⟐ Answered 3월 06, 2022 at 15:25 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 1월 18, 2022 at 16:37 GMT-7

The dishwasher is a Kenmore Elite Ultraclean Model 665.1279, purchased in May of 2015.

⟐ Commented 12월 17, 2018 at 13:40 GMT-7

After opening, unit has water in tub (it should).

Hitting start/cancel causes unit to drain properly.

After opening, unit is dry (it should be).

Can find no obvious blockages.

Motor works, pump works, etc. The machines is 13 yrs. old but runs very well. Don't want a new one. Thanks you!

⟐ Edited 11월 09, 2015 at 15:44 GMT-7

i have a dishwasher motor and i want to use it to make a cheese grinder, so my question is how to connect with 110v direct to work... the other piece with the white plastic i don't need.

⟐ Answer unaccepted 5월 23, 2015 at 12:38 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 08, 2023 at 1:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 11월 28, 2025 at 9:56 GMT-7

When the cycle starts there's a 3 second whirl of the new pump and then it fills with wash water and goes through the wash cycle, but won't pump the wash water out before it goes into the rinse cycle. At the end of the rinse cycle the dishwasher quits and displays the OE code.

By pressing three buttons on the door panel I can get the pump to pump out, although not consistently, and I can get a new cycle to start again, but with the same issues.

Could the circuit board be faulty?

Also, I've read confusing statements about the water level sensor that seems to be called a "turbidity" sensor. Can someone please clarify.

Finally, if the water level sensor/turbidity sensor is faulty could the drain pump be getting a signal that it's not needed??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

⟐ Commented 11월 17, 2023 at 3:13 GMT-7

Tried turning power off for 1 minute & pushing 2 different buttons a total of 10 times. Nothing works. Unit is a little over 1 year old.

⟐ Commented 7월 14, 2025 at 13:28 GMT-7

Having an issue with my Kenmore dishwasher from 2015. Model is 66513409N412.

The Dishwasher will not drain. There is no power to the drain pump during the drain cycle.

Things I have already done:

1. Checked for a blockage.

2. Replaced the drain line.

3. Replaced the drain pump.

4. Checked floater switch ( just for contact, I don't know if the sensor is broken)

And it still won't drain. The pump doesn't even make any noise when drain cycle starts. I'm about to go hook a multimeter up to the drain pump wire harness to see if it's getting any power, I'm guessing it isn't.

Any suggestions? This model doesn't have a flap to open and close in the main pump, everything else seems to be working fine on it.

⟐ Commented 2월 11, 2025 at 8:59 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 1월 27, 2026 at 7:16 GMT-7

I had service check to be sure it is running properly, and they said the machine is operating properly, including water temp being hot enough. I’ve used citrus crystals three times - zero impact. I’ve tried different detergents - Finish and Kirkland, yet no difference. I called the neighbors to see if they’ve had any new issues, thinking it might be the city water, and nothing. I even called the City, and they haven’t changed the water chemistry, pipes or anything in my area, so it can’t be the water.

Help please - we’re stumped!

Thanks,

Chris

⟐ Commented 5월 27, 2024 at 6:52 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4월 01, 2024 at 6:14 GMT-7

On my whirlpool ADG 8516, one of both spray arms is not rotating. I did some online research and made sure the pump is ok, the arm is not clogged, etc… Also, i was surprised one arm was ok, while the other was not. So i disassembled the bottom arm (the not working one), and saw there was no water coming out of the tube it’s attached to. I took a picture and saw it was shut off by some sort of valve.

I then disassembled the grey tubing and came to this point:

I pushed a bit the round blue plastic piece with the holes around, put everything together again and checked the result. The result was the bottom arm rotating in contrary to the top arm. :-/

So problem not solved but ‘different’. I assume the issue is a broken motor which moves around the blue valve.

My question is: Why is that valve there, what is its purpose? When should it rotate? After a couple of washing cycles the top arm rotates again, but the bottom one is again no longer working. Is it a costly repair? Alternatively, can I get rid of the blue thing, or drill an extra hole in it, so water can get back in the bottom arm?

Thanks

⟐ Commented 6월 29, 2020 at 8:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4월 08, 2026 at 14:22 GMT-7

Ive also tried to turn off the drying cycle and ive tried washing on a lower degree celcius program (40 degree celcius) and nothing helps.

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So i went on another round of soldering. this time i also resoldered some of the filled in holes just north of the big solder on the pic i posted, the one on the top alittle to the right. i also removed the metall on the sides/top just to have a look. and i took of the white styrofoam and pressed teh drainage button about ten times.

What actually fixed my problem is unclear, but it work again! Im pritty sure it was the soldering that fixed it, either the big one resoldered and cleaned up properly, and/or the holes i resoldered at the top (I pritty much just heated the holes up again and let it cool back down). the holes is attatched to one of the two big white blocks on the other side of the pcb (actually through the whole PCB there is 5 off theese, two close to eachother and 3 abit further away). the blocks have the following markings:

HF3FD 012-ZTF(576) 10A 250WAC 85*C China DP078B

Since the button behind the styrofoam is the drain water fail safe, and draining the water was never a problem then i dont think that was the fix.

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It has now stopped working again and now it again stops at "Water in - Wash and heat the water - Drain water - Water in (stops right at the end at the water intake. It stops and goes to Check watersupply while water is going in, just at the end when machine is full off water)" like it did in the beginning of the problem.

So new theory here. Maybe everythime i drain the machine compleetly of water (except the special salt compartment) somehow this makes the machine work for a about a day? maybe the soldering im doing does nothing? i just think it does? i tried to remove the pcb without removing the water intake and water drainage hose'es and redoo the soldering on the pcb then put it back together again and this did nothing. but the other times ive tried (and the machine works then for a day or two) ive reomved the hose'es and put the machin up on its side in order to access the underside of the machine. This way the water left inside the machine (after a drain cycle) pours out of the drainage hole where the drainage hose would be attatched. I feel like ive checked most of the other stuff on the machine now, even the connector on the heating pump and it all looks normal, all tho the connector on the heatingpump is abit burnt (the metal part, not the plastic), but not much.

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I just tried the old way where i disconnected it and drained the machine, redid the soldering again by removing the old solder as good as i could and reapplied new. it still crashes...

Tested a 40 and 50 degree program now and now it works :S i bet as before it will work for about 2-4 washes or 1-2 days and then stop working again >.<

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Here are the 4 types of crashes it gets. What ever type its at it will always be like this untill i drain the machine, take it out of its place and disconnect everything, open it up and remove the main PCB and do so soldering on it then put it back together. After i do that it might change or it might work for a couple of runs then suddently it will choose one of theese 4 types and stay on that type.

1: Water in - washy washy for about 15-20 minutes where it also heats the water - Drain the water - Add new water then crash as the last of the water goes in.

2: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door and wash for a little while more then boom crash with hot water still inside.

3: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) and boom crash while water is close to end of adding.

4: Water in - Washy washy with warming the water - Drain - Water in (to clean off any residue at the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Water in - Washy Washy with heating water for abit then open detergent door while it keeps washing for a whole cycle - Drain water - Add water (To clean off any leftover detergent on the floor of the machine) - Drain water - Add water washy washy - drain water - add water (to get ready for last washy washy and drying program) and then boom crash while last part off water comes in.

⟐ Answer accepted 11월 08, 2025 at 5:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 16, 2025 at 15:32 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 1월 10, 2025 at 20:10 GMT-7

I have read through other questions before asking myself, and am confused as to What to check next.

My dishwasher won't drain.

The drain hose is clear.

The filter, sump filter, and drain pump are clear of debris.

The circulation pump and drain pump have continuity, tested with a multimeter.

The sink drain is fine, and no new garbage disposal.

After I checked the pumps, cleaned, and reassembled, I ran a quick rinse cycle and saw no pooled water. I then ran a full cycle and headed to work. I get back to find dirty water at the bottom.

When I cancel a cycle, I can hear a pump running. It doesn't sound odd or unusual.

Where should I look next? I just learned of the solenoid failure, control failure, or damaged check valve as being probable issues. Would these be reasonable to check?

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Commented 2월 28, 2024 at 19:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answer deleted 5월 18, 2022 at 18:01 GMT-7