Hello. I am John Schindler.

I replaced the battery of my MacBook Pro today, but a 'service recommended' message appears.

In the Coconut Battery program, the battery life is 100% and there are no problems.

Is there any way to solve the symptom of this problem?

Korean

안녕하세요. 저는 존쉰들러입니다.

오늘 맥북프로 배터리를 자가교체를 했지만, '서비스 권장됨' 안내표시가 뜹니다.

코코넛 배터리 프로그램에서 배터리 수명이 100%이고 별 문제가 없어보입니다.

이 문제의 현상을 해결할 수 있는 방법이 있습니까?

image

video of issue

Screen

Display cables

Or logic board issues

⟐ Answer edited 7월 01, 2026 at 10:08 GMT-7

These Macbooks are now around 4-5 years so it's not a bad idea to replace the thermal paste.

They're not obsolute so there will still be users who can benefit from a guide.

Update:

So I was able to open the MacBook and disassemble the motherboard with the video.

Since I'm comfortable around electronics (this isn't my first time opening up a MacBook, laptop, or even a smartphone), I did choose to replace the thermal paste on the cpu and gpu.

And honestly, after four years of service... Kind of disappointed about the original paste. Dan said that paste will last longer now due to improvements, but the original paste was crumbly as hell. Furthermore I noticed small blank spots on the cpu and it's heatsink, so not very good spread. The gpu did have a good spread. They definitely were generous with the paste on the gpu, because its surroundings were covered with paste too.

Cleaning wasn't difficult, as I said the paste was in a very crumbly state.

After cleaning I gave the copper plates of the heatsink and the cpu and gpu some time to evaporate the alcohol.

I used Noctua NT-H2 and used the "X" to spread the paste on both cpu and gpu.

The only annoying experience was to place back the motherboard in the case. I needed multiple attempts because there was always some small connector/ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Ugh! After playing like an octopus for a while, I was able to place the motherboard back and with all connectors/ribbon cables out on top of it.

It's do-able but only for people who have a steady hand and... most of all... lots and lots of patience. Take your time. Take some breaks if you get tired or frustrated because the moment that you attempt to work a bit faster or anything like that... something will go wrong. I 100% guarantee that.

I made only one mistake. The connector cable from the left fan is incredibely fragile due to its L-shape (that's what I think). In trying to get the L-shape cable from underneath the board to the top on the board, I got a small tear in the ribbon cable. This fan no longer works. We learn from our mistakes. Should've taped the connector on top of the fan, I wouldn't had an issue to "fish" for the cable since it can't get trapped underneath the board that way. Already ordered a replacement fan.

The temperatures are amazing though. In idle I went from 60-63° to 46-51°. The one remaining fan is also a lot quieter. I'm not going to claim this huge difference to the new paste though. There was so much built up dust in the MacBook... I was genuinely surprised that the MacBook didn't have much higher temps in idle. Both fans were completly covered up in thick dust, and the outlets on both fans same thing. How it managed to get some kind of airflow through those thick dust is a mystery to me.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result. Yes, I did damage one fan connector, but one can only learn with making mishaps.

⟐ Commented 6월 30, 2026 at 9:51 GMT-7

This is how it looks

⟐ Commented 6월 30, 2026 at 5:00 GMT-7

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Commented 6월 29, 2026 at 17:45 GMT-7

I’m looking for recommendations for good Apple repair shops experienced in microsoldering on Mac Book Pro logic boards.

⟐ Commented 6월 29, 2026 at 5:05 GMT-7

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered 6월 28, 2026 at 16:21 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 28, 2026 at 13:44 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 27, 2026 at 19:06 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6월 27, 2026 at 13:24 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6월 26, 2026 at 18:05 GMT-7

I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a serious issue.

About a week ago, I purchased a complete display assembly from iFixit for my 16-inch MacBook Pro (Late 2023) and followed the repair guide to replace the screen. The repair appeared to be successful. The MacBook powered on normally and I used it daily for about a week without any problems.

This morning, I initiated a macOS Tahoe update. During or after the update process, the computer became completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No signs of life at all.
• Screen remains black.
• No startup chime.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No response when opening the lid.
• No response when holding the power button for 10+ seconds.
• No visible indication that the machine is charging.

My biggest concern is that I do not have a recent backup of my data.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced a MacBook Pro becoming completely unresponsive after a macOS Tahoe update?
2. Could this be related to the display assembly replacement, even though the computer worked perfectly for a week afterward?
3. Are there any recovery steps I should try before opening the machine again?
4. Is there a way to revive the system using DFU Restore or DFU Revive, and if so, would that preserve my data?
5. If the logic board has failed, what are my options for recovering the data stored on the internal SSD?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid making the situation worse and would like to preserve my data if possible.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented 6월 26, 2026 at 14:22 GMT-7

I recently picked up a 2009 MacBook Pro 15”. El Capitan is telling me to replace the battery now. Although the battery is at 100 percent and only has 257 cycles on it. Is it really a battery issue for why the MacBook is shutting down after a few seconds (sometimes minutes) without it plugged in? Or is it something else? I also gave a third party application saying that the battery has about 4 minutes left(and going up for some reason), 10.8 years old, the original max is 6500 mAH, the current max is 65035 mAH, and the current charge is 65035 mAH. This app has never done this for me, so I’m not sure what’s wrong.

⟐ Answered 6월 26, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

I have a MacBook Pro 14-inch 2021 (A2442, M1 Pro) and I want to improve cooling with the easiest/safest method possible.

I don’t want to do a full logic board removal right now if I can avoid it. I’m planning the “add thermal pads” mod — placing high-conductivity thermal pads on top of the metal heatsink/radiator so heat transfers better to the aluminum bottom case (turning the whole bottom into an extra passive heatsink).

I’ve watched some of Your videos and others but there is not a video for my question (what i want).

My questions:

1.  For the easier bottom-case-only version, is 1.5mm or 2mm thick high W/mK pads (Thermalright / Gelid / Arctic style) the best choice? What size sheet should I get and where exactly on the heatsink should I place the pieces?

2.  I will leave Apple’s original grey paste on the main SoC and the black thermal gel (TCRS Carbon Black) on the RAM chips completely alone. I dont wanna touch them i want to add more too cool it down.

4.  What kind of real-world gains have people seen on the 14” M1 Pro specifically (temps, fan noise, sustained performance)?

5.  If the pad mod isn’t enough later, is the full heat sink replacement guide the right next step, and do you recommend Noctua NT-H2 or Arctic MX-6?

I will make pictures when i do this and share it with you here so people to know excactly what to do.

I want to share my exp. With the chat bot i think i have all answers to my questions i have what i need but you people can read as well and maybe my questions can help.

This is a conversation with AI asking question of how to apply thermal pads with Pics. And extra questions.

Venelin Valkanov

https://fixbot.ifixit.com/chat/f9a4e89e-...

Any ideas?

⟐ Answered 6월 25, 2026 at 6:30 GMT-7

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Answer accepted 6월 22, 2026 at 7:01 GMT-7

The issue:

1. With the new battery, the MagSafe light stays green. System Information sees the battery at 33% (2308mAh) but shows 0 Amperage and "Not Charging."

2. If I unplug the MagSafe, the laptop immediately shuts off.

3. I reinstalled the old (bulging) battery to test. It shows 100% (4322mAh) and "Fully Charged," but the laptop still shuts off immediately if the power cord is disconnected.

4. CRITICAL FINDING: The battery indicator button (on the left side) ONLY works when the MagSafe is plugged in. When plugged in, it shows 3 LEDs (consistent with 33%). When unplugged, the indicator button does nothing.

5. I have already:

- Reset the SMC and NVRAM/PRAM multiple times.

- Verified I am using an 85W MagSafe adapter.

- Reseated the battery connector and inspected the logic board pins.

- Ran Disk Utility First Aid.

Is it possible the original bulging battery blew a current-sensing resistor or a MOSFET on the logic board? What specific components should I test with a multimeter to diagnose why the battery rail is not being energized?

Here is an image (maybe) of the coconut app and the system report.

Here is an image of the system report with the bad battery

=== ===

⟐ Answered 6월 19, 2026 at 18:50 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 6월 19, 2026 at 13:15 GMT-7

I have some display assembly's here that are not labeled for which model they were from ...... is there a small marking on the hinges or something that I can go by to ID which is which? There are no stickers or numbers I can cross check present. I am fearful to just try them on different models and see what works in case their incompatibility will cause some harm..... I cannot find any part numbers anywhere. Late 2013 and Mid 2014 displays (661-8153, 2015 is (661-02360). Under the clutch cover and removing the antenna, still there is nothing that I see that is recognizable in google to suggest a model year.... stumped.

⟐ Commented 6월 19, 2026 at 7:45 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 6월 19, 2026 at 6:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 6월 19, 2026 at 4:36 GMT-7