Hello. I am John Schindler.

I replaced the battery of my MacBook Pro today, but a 'service recommended' message appears.

In the Coconut Battery program, the battery life is 100% and there are no problems.

Is there any way to solve the symptom of this problem?

Korean

안녕하세요. 저는 존쉰들러입니다.

오늘 맥북프로 배터리를 자가교체를 했지만, '서비스 권장됨' 안내표시가 뜹니다.

코코넛 배터리 프로그램에서 배터리 수명이 100%이고 별 문제가 없어보입니다.

이 문제의 현상을 해결할 수 있는 방법이 있습니까?

image

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Commented 5월 16, 2026 at 11:56 GMT-7

I’m facing a frustrating issue with my MacBook Pro M4 (purchased Feb 2025, AppleCare expired) and wanted to see if anyone has encountered this or found a workaround.

Whenever I open the lid—especially after it has been idle—the system behaves as if it’s under extreme thermal stress. It forces itself into sleep mode repeatedly (around 3 to 7 times in a row) before finally stabilizing and going back to normal.

There is no actual overheating, no high CPU usage, and no excessive fan noise.

After digging into the diagnostics, I managed to isolate the root cause. A specific thermal sensor, TDv (appearing as TD23 in the SMC logs), is stuck giving a false, static reading of 81 degree celsius. This erroneous spike is clearly causing the system to panic and force immediate sleep states to protect the hardware.

A factory reset did not change anything, as the issue is driven by this faulty sensor reading. I've attached my powermetrics logs and the diagnostic dump below.

Has anyone dealt with a single rogue sensor failing like this on an Apple Silicon Mac? Is there any known software method or tool to ignore/override a specific sensor input before I resort to a hardware repair?

Any insight would be highly appreciated.

Plaintext

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Moderate

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Moderate

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Nominal

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Heavy

**** Thermal pressure ****
Current pressure level: Sleeping

TD23 , 81.000961
TDVx , 81.000961
ftlx , 81.000252

⟐ Commented 5월 16, 2026 at 9:11 GMT-7

Recently I bought a1707 macbook with screen flex cable problem and bios locked

I thought I could fix it but I failed (the flex cable is cutted) plus I tried to fix bios with ch341 but I guess this failed too (ic not responding error)

But after reassemble macbook it's not turning on

Did this repair while battery cable is unplugged so think is not shorted

USB meter says 19.6v 10~20w 0.5~1a and no keyboard or track pad respond or light

Plus I assume display will not work bc of cutted flex cable

Tried:smc reset/unplug charger and press power button for 10sec and plug/nvram reset

If have any kind of solution pls tell me

Thank you for reading long text :)

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 16, 2026 at 4:58 GMT-7

But here is the question: without microsolder experience/ability, is there something else I can do than pay $200+ for a reflow job? For example, one microsolder tech recommended that I pop the logic board (all by itself, disassembled from the laptop) in an oven at 450 degrees for 5 minutes. If that’s safe to do, I’d much prefer that to a $200 repair, as long as I don’t risk destroying the whole thing.

You microsolder wizards out there, what would you recommend? Or where would you recommend that can do the repair for cheap? I’ve already replaced the laptop, so now I’m just repairing to resell.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented 5월 15, 2026 at 17:58 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 15, 2026 at 17:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 5월 14, 2026 at 6:22 GMT-7

I noticed that every time I boot up now the lock icon shows up on the screen.

I did some research and found out it is a EFI / Firmware locked. I’m not sure exactly which one is the proper term or if both mean the same thing. Anyways, I have a spare MacBook Pro, same year, same kind of model and was wondering if i could just pull out the logic board from my spare system and put it into the system which is locked?

Would this eliminate my problem and have the ability to use my device? I really hope I can get an actual answer and not some sad person telling me its stolen and to give it back.

Thats not the purpose of this site now is it?

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 14, 2026 at 0:38 GMT-7

I plug it to this 2013 2013 A1502 and it is charging but there is no light showing.

I tried with other chargers and it is the same, rarely getting a light that stays on.

SMC & PRAM resets, Pins are nice and clean, chargers not getting hot, laptop has a new battery with 2 cycles, Basically the laptop is charging normally but there is just no light on the charger. What goes? Going bad charging board? I guess I need to swap one over and see if that made any difference? It seems to charge for a minute or 2 at no more than 10w before it displays connected but 0w charging.

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 12, 2026 at 5:56 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 5월 11, 2026 at 14:47 GMT-7

I appreciate the comments here; thank you! What actually worked: I downloaded a copy of catalina .dmg and used Balena Etcher on linux to burn it to a thumbdrive and booted the thumb drive by holding the Option button while powering up. I was then able to launch the terminal from the installer's menu bar. From the terminal, I was then able to run: nvram AutoBoot=%00 and this disabled that behavior (power on when power cable connected / disconnected). This command is only available in the MacOS image, so this was the missing step to be able to get access to it. Thank you!

⟐ Edited by author 5월 11, 2026 at 7:48 GMT-7

I have MacBook Pro M4 A3112.(Nov'24). this is my first Macbook.

Initially display screen had some damage, so got the screen replaced and i notice both Wifi and Bluetooth has stopped working.

I took back to the repair guy who helped to replace the screen, but he has no clue why Wifi and Bluetooth are not working.

please find the attached the screenshots and photos I took as part of initial diagnosis I could do.

Please advise, what could be the issue and how to resolve this ?

Thanks

RB

Hi @danj

I did reformat whole Macbook and reinstalled OS. Seems issue still persists.

I connected the MacBook to my router using Rj45 cable with the help of connector so I can access wired network connection to internet.

However I tried to do offline diagnostic and I got the error CNW001 . Have attached screenshot.

Power charger wasn't connected to macbook when I ran the diagnostic so the error PPP020 can be ignored in the image here, as I see the MacBook is working fine when charger is connected.

Let me know what option i have to resolve this CNW001 error.

I am using wired connection for Internet for now, not a substantial solution.

Thanks

RB

I used an Ethernet cable and was able to connect to internet.

The pic was taken with ethernet cable on !

⟐ Commented 5월 10, 2026 at 18:25 GMT-7

This laptop worked flawlessly up till Feb 2021, when the battery died —seven years, kudos for the quality control! I had iFixit's for a good reputation brand and decided to buy a replacement battery to extend my machine's life. Well, the new battery worked as expected, but died suddenly on Sep 2023, just 2 ½ years after being installed.

Since I still had use for this laptop, I decided to buy another replacement from iFixit on Oct 2023. This battery lasted exactly the same as the first one: it died on me last month (Apr 2026).

So, I'm wondering if it's just me or these items last less than half —almost a third— as an original Apple battery. If I had known, I would have taken the laptop to the original service center for repair. Anyone from iFixit here to answer my question? Because I'm about to buy from another provider, since my two purchases didn't live up to expectations.

⟐ Answer edited 5월 14, 2026 at 17:44 GMT-7

Basically, is my Anti-glare coating worth removing and if it is, which method is least likely to cause damage? Also, is image quality affected other than the anti glare properties if I were to remove the coating? Like a loss in color accuracy or something like that.

UPDATE

I used some Kirkland signature baby wipes to remove the layer but it was taking forever. I used Clorox wipes and that seemed to work too. Overall took about 30-45 minutes to remove the majority and about more than an hour to get it all off completely. To make sure it’s completely off use a flashlight and point it at the screen.

⟐ Commented 5월 09, 2026 at 20:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 5월 08, 2026 at 0:05 GMT-7

I am looking for a quick, viable solution to the Apple "StainGate" issue, one that does not take hours. We are looking for an in-house solution that can remove the coating "assembly line" style while the screen is left in place.

I have read through various iFixit forums, but am looking for a faster, easy to repeat process.

Issue: When using certain cleaners, the anti-glare coating becomes permanently "blotched". Apple is aware of this issue (see first link below) and has extended the warranty on the laptops with this issue, however this is not a solution for us (many of the units fall out of this extended warranty).

The other solutions we have seen are people removing the blotched antiglare coating with metal polish, however, when we tried this solution it took repeated applications and was an extremely slow process (see our tech note below). We even tried it with a hand held buffer as well as various solvents.

This was from our tech:

The process take a lot of time. Quite tiring

I tried it on my Macbook (2014 Retina 13") Though it does work (I used rubbing alcohol and Peek like the video) some parts came of really slow.. took dozens and dozens of applications, after an hour or so maybe 15% was done. Next day I continued, but this time I pre-wiped the screen with Bison Magic Wipes (for paint removal) after another hour doing Wipes->Peek rubbing->Ethanol cleaning the whole screen was smooth as a baby butt :-) The magic wipes really loosened the coating. Also while doing it the screen looks terrible.. just be patient and after a few hours it will look great!

And that’s just for one unit…

See: Apple Extends Free Repairs of Anti-Reflective Coating on Select MacBook and MacBook Pro Models

One person said what worked best for them was Peek Metal Polish (actually also polishes acrylic, etc) followed by rubbing alcohol for removing the anti-glare coasting. Also PolyWatch for the fine screen scratches. But again, these processes were too time intensive.

And:

• YouTube: MacBook Retina Screen Anti-Glare Coating Removal Cleaning Scratch Stain Problem Fix
• YouTube: Macbook Pro Screen Staingate Problem - Removing the Oleophobic Coating

Any input would be welcomed.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented 5월 06, 2026 at 8:45 GMT-7

I suspect the issue may be the battery ribbon cable, which I’ve already ordered, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this or knows what the problem might be.

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented 5월 05, 2026 at 5:06 GMT-7

I’ve searched everywhere: online stores, marketplaces, spare parts sites… nothing reliable, nothing in stock, nothing that I can actually trust.

This tiny cable is literally the only thing stopping me from fixing my MacBook. Without it, the device is useless. I really don’t want to replace the whole machine over something like this.

Does anyone here know where I can find this part?
Even used or refurbished would be totally fine at this point.

Any help would seriously mean a lot.

⟐ Answer edited 5월 05, 2026 at 1:50 GMT-7

Im not getting any sound from the speakers either but if I connect and bluetooth accessories it works straight away. The fans are also always on high speed.

Please help any solution is highly appreciated.

⟐ Commented 5월 04, 2026 at 14:46 GMT-7

The widgets are stored within /System/Library/CoreServicesBut Notes & Reminders are not there anymore (Maybe some others also have gone).

Unable to set weather location

Bluetooth Sharing has gone, but Bluetooth is on as I use a Magic Mouse II without any issues.

I also CANNOT change 'Open with default app' for example .mp3 or .mp4 opens with either Books, Music, Audacity, QT Player (All are different), even when I change to VLC as it always was with before via various methods NONE are changed so they all open with my preferred app. No matter what I try nothing seems to change anything, GET INFO (Set Default), Right Click (Open with other...) or even with App Cleaner app to set default app by extension etc....

This is really bugging me as I do not want to perform a complete clean install as I have a dual boot system and many files. We can rule out using Time Machine as that maybe will not solve it as from experience TM might still bring over the corrupted settings.... Is there a preferences file that I can delete or restore if so which one? Otherwise, system is running fine, these are my only issues noticed so far since a week or so. I have no dodgy software installed, nothing recently installed, no updates have been done (None to do anyway as all is up to date)..... I have booted into safe mode, rebooted as normal, but it has made no difference. Mystified on this as it is something I am usually good at fixing.

I found this link about widgets but no joy .

⟐ Answered 5월 04, 2026 at 8:41 GMT-7