전원버튼 옆 하얀색 불빛만 off와 on 반복되고,

중앙 열배출구에서 7초에 한번씩 바람만 심하게 납니다.

해결방법이 있을까요?

인터넷에서 검색도중에 문의드립니다.

와이프의 예전추억이 담긴 오래전 게임기가 하나있는데 다들 고치는걸 포기해서 방치된 게임기가있습니다. 혹시 수리가능할지 몰라서 연락을 드렸습니다. 좋은하루 되세요. 감사합니다.

프로필에 있는 콘솔게임기입니다.

여기는 한국(대한민국)입니다.

⟐ Commented 8월 18, 2024 at 22:46 GMT-7

해당 스팀덱이 꺼지는 ui를 보여주면서 꺼집니다. 하지만

어느정도 시간이 지나고 자동으로 재부팅이 발생합니다.

해당 사항을 수정하기 위해 바이오스 초기화, 스팀덱 os 업데이트

데스크탑 모드의 전원 관리 설정을 변경해보았으나 문제가 발생하고 있습니다.

우선 의심가는정보로는 이어폰이 연결되어 있는 경우 해당 기기를 연결하기 위해

재부팅이 되지 않나 의심하고 있으나, 확실하지는 않습니다.

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:42 GMT-7

bios 나 데스크탑모드등 스팀을 로그인하기 전엔 정상작동합니다

그러나 로그인을하면 버튼들이 모두 먹통이 됩니다

⟐ Answered 6월 17, 2024 at 8:21 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 29, 2026 at 8:45 GMT-7

My PS4 Pro suddenly desided to die on me. It is showing me the blod. Now, I have been doing a lot of testing an experimenting trying to figure out why, but I haven' t really found anything. I'll describe first what it exactly does and then what i tried.

The symptoms:

1. I plug in an HMDI and power cable
2. I press start on the console (my controllers are dead)
3. The PS4 Pro turns on with a blinking blue light and no display out.
4. Extra info: the fan spins up to a slow speed, the disk drive does eject and accept disks and turns them aswell and the HDD does spin to life
5. nothing else happens except it gets very hot to the touch above the psu (but imo this could also be cause the fan is barely spinning)
6. i turned it back of since there was no change for 25 min
7. I tried safe mode by pressing the powerbutton longer from the power off state
8. it first beeps once and turns on with the same blod, while i am still holding the powerbutton
9. after 11 or so seconds it beeps again and it turns back off. so no safe mode possible

The things i already tried:

• safe mode
• replacing the cr2032 coin cel bios battery
• different methodes of safe mode and wired controller combinations
• hdd removal and replacement
• differen power and hdmi cables
• different tv and monitor
• opening everything up for cleaning and checkup
• checking on bad capacitors or resistors, checking fuses
• checking for rust or other fysical problems
• checking for shorts on the power rails of the main motherboard
• checking the output voltages of the psu, which are 11.8V on the 2 big metal pins and 4.8V, 4.6V and a feedback 3.2V one on the little cable connector
• connecting a desktop 300W PSU to the 12V rail of the ps4 while keeping the 4.8 and 4.6v of the og psu

Whatever i try, it keeps doing the same thing. There is no change whats o ever. Also important to know, the blinking blue light stays on forever. It's not like the PS4 Pro turns off after a few seconds or minutes.

I think i have mentioned everything i tried but i might have forgot some, ill say those if i remember when someone commends.

But, my main question is the following. Since none of the results seem to indicate a specific component, like for a short on the 4.8V rail it is often the HDMI encode chip, i have no real next step available to check or test. Is it worthed to mangle the PSU wires to also use the 5V of the Deskop PSU and completely remove the PS4 PSU? Should i try to buy a new PSU for it or does someone think its not enough evidence that the psu is not the culprit? Should i just go for a second hand PS4 Pro? Most PS4 Pro's in my region go for about 180 euro's if i recall correctly, and a new PSU for 65-90 euro's. If someone says it needs to be reflowed I'd probs buy a second hand one cause the reflowing in my region is like 135 euro's without the probably mandetory diagnose of 90 euro's. I can not do a reflow myself, cause i dont have the correct equipment. Any help is appriciated!

PS.: for clarification purposes: yes, i opened the PSU and all other components to test them. Do not worry, I am an electronics engineer, i know what i am doing and am comfortable to do so. It's just that i do not know the PS4 Pro and it symptoms since i mainly design electronics, not repair them. And the repairs i do do are usually Desktop, laptops or household electronics. Also i apologise for  my bad English, its not my native language.

Hello!

This answer is an extension of the comments on the answer of @dan0 .

So, I have some extra questions related to the reflowing. I'll write down my plan followed with the questions.

I am in possession of a flir camera, an hairdryer and an hot-air-soldering station. My plan was to first heat the complete motherboard with the hairdryer to make the complete board equal in temperature. Theni would proceed with the soldering station with the biggest modus (no extra tip) of 1.3 cm wide to make a looping movement over the APU and the RAM in a fluent and as consistent as possible movement. At least, that was my plan. However, there are a few things hope to get information on regarding this:

• How am I supposed to do both the APU and RAM? They seem to be on the oposit sides of the motherboard. If I heat one side, won't the other side also get reflowed in the worst way possible, since it's upside down? Afterall, this is the motherboard with the red circle around what i presume is the RAM:

• How hot does the motherboard need to be with the hairdryer? I can measure this with the flir camera.
• How hot do I need to set the hot air soldering station?
• How fast does the hot air station need to blow: 50%, 20%, 80%, ...?
• Will this hairdryer and hot air station combination work instead of the hot air gun in the PS3 video?
• Does the APU and RAM need to be a certain temp or do I just need to set the hot air station to a certain temp and keep it on the APU for a certain total amount of time? And in either case, what are the amounts?

I like to have a lot of information so I wont break it unnecessarily. There are a lot of questions since I have never done a reflow,

Thanks already for all the info!

⟐ Commented 8월 29, 2026 at 7:41 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 29, 2026 at 2:44 GMT-7

I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 17:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 15:15 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 8월 28, 2026 at 5:39 GMT-7

I’m wondering if the same thing could be done on Switch 2.

The user manual says that, when docked, the console always activates its Bluetooth antenna. This behaviour is identical to Switch 1. However, I suspect it does not emit any signal as long as no wireless controller tries to communicate with it. This is how Switch 1 works, thus enabling to play in docked mode without any Bluetooth.

I contacted customer support at Nintendo. Twice. But the persons I got in touch with did not understand my question, and replied that I “just need to turn off Bluetooth”, which is impossible when the console is plugged to a TV (as Nintendo’s own user manual says).

A friend of mine confirmed that the setting to force wired controllers to communicate via their cable is still present on Switch 2. So the only remaining question really is to know whether the Bluetooth antenna stays silent as long as not wireless devices tries to communicate with it, exactly as Switch 1 did.

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 2:33 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 1:21 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8월 28, 2026 at 1:19 GMT-7

All went smooth, my controller works, but L3 is behaving very weird:

It clicks itself when I move the left stick on the left, also when I click it, the click input stays on for more than half a second. This half second is also the same time - more or less - the input lasts when I rotate the stick on the left, here's a video of what happens:

Right stick is flawless.

Calibration went well and all, but I really can't find the cause of this, my soldering was not the best but I've checked multiple times the pins and I don't see any bridge:

I'd really like to avoid desolder and resolder everything, are there some specific pins I should check?

⟐ Answered 8월 28, 2026 at 1:15 GMT-7

I need to know if i can simply go to any hardwear store and request a spring of that sizing, or is it something I need to find online(unfortunatly I did not see it on ifixit.com). If it is possible, I would be willing to make my own, but just don't know which material(s) would work best.

Thanks for your time :)

⟐ Commented 8월 28, 2026 at 1:10 GMT-7