⟐ Answered 7월 28, 2024 at 17:57 GMT-7

KR : AirPods Pro 2 충전을 잊어서 유닛과 케이스가 모두 방전되었는데, 기기를 재충전하기만 하면 문제 없이 작동할까요?

⟐ Answered 1월 22, 2024 at 23:26 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 19:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 16:15 GMT-7

If anyone has any suggestions or tips for repairing please let me know.

Thank you

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 13:19 GMT-7

. I took it apart an everything looks good nothin burned etc I’m not sure where is the ic I’m guessing is in the top right cornem with heatsink on it

I replaced this and nothing changed I attached a picture

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 13:18 GMT-7

I got some wd40 to help with a stick drift issue, but some of the wd40 got onto one of the controller buttons, and now it's not responding to my input. I'm still able to press the button, but it doesn't make the same sound compared to the rest of the buttons on my controllers when i press them. It's been quiet after i heard a crunching sound when i pressed it after the wd40 i put on the joysticks was able to dry.

What do i do? Am i able to fix it, or do i need a new controller all together?

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 12:28 GMT-7

I think I can test and replace boards myself (with some guidance) if I know which one is faulty.

Thank you all in advance.

Update 6/8/2024

After a bit of hunting I found the service manual for my model TV.

Here is the link: https://research.encompass.com/SON/rr/XR...

I followed this troubleshooting diagram for the 4x blinking code, but I am getting different results with voltage readings when the TV is booting up, or TV on but blinking 4 times, or off in standby mode.

In other words I get the 3.3V or the 0V at both testing points at different power states of the TV.

So my question is, when am I supposed to be reading these voltages?

While it is booting up, after is has booted and is blinking the code, or plugged in but off in standby mode?

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 11:09 GMT-7

I have the SA-PM18 version. The CD1 draw doesn't stay secured in and I think it's because the little white bit (pictured) it to far back to hold it in so I can just slide it in and out. Also when I turn the player on, it makes a horrible noise like it's trying to turn something but can't. also the little white cog on the left near the front doesn't stay in any position, it just falls down if I move it up.

https://scontent.fadl1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v...

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 10:53 GMT-7

I'm looking for some advice regarding a Meta Quest 3s repair issue.

My headset was fully functional before the repair. I replaced the left speaker bracket/assembly and also repaired a damaged USB-C port after fall damage. Since completing the repair, the headset will no longer power on or charge.

I have already tried:

• Multiple known-good USB-C cables and chargers
• Long presses of the power button (30+ seconds)
• Various button combinations involving the power button
• Testing with another known-good battery
• Checking the power button itself and its connection

The headset remains completely unresponsive:

• No charging indicator
• No LED activity
• No display activity
• No vibration or signs of life

At this point, the only thing I have left to do is start checking voltages and tracing power rails on the board.

Since the headset was working before the repair, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on what could have happened during the USB-C port replacement or speaker bracket replacement.

Are there any common failure points, fuses, protection circuits, damaged traces, disconnected flex cables, or components near the USB-C port that I should check first?

Additionally, I have carefully inspected all internal connections and flex cables multiple times. I found no signs of physical damage, torn cables, bent pins, improperly seated connectors, burn marks, corrosion, or damaged components. All connectors appear to be fully inserted and locked in place.

Visually, the motherboard and surrounding components look completely normal, with no obvious signs of shorts, overheating, or accidental damage during the repair process.

Any additional troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I start probing power rails.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 8:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 3:45 GMT-7

my Bluetooth speaker stopped charging one day. As far as I know it did not suffer any physical damage or anything of sorts. I used to carry it with me sometimes but usually in a bag.

It still has some juice in it because it turns on but after a few seconds turns itself of with not enough battery. LED indicator doesn't even lit up when I connect it to USB cable.

I already opened the device and well everything looks in place. So, if anyone have any idea of what might be the faulty part I would be grateful for suggestions.

It's actually pretty cheap but I am kinda curious what went wrong.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 1:00 GMT-7

It displays the Apple logo that you'd normally see during the boot process. After the light on the front of the device blinks 9 times, it seems to immediately reboot itself.

On just one occasion since this began, iTunes was able to see the Apple TV temporarily when I had connected it with a USB-C cable (with the intent to be to do a software restore on it, if possible).

I have tried two power cables (borrowed from another working Apple TV), two HDMI cables (not perceived to be an issue since we can see the boot logo on screen), different power outlets, and even different televisions.

There are articles on holding the TV and Menu buttons on the remote for 10 seconds to force it to restart. The Apple TV does seem to react to the remove (the light on the front will flash in response to it), but this did not permit a full boot.

Thoughts on what hardware components inside of this would be worth swapping out to get this working again?

⟐ Commented 6월 10, 2026 at 12:12 GMT-7

Hi everyone,

I have a mechanical issue with my Anker Soundcore Space One headphones. The left earcup has popped out of the upper headband arm. The metal swivel pin (the one with the red O-rings) is fully exposed.

The audio still works perfectly, so the internal wire is not damaged. It seems the internal plastic lip/housing inside the headband arm that secures the swivel pin has lost its grip

I have attached some pictures showing the exposed pin and the opened earcup. Any advice or teardown tips for the headband arm would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Commented 6월 10, 2026 at 9:29 GMT-7