화면은 나오는데 더 이상 진행되지 않습니다.

방금 보드를 분리하여 memory를 완전히 분리한 뒤 테스트 해봐도

같은 증상 입니다.

어떤 문제가 있는 것일까요?

⟐ Commented 5월 05, 2022 at 22:44 GMT-7

Hello. I am John Schindler.

I replaced the battery of my MacBook Pro today, but a 'service recommended' message appears.

In the Coconut Battery program, the battery life is 100% and there are no problems.

Is there any way to solve the symptom of this problem?

Korean

안녕하세요. 저는 존쉰들러입니다.

오늘 맥북프로 배터리를 자가교체를 했지만, '서비스 권장됨' 안내표시가 뜹니다.

코코넛 배터리 프로그램에서 배터리 수명이 100%이고 별 문제가 없어보입니다.

이 문제의 현상을 해결할 수 있는 방법이 있습니까?

image

I replaced the power supply but no luck (ebay working pull). I am considering replacing the power button next.

It is a 27" 3.4 i7 with 32gb ram and 2gb Vram. Nothing happens when the start button is pressed. It stopped working in February. There were a few crashing that seemed to be related to connecting to wifi before it stopped working.

▪︎are start buttons known for going out?

I'm going to pull the drive and put it in a laptop for the time being: Look at crash report.

Case is still open: monitor is attached but only taped close.

Also if this does start can it run off an external monitor without the screen attached?

It might be easier to work on that way.

Thanks for any help.

Here’s the full history:

I spilled coffee on it. I took it to a shop and they told me they couldn’t fix it. After about a week I opened it up myself and left it open to dry for another week. Now, in about week three, I started putting it back together — and to my surprise it turned on.

So it’s partially alive, but I have a few related issues I’m trying to sort out:

When I first booted it during reassembly — before screwing the trackpad bracket down — the trackpad worked and I could move the cursor and check the battery percentage. After I screwed everything down and rebooted, the cursor stopped moving and hasn’t come back.

The battery connector is plugged in and locked with its metal locking arm, so that one seems fine. The connector giving me trouble is a small board-to-board (mezzanine) connector near the battery connector — I believe it’s the keyboard/trackpad flex. It has no ribbon and no latch; the two halves just press together. When I press it down it clicks and holds for a few seconds, then pops back undone. I have not used any glue.

On power: the machine shows one fixed battery percentage that never changes, and it shuts off immediately the moment I unplug the charger. It only runs while plugged in.

What I’ve tried so far:

• Reseating that board-to-board connector multiple times

• Confirmed the battery connector is seated and locked

• Verified I haven’t damaged the battery connector’s locking arm

What I’m trying to figure out:

1. Why that board-to-board connector won’t stay mated — alignment, a bent/cracked contact from the spill, tension from the bracket/screws pulling the flex, or corrosion damage?

2. Whether the “shuts off when unplugged / stuck percentage” means the battery is dead/failed, or something related to the spill.

3. Whether tightening the trackpad down is what’s unseating the connector, and how to get it to snap and hold.

Given the coffee spill, I’m also wondering if I should be looking for corrosion on these connectors or the board.

Details:

• Model: MacBook Air M1, A2337 (EMC 3598), Late 2020

• History: coffee spill → shop declined repair → dried open ~2 weeks → reassembling in week 3, powers on

• Battery connector: seated and locked

• Problem connector: keyboard/trackpad board-to-board (mezzanine) connector, won’t stay mated

I can post close-up photos of the connectors and board on request. Any guidance appreciated.

MacBook Pro Retina

All Retina screen cables with hinges are compatible.

A1425 2012L 13" Retina could be tested with 13" or 15" 2013E Display. Unfortunately, 2013/13" Display has different Camera connector.
For testing 13 and 15 inch screens of the same generation are compatible
2012-E2013 are fully compatible
L2013-2014 are fully compatible
2015 is unique

I really need to know if this display is good before we attempt a repair as otherwise it is pointless to fix ...... @danj

⟐ Edited by author 7월 18, 2026 at 17:57 GMT-7

We thought the issue was a bad SMC, We replaced the SMC, Connected the charger, Brief fan spin, no chime or boot. No water damage, clean board Technician cannot find any shorts. The issue remains even with no KB connected. We have reset & programmed the SMC with SMC tools / Unable to reset PRAM etc...... Only with SHIFT+OPT+Power I got it to boot into the system, fan at normal speeds, power button does shut it down....But the system Prefs wont load and it is dead slow. I have used 2 new keyboards shells and 2 good TP cables yet still the same, and with a fresh Monterey installed drive. Diagnostics no issues found. The KB & TP are functioning fine (Except to power up). In recovery mode the terminal sudo nvram -c command is not found. Firmware password is off. @danj @oldturkey03 What can be our issue here?

System Firmware 489.0.0.0.0 correct for Monterey.

SMC Version 2.27f2

No Audio devices are detected with 2 I/O boards, which maybe our issue? Although it did chime once before.... Charges battery OK .....I eventually have successfully clean installed a copy of Monterey on the unit but everything is still the same.... At least I thought so but it has stuck on 12 minutes remaining for quite some time now, I will have a sleep and see if it finished when I wake up.... And as expected it is stuck at under a minute.....

⟐ Edited by author 7월 18, 2026 at 0:36 GMT-7

My 18 month old, MBP M4 Pro screen died. Took it to the ""Genius Bar"" to be told I had a faulty display!! Apparently this is quite a common fault with this model, my "genius" telling me he alone repairs at least four a day!!!!! If you're using this as intended and on a live event or important gig it may be worth having a spare USB C display to get you out of trouble (Command +F1 to switch).

The really annoying thing about the repair was that they wouldn't work on it unless it used the latest iteration of Mac OS, and threatened to wipe my hard drive before basically undoing some nuts and bolts and cables to replace the screen. I had to upgrade there and then to save the hassle of a later install from Time Machine.

This would've cost £623 to fix (I had AppleCare) BUT as I'm in the UK this was considered a 'Consumer Law Repair' which is up to 6 years in this country and also free.

⟐ Commented 7월 13, 2026 at 11:14 GMT-7

I have a 2" vertical strip on the left side of my screen that all of a sudden turned darker than the rest of my screen. It's tinted darker. I can still see the screen, but it flickers some, and at certain times I can vaguely see the browser's bookmark bar in the tinted section at the top. I can mirror the screen onto my TV, and the tinted strip isn't there. I did some research and think it may be the display cable. Does anyone have a repair guide for something like this?

⟐ Edited by author 7월 12, 2026 at 17:16 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 11, 2026 at 5:21 GMT-7

Mac was inside of suitcase and it was inside of a bag.

Mac boots up,I can hear the chime,but the screen is totally black,not even “light” black. Caps lock light doesn’t work.

I tried SMC,PRAM reset, didn’t work.

Reconnecting screen display by unplugging those two things didn’t work. I used this video

Reconnecting battery didn’t work.

I also tried SMC,PRAM reset while the battery was disconnected and Mac was getting energy from the charger. Didn’t work. I used that video.

What else can I do before changing the screen?I don’t want to swap screen cause it’s expensive.

⟐ Commented 7월 01, 2026 at 22:25 GMT-7

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented 6월 29, 2026 at 5:05 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 28, 2026 at 13:44 GMT-7

The rear of the KB's cable on the older 2010/11 models is striped, 2013-17 is black. 2012 I believe can use the 2013-17 keyboards.

MacBook Air 13" (Mid 2011-Early 2015) Keyboard

⟐ Edited by author 6월 20, 2026 at 16:18 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 13, 2026 at 2:40 GMT-7

The next day it would no longer power on.

Using a USB-C power meter, it only draws 5.05V at 0.08A and never negotiates a higher voltage.

I have already tried:

Different chargers and cables

Holding the power button

Leaving it plugged in for several hours

Is there anything else I can try before considering motherboard repair?

⟐ Commented 6월 11, 2026 at 15:45 GMT-7

I assume the battery is dead and the charging circuit doesn't want to charge it due to it being critically low but im looking for alternative answers instead of opening it up for now

⟐ Edited by author 6월 05, 2026 at 18:46 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 03, 2026 at 6:12 GMT-7