전원버튼 옆 하얀색 불빛만 off와 on 반복되고,

중앙 열배출구에서 7초에 한번씩 바람만 심하게 납니다.

해결방법이 있을까요?

인터넷에서 검색도중에 문의드립니다.

와이프의 예전추억이 담긴 오래전 게임기가 하나있는데 다들 고치는걸 포기해서 방치된 게임기가있습니다. 혹시 수리가능할지 몰라서 연락을 드렸습니다. 좋은하루 되세요. 감사합니다.

프로필에 있는 콘솔게임기입니다.

여기는 한국(대한민국)입니다.

⟐ Commented 8월 18, 2024 at 22:46 GMT-7

해당 스팀덱이 꺼지는 ui를 보여주면서 꺼집니다. 하지만

어느정도 시간이 지나고 자동으로 재부팅이 발생합니다.

해당 사항을 수정하기 위해 바이오스 초기화, 스팀덱 os 업데이트

데스크탑 모드의 전원 관리 설정을 변경해보았으나 문제가 발생하고 있습니다.

우선 의심가는정보로는 이어폰이 연결되어 있는 경우 해당 기기를 연결하기 위해

재부팅이 되지 않나 의심하고 있으나, 확실하지는 않습니다.

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:42 GMT-7

bios 나 데스크탑모드등 스팀을 로그인하기 전엔 정상작동합니다

그러나 로그인을하면 버튼들이 모두 먹통이 됩니다

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:21 GMT-7

I'm asking a question: where I can get the replacement 6-pin ribbon cable for my DualSense Edge? I had accidentally damaged the cable during reassembly, and I need the replacement ribbon cable real quick.

It has to be within the exact specfication:

• 6-pin
• 0.5mm pitch, which is the same as the trigger ribbon cable
• 3.8 to 4 cm in length. The reason why it has to be in this specific length is because if it's too long, it will push against the back shell of the controller, and if it's too short and the cable won't reach either the mainboard connector or the sub boards (which contains both the back buttons and the relays to the rumble motor)
• Conductors has to be on the same side.

I can't find the exact cable on e-commerce stores Aliexpress, hence why I asked for help here,

Update: Here's the picture of the cable in question:

⟐ Commented 6월 25, 2026 at 4:58 GMT-7

I have a steamdeck LCD. After not using it for a few weeks i wanted to turn it on and play with it etc, the power LED comes on and fan turns, but no display.

Ive tried some guides I found about reseting firmware by holding down "..." and volume down button, it comes on, LED flashes but no display, even after waiting a few hours for this process to complete, my next option would be to buy a docking station and test that way, dont want to spend the money if the problem lays elsewhere.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I ordered a replacement conductive film and reinstalled it, but using a control testing tool, I noticed that the R2 button was having phantom presses (it would press and release randomly).

So, I bought a new conductive film, thinking it was broken. I installed it, but I'm having the exact same problem. This time, the problem is with the Triangle and Circle buttons...

I checked the flat cable, and it's perfectly inserted and straight. Has anyone had a similar problem with their PSP? I don't know how to fix it.

@dan0

I purchased this model, which is specified for 3000 models. It's the second one I've purchased, and I've changed suppliers.

The problem specifically occurs when I glue the film onto the console. Before gluing it, I connected both flat cables, and everything works fine. Once glued, the problems begin...

The film is perfectly centered (it follows the plastic pins for positioning).

⟐ Commented 6월 25, 2026 at 2:02 GMT-7

Any help or leads here would be greatly appreciated, even just pointing me in the right direction.

⟐ Answered 6월 25, 2026 at 1:24 GMT-7

after said cleaning the disc drive no longer took games, eject button did not work either.

all i did was take the disc drive out and cleaned the rubber rollers carefully and brushed it for dust, i did not dismantle any of the parts.

i opened it up more ( carefully ) and i found a random small black spring stuck to the magnet/spindle in the disc drive, removed it and tried again, and still dead.

i have now checked every ribbon cable with a multimeter, inspected for damage and those are all fine, checked all fuses i could find and they are also all fine, also checked everything is connected properly and they all are.

the daughter board does have power, i checked with multimeter in various spots and found nothing wrong or missing, the chips on the daughter board do get warm when the console is powered on for a while.

the random spring i found seems to belong to the manual eject cogwheel, even after placing it back it still did not work, manually inserting and ejecting discs do work using said cogwheel on the side but the console does not read or react to the disc being inside.

i have checked the 3 switches on the back and they are also good and behave correctly, all plastic parts do what they are meant to do and no signs of weird behavior or damage.

there is no sound, or signs of life at all anywhere in the disc drive system.

the eject button did work again randomly after i had it turned on for 15+ minutes but it only beeped, and during my testing, repair attempts etc the "Unrecognized Disc" icon appeared twice, even though i had no disc inside, the eject button did also stop working again once and then randomly worked again after i ejected the "Unrecognized Disc" via the options menu.

i also noticed that sometimes when powering on the console after having it plugged out i need to press the power button twice, the first press just makes it beep but not power on.

i have spent so many hours on this, dismantled said disc drive 10+ times and tested it non stop, watched 7 or 8 videos about the disc drive, and read so many articles, guides and looked at so many pictures of the disc drive and console itself.

can someone please help me out?

i have more pictures and videos of all my testing, parts, and so on if needed

⟐ Commented 6월 25, 2026 at 0:44 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 24, 2026 at 22:07 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6월 24, 2026 at 20:19 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 24, 2026 at 20:17 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6월 24, 2026 at 20:10 GMT-7

I'm having an issue with my Logitech G29 (approximately 5 years old).

When I power it on, it does not perform the normal startup calibration (left → right → center). Instead, it immediately turns hard to the left (approximately -450°) and stops.

Here is what I have already tested:

• The wheel is detected correctly in Windows (joy.cpl).
• The wheel is detected correctly in Logitech G HUB.
• The steering axis is centered correctly (50%) when the wheel is physically centered.
• All buttons work normally.
• I tested it on both PC (Forza Horizon) and PS4 (Gran Turismo 7), and the same issue occurs.
• I tried different USB ports and different power outlets.
• I reinstalled G HUB.
• I downgraded G HUB to the March 2021 version and also tested the latest version.
• The firmware is up to date.
• The issue remains exactly the same.

There is no visible physical damage to the wheel.

Could this be caused by a faulty encoder wheel/position sensor, the force feedback motor, or the main PCB?

Has anyone experienced the same issue and successfully repaired it?

Thank you!

Thanks.

⟐ Answer accepted 6월 24, 2026 at 10:25 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6월 24, 2026 at 10:17 GMT-7

I use the rear USB port

⟐ Commented 6월 24, 2026 at 8:33 GMT-7

Been trying to fix this issue for a while. Whenever i start any games, the console freezes and turn it self off. If I instantly turn the console on again after a crash, the crash can occur already when booting up the console.

Ive tried

• Changed the liquid metal twice. Made sure to polish the APU to mirrorclear as it actually was quite corroded.
• Cleared all fans and power supply from dust.
• Done all recommended software settings such as hdmi device link, factory reset and more.

UART error codes:

808B00FF - SSD
B0088108 - Sonic bus
C0020303 - Main soc, APU not responding
80000009 - unexpected powerloss

PS5 Standard Edition model CFI-1216A

Please feel free to ask any questions in order to guide me in the right direction. All and any help is appreciated.

⟐ Commented 6월 24, 2026 at 8:25 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 24, 2026 at 8:25 GMT-7

The swing mechanism of my right trigger from my Razer Wolverine v3 Pro is broken, snapped in half. Anyone knows where to find a replacement?

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Edited by author 6월 24, 2026 at 6:23 GMT-7