⟐ Answered 4월 30, 2021 at 8:00 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 1월 27, 2021 at 17:07 GMT-7

I just downloaded the manual and that says overload, which is what I thought it was. BUT, it does this on ALL loads regardless of size. It’s been doing this a few months and when I reposition, I set Drain and Spin and that works.

HOWEVER I only just this week realized it’s NOT been washing my clothes! After 10 minutes, the timer display jumps from say 41 minutes to 4 or 5 minutes, complets the remaining minutes displayed, then drains and THEN displays oL.

I’ve checked the drain hose, but I saw someone else’s answer saying something about the basket and floating. I am quarantining alone and would REALLY appreciate detailed help on how I might check this floating basket theory or other options!

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Answer edited 1월 19, 2021 at 20:41 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 1월 09, 2021 at 16:25 GMT-7

when put on a wash cycle, it will fill and drain repeatedly and won't agitate. when put on a spin cycle, it will spin.

There's no way it's the lid switch, because the washer won't start to fill if the lid isn't closed, and it fills when the lid is closed.

⟐ Answered 12월 23, 2020 at 8:11 GMT-7

I’ve taken to running the hot / cold water cycle first for my whites and then switching to cold / cold for the colors. There’s no further leaking when running the cold / cold.

There’s no leaking at the water faucet connections.

I’d rather not replace the unit if it’s just a matter of changing out a hose. All the guides I’ve seen thus far aren’t specific about the hot water only problem.

Thanks!

⟐ Answer accepted 10월 23, 2020 at 13:34 GMT-7

Everthing else is fine,

Except laundry doesn't get completely clean

⟐ Answer edited 1월 14, 2021 at 15:28 GMT-7

It will wash and drain it just won’t spin

⟐ Edited 1월 15, 2021 at 11:41 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 1월 15, 2021 at 10:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 10월 16, 2020 at 20:03 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 10월 16, 2020 at 20:03 GMT-7

I replaced the shifter with a new part. But I continue to have the same problem.

I removed the basket and double checked everything with the pump and I see no coins, lost socks, etc. But I continue to have the same problem.

At this point, I continue to have the F7E1 error.

Also, I am UNABLE to perform the tachometer verification test as the basket does NOT spin freely.

Also, I am UNABLE to complete the calibration test; after approximately 2 minutes of test, I get a flashing lid lock error.

I confirmed that the motor works, and that the belt is in good shape.

I confirmed that the bottom of the motor turns and then doesn’t turn when I manually move the shifter from one position to the other position.

Since I’ve tried a new shifter, and since I’ve removed the basket to ensure I don’t have problems from the top, I’m wondering:

1) how do I diagnose the problem in the drive from the bottom? What’s keeping the basket from spinning freely? (or should it not spin? - I saw older posts suggesting that the basket doesn’t spin freely unless the top is locked, but then I don’t understand how one could manually spin the basket to perform the tachometer verification?)

2) why am I unable to perform the tachometer verification test?

3) why am I unable to complete the calibration test?

Thanks, in advance, for any advice you may have. Respectfully,

⟐ Answer accepted 10월 02, 2020 at 19:45 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 9월 30, 2020 at 19:16 GMT-7

What is happening is that when the water drains the initial push of water into the drain pipe overflows it. After the first few seconds it stops doing it. Washer is next to an outside wall with the cleanout just outside. We have verified that the drain pipe and swewer pipe is clear (again just during the initial draining it overflows.

It’s like the drain pipe needs to be primed or something. Once flowing its ok.

⟐ Answer edited 1월 13, 2021 at 14:36 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 9월 04, 2020 at 8:04 GMT-7

My parents’ Kenmore Model 110 (80 series) washing machine won’t stop filling the basin with water. I unplugged it and the water continued to run. Is this a defective water inlet valve or could it be something else, like the water level switch. I read on partselect.com about it/them.

I disconnected the washing machine completely, pulled it out (ripping the linoleum), and looked at the back panel — there are a few screws at the bottom, a screw near the hoses, a some plastic clips here and there. I’m stuck on how to proceed. How do I remove the back panel (assuming it can be removed) or do I remove the front to access?

I have tools to do the job (and a li’l bit of know how) but cannot find my particular answer on removal of panel(s) for this Model 110 (80 series).

Also, trustworthy and competent handymen are far and few since the coal mines closed here in West Virginia. So, if I can do it, I’ll do it myself.

Thanks,

Steve

⟐ Answer edited 1월 13, 2021 at 14:37 GMT-7

Have just replaced the water pressure control switch but that didn't fix issue.

Water fills to level and begins agitation. Washer DOES NOT DRAIN before rinse cycle, instead just fills a second time and causes the washer to overflow.

If i manually set it to spin, it does spin and drain, so I know that works... just can't figure out why it doesn't do it on its own.

⟐ Answer edited 1월 13, 2021 at 14:37 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 5월 21, 2020 at 1:59 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 1월 15, 2021 at 10:53 GMT-7

Model # 110.20852990

⟐ Comment deleted 2월 03, 2020 at 8:37 GMT-7