전원버튼 옆 하얀색 불빛만 off와 on 반복되고,

중앙 열배출구에서 7초에 한번씩 바람만 심하게 납니다.

해결방법이 있을까요?

인터넷에서 검색도중에 문의드립니다.

와이프의 예전추억이 담긴 오래전 게임기가 하나있는데 다들 고치는걸 포기해서 방치된 게임기가있습니다. 혹시 수리가능할지 몰라서 연락을 드렸습니다. 좋은하루 되세요. 감사합니다.

프로필에 있는 콘솔게임기입니다.

여기는 한국(대한민국)입니다.

⟐ Commented 8월 18, 2024 at 22:46 GMT-7

해당 스팀덱이 꺼지는 ui를 보여주면서 꺼집니다. 하지만

어느정도 시간이 지나고 자동으로 재부팅이 발생합니다.

해당 사항을 수정하기 위해 바이오스 초기화, 스팀덱 os 업데이트

데스크탑 모드의 전원 관리 설정을 변경해보았으나 문제가 발생하고 있습니다.

우선 의심가는정보로는 이어폰이 연결되어 있는 경우 해당 기기를 연결하기 위해

재부팅이 되지 않나 의심하고 있으나, 확실하지는 않습니다.

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:42 GMT-7

bios 나 데스크탑모드등 스팀을 로그인하기 전엔 정상작동합니다

그러나 로그인을하면 버튼들이 모두 먹통이 됩니다

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:21 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 29, 2026 at 2:44 GMT-7

I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 17:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 15:15 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 8월 28, 2026 at 5:39 GMT-7

I’m wondering if the same thing could be done on Switch 2.

The user manual says that, when docked, the console always activates its Bluetooth antenna. This behaviour is identical to Switch 1. However, I suspect it does not emit any signal as long as no wireless controller tries to communicate with it. This is how Switch 1 works, thus enabling to play in docked mode without any Bluetooth.

I contacted customer support at Nintendo. Twice. But the persons I got in touch with did not understand my question, and replied that I “just need to turn off Bluetooth”, which is impossible when the console is plugged to a TV (as Nintendo’s own user manual says).

A friend of mine confirmed that the setting to force wired controllers to communicate via their cable is still present on Switch 2. So the only remaining question really is to know whether the Bluetooth antenna stays silent as long as not wireless devices tries to communicate with it, exactly as Switch 1 did.

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 2:33 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 1:21 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8월 28, 2026 at 1:19 GMT-7

All went smooth, my controller works, but L3 is behaving very weird:

It clicks itself when I move the left stick on the left, also when I click it, the click input stays on for more than half a second. This half second is also the same time - more or less - the input lasts when I rotate the stick on the left, here's a video of what happens:

Right stick is flawless.

Calibration went well and all, but I really can't find the cause of this, my soldering was not the best but I've checked multiple times the pins and I don't see any bridge:

I'd really like to avoid desolder and resolder everything, are there some specific pins I should check?

⟐ Answered 8월 28, 2026 at 1:15 GMT-7

I need to know if i can simply go to any hardwear store and request a spring of that sizing, or is it something I need to find online(unfortunatly I did not see it on ifixit.com). If it is possible, I would be willing to make my own, but just don't know which material(s) would work best.

Thanks for your time :)

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 1:10 GMT-7

Now the pairing button does nothing. Using the Xbox app to go into settings and try pairing it doesn't work either. When I use a USB-C cable that works fine with my PC and controller, nothing happens. I took the Xbox apart and reseated the accessory board. When I pressed the pairing button, it flashed for a second and then stopped.

Between when it first broke and now, the Xbox sat unplugged for a few weeks. I tried updating both the Xbox and the controller, but that didn't help. The controller, as well as two others I tried, work perfectly fine with my PC over the same cable.

I also tried unplugging everything external just to test it: no fan, no disc drive, no front-panel USB, and no accessory module. Still nothing. There is no change in behavior. It won't sync over a cable or wirelessly.

When I plug the controller in, it vibrates once. If I press the Xbox button, it turns on but just keeps flashing as if it's searching for something to connect to.

Does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? $800 for a new one is a rip-off, and I really don't want to buy a used one filled with weed smoke for $400 on eBay when I bought this one new for $500 a few years ago.

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 1:00 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 27, 2026 at 19:07 GMT-7

My brother dropped his 3ds XL and hereby he broke the case of his 3ds XL. My other brother and I bought him a new case and I'm trying to put the motherboard from the old case in the new one. Since the hinge got lost, I bought a new one for him, but I can't seem to put it in the case. I tried to follow the steps from this movie (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVn_m_OI... see 10:24 ) . I did al the other steps via ifixit pictures, but I couldn't find a good picture for the hinge.

Whenever I try to open the 3ds XL, the hinge keeps popping back (see https://vimeo.com/200072013).

Does someone know if I'm doing something wrong or if I bought the hinge for another 3ds or something?

Thanks in advance by a sister who lost all hope...

⟐ Commented 8월 27, 2026 at 15:22 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 27, 2026 at 12:40 GMT-7