS.huge&quot;, '', 'width=1200,height=1200')" /></div>

<p>I tried (&amp; obviously failed) to swap the display flex ZIF socket in the original first-gen Nintendo switch and tore a solder pad off. I’m pretty confident that I can fly a wire out from that remaining bit of solder pad, but I need to check whether I did the job properly. Can anyone tell me where this particular pad(10th from the left not counting the large one) lead to so I can check it with a multimeter or smth?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance!</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950663/Can+anyone+help+me+identify+where+this+pad+lead+to</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950663</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:30:38 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Other Brand Angle Grinder: Lead shift ,Rewinding 24 bar 12 slot armature]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I am rewinding an armature for an old-model metal-bodied Chinese mini angle grinder (approx. 700W-850W, 11,000-12,000 RPM).</p>

<p>Technical Specs:</p>

<p>- Core: 12 slots, 24 commutator bars.</p>

<p>- Dimensions: Core length 55mm, diameter 3.2cm.</p>

<p>- Wire: 32 AWG (0.20mm).</p>

<p>- Winding: Factory was 22 turns/coil (88 wires/slot total), but I plan to use 23 turns/coil (92 wires/slot) to improve torque and heat management.</p>

<p>- Pitch: 1 to 6.</p>

<p>- Progression: Retrogressive (1 -&gt; 24 -&gt; 23).</p>

<p>- Brushes: Positioned 90 degrees from the stator coils.</p>

<p>- Potting: Using two-part submersible pump epoxy (thinned with heat) in a vertical gravity-pour method.</p>

<p>The specific question is about the Lead Shift:</p>

<p>Because I am adding an extra turn (23 instead of 22) and the brushes are at 90 degrees, which lead shift is best to handle the high RPM and field twist?</p>

<p>1. Zero Shift (Bar 1 directly in center of Slot 1).</p>

<p>2. 7.5 Degree Shift (Mica directly in center of Slot 1).</p>

<p>3. 15 Degree Shift (Bar 24, one bar left, in center of Slot 1).</p>

<p>I am leaning toward the 7.5° (Mica Center) shift as a balance, but I'm worried about &quot;fire-ringing&quot; at 11,000 RPM. Has anyone done this specific 23-turn mod on these 12/24 armatures?</p>

<p>By ibot guess, the magnetic shift will ne around 18degree. I can't retrieve any original data of lead shift but from one saved coil, i get continuity from bar24 and 23, assuming first bar in center of slot is bar 1 and winding is retrogressive, connections moving left.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950662/Lead+shift+,Rewinding+24+bar+12+slot+armature</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950662</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:30:06 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[C21y: Why my phone is slowly charging]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>It gets twelve hours to get 100%</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 5:06 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/858770/Why+my+phone+is+slowly+charging</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/858770</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 05:06:25 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[JLC JLC47BC3002 Television (47"): JVC SI50UR: Sound but No Picture - Vertical Lines & Tape Fix Attempt]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My JVC TV (Model SI50UR) has sound but no picture; it only displays vertical lines. I already tried the DIY trick of placing tape on the flex cable pins, but that only changed the pattern of the lines. Also, when masking certain areas, the lines react to the remote control inputs.</p>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/fYjRwDteo5sALoRC.standard" width="282" height="212" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/fYjRwDteo5sALoRC.huge&quot;, '', 'width=1594,height=1200')" /></div>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/YMZL6BPJHaUC45Mm.standard" width="282" height="216" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/YMZL6BPJHaUC45Mm.full&quot;, '', 'width=1280,height=983')" /></div>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/xOnErdICroHE4ius.standard" width="282" height="211" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/xOnErdICroHE4ius.full&quot;, '', 'width=1280,height=960')" /></div>

<p>⟐ Commented 4월 16, 2026 at 4:53 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938018/JVC+SI50UR:+Sound+but+No+Picture+-+Vertical+Lines+&amp;+Tape+Fix+Attempt</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938018</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 04:53:04 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Galaxy S20: Microphone HS and Charging usb C/usb A doesn't work - SAMSUNG S20 5G]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>Hi everyone,</strong></p>

<p>About a week ago, my <strong>Samsung S20 5G</strong> started having issues — it stopped charging with USB-C to USB-C. So I first tried cleaning the USB port, but that didn’t fix it.</p>

<p>A few days later, I also lost <strong>mic 1 (the one used for calls)</strong>.</p>

<p>I then bought and replaced the <strong>charging port (daughterboard)</strong> without too much trouble, but the issue is still the same after reboot.</p>

<p>Right now:</p>

<ul><li>it <strong>charges with USB-A to USB-C</strong></li><li>but <strong>not with USB-C to USB-C</strong></li></ul>

<p>And now I’m getting a <strong>red temperature warning triangle</strong>, which even prevents charging with USB-A.</p>

<p>For context, my <strong>back cover is cracked</strong>, just in case that matters.</p>

<p>I’m running out of ideas at this point, so if anyone has suggestions, I’d really appreciate it!</p>

<p><strong>Thanks in advance to anyone who tries to help!</strong> 🙏</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950655/Microphone+HS+and+Charging+usb+C-usb+A+doesn&#039;t+work+-+SAMSUNG+S20+5G</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950655</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 04:10:07 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[HP smart tank 516: It print wrong colour]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My printer was printing perfectly, but suddenly I noticed that the colors became faded. It prints black and its shades well, but other colours only prints light orange.</p>

<p>⟐ Answered 4월 16, 2026 at 4:05 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950648/It+print+wrong+colour</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950648</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 04:05:16 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[PlayStation 4 Pro: PS4 Pro Displays Black Screen, Even in Safe Mode]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello, I have a PS4 Pro CUH 7016B, and it has some strange issues. When I got the PS4, it would turn off after some time while playing demanding games, and it also had an overheating warning, so I thought new thermal paste would solve it. I used Arctic MX-6, and I am sure I applied it correctly, as I have done this many times. After reassembling the console, it was still not that quiet, but as far as I know, this is normal for Pros. The next day, I tried testing it further to ensure it was working properly, and in the middle of the game, it beeped three times and turned off. The weird thing is that the fans were not even at max speed, so I am assuming overheating is not an issue. I did not receive any overheating warnings. Sometimes it would also turn off without even beeping. To be completely sure, I reapplied the thermal paste, but that did not change anything. Then I tried testing the PSU with a multimeter, and it was showing 11.86 volts, so that should be okay. The next thing I tried was replacing the HDD, but after doing so, the blue light would flash once before the console turned off. After trying to power it on a few more times, it turned on, but now all I see is a black image, and that's it. I tried putting the old HDD back in, but nothing changed. The same thing happened in safe mode. I also tried cleaning the HDMI cord, using different TVs and displays, and using a different HDMI cable, all with no success. Does anybody know why this is happening? Maybe my APU is dead?</p>

<p>Edit: i should have clarified this before but it does actually seem to enter safe mode because the light turns white.</p>

<p>⟐ Commented 4월 16, 2026 at 4:02 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/889677/PS4+Pro+Displays+Black+Screen,+Even+in+Safe+Mode</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/889677</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 04:02:05 -0700</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Olympus VR-350: Why is my camera screen like blocked out by large white blocks]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I turn on my camera and the screen is like blocked and glitchy. It still can take photos and everything else is fine. How do I fix this? Do I need to change the screen?</p>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/VMMcXW2mDGK4FQeM.standard" width="169" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/VMMcXW2mDGK4FQeM.huge&quot;, '', 'width=900,height=1200')" /></div>

<p>⟐ Edited by author 4월 16, 2026 at 3:52 GMT-7</p>]]></description>
<link>https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950651/Why+is+my+camera+screen+like+blocked+out+by+large+white+blocks</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://ko.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950651</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 03:52:44 -0700</pubDate>
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