전원버튼 옆 하얀색 불빛만 off와 on 반복되고,

중앙 열배출구에서 7초에 한번씩 바람만 심하게 납니다.

해결방법이 있을까요?

⟐ Commented 7월 18, 2026 at 10:30 GMT-7

I’m in a bit of a tough spot with my PS3 Slim CECH-3004A.

While disassembling it for a thermal paste change, I accidentally pulled the power ribbon cable connector by the head instead of releasing it. This resulted in the entire connector ripping off the motherboard, taking some of the solder pads with it.

From what I can observe, the PCB seems to have a standard 2-layer traces on the surface, and I can’t see any obvious internal layers for these specific traces. I’ve tried to trace them, but I’m struggling to find where they lead to create jumpers.

Could you please help me with the following?

1. Does anyone have a schematic or a high-resolution trace map for the power button connector area (specifically for the Slim model)?
2. Are there any recommended videos or guides on reconstructing lifted pads or where to bridge (jumper) the connections for this specific part?
3. Confirming if I only need to worry about surface traces or if there are via-connections I might have missed.

I have some soldering experience but reconstructing pads is new to me. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Pcb bottom layer

⟐ Edited 7월 17, 2026 at 15:20 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 17, 2026 at 5:33 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 17, 2026 at 5:33 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 17, 2026 at 5:29 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 12, 2026 at 23:56 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 12, 2026 at 23:37 GMT-7

Translation Arabic → English

The right-side joystick on my controller is faulty; it drifts to the left on its own. How can I fix it?

⟐ Edited 7월 13, 2026 at 1:16 GMT-7

I recently successfully replaced the M92T36 IC on a Nintendo Switch motherboard using a hot air station. The console now boots up and charges normally. However, I am now facing an issue with the Right Joy-Con.

When I slide the right Joy-Con into the rail, the console does not detect it as attached (it stays on wireless mode). I opened up the console again to inspect the area and noticed that the ribbon cable and the FPC connector look perfectly fine.

However, upon closer inspection of the small SMD component cluster right next to the FPC connectors, I noticed that one SMD component at the very bottom of the row is completely missing (likely blown away or knocked off accidentally during my hot air rework of the M92T36).

I have attached a micro photo of my board showing the missing component's empty pads, alongside some reference screenshots from the iFixit teardown guide for comparison.

My questions are:

1. Is this missing component a resistor (in-series) or a filter/bypass capacitor (to GND)?

2. What is the exact value/specification of this missing component (looks like a 0402 package)?

3. If it is a resistor on a data/detection line, can I safely bridge the pads with solder or a jumper wire to restore the detection functionality?

I have a multimeter, soldering iron, and hot air station ready to fix this. Any guidance or schematic insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

I've already verified the heatsink clamp (Step 19) and the main power supply screws are in place. Does anyone know if there are specific 'hidden' spots for these two screws, or if some models (like the CUH-20xx vs CUH-21xx) have extra holes that should remain empty?

⟐ Commented 7월 09, 2026 at 9:06 GMT-7

Hi

I managed to release the magic smoke out of my ps5. I can't remember exactly what happened since it was a while ago. Anyway it now has the powers on for two seconds with blue light then switches off fault.

I somehow managed to trace the fault to the area circled in red. All stages but the last two are shorted. I checked in diode mode across each of the capacitors, everyone of them except the last two (bottom) are shorted.

My plan was to remove them one by one and see if the short on each of them disappears. I am hoping it's not the smd ic next to the caps because thats beyond my skill set.

Anyway I can't seem to desolder the cap off. I managed to get one side off but the otherside won't budge. I don't want to use hot air because am inexperienced and there are very very tiny smd components on the other side. What am I doing wrong?

What is this area for anyway?

⟐ Commented 7월 05, 2026 at 17:37 GMT-7

⟐ Edited by author 7월 04, 2026 at 6:48 GMT-7

Steamdeck has been feeling a little unresponsive lately then after I left it for a bit (picked up Elden rings finally) I noticed the entire lefts side was completely dead. All buttons, joystick, triggers, trackpad ect. I followed all the software resets to make sure then followed a guide here hoping that if I opened it up it would be a simple disconnect ribbon. As seen in the attached picture the C-L connector appears to have short circuited or something, I am not a tech savvy person and am unclear how to move forward. Would this require a while board replacement or something bigger, any advice on how to move forward or what I could do would be greatly appreciated!