Hello. I am John Schindler.

I replaced the battery of my MacBook Pro today, but a 'service recommended' message appears.

In the Coconut Battery program, the battery life is 100% and there are no problems.

Is there any way to solve the symptom of this problem?

Korean

안녕하세요. 저는 존쉰들러입니다.

오늘 맥북프로 배터리를 자가교체를 했지만, '서비스 권장됨' 안내표시가 뜹니다.

코코넛 배터리 프로그램에서 배터리 수명이 100%이고 별 문제가 없어보입니다.

이 문제의 현상을 해결할 수 있는 방법이 있습니까?

image

I swapped over the keyboard / TP cable 4x with new parts

Changed 3x complete keyboard assemblies (All with new keyboards)

Using new track pads / Clean install Monterey 12.7.6 and was able to complete setup and all seemed OK but I noticed the keyboard response was delayed...... now next to nothing going on when I reboot and try to login.

Keyboard isn't responding and when it does it is 5 seconds late in displaying 'some' keys. Cables are seated and latched correctly etc. Connector looks clean (I have cleaned it out, no dirt and dust under the microscope) I have even put the SSD into another unit to check the OS, ALL fine!. This is driving me nuts.

Must be a board issue..... but it is working fine other that the KB issue.

It is 100% NOT in the dreaded CPU safe mode state. Any ideas?

UPDATE: It magically fixed itself.

⟐ Commented 5월 07, 2026 at 6:02 GMT-7

I am looking for a quick, viable solution to the Apple "StainGate" issue, one that does not take hours. We are looking for an in-house solution that can remove the coating "assembly line" style while the screen is left in place.

I have read through various iFixit forums, but am looking for a faster, easy to repeat process.

Issue: When using certain cleaners, the anti-glare coating becomes permanently "blotched". Apple is aware of this issue (see first link below) and has extended the warranty on the laptops with this issue, however this is not a solution for us (many of the units fall out of this extended warranty).

The other solutions we have seen are people removing the blotched antiglare coating with metal polish, however, when we tried this solution it took repeated applications and was an extremely slow process (see our tech note below). We even tried it with a hand held buffer as well as various solvents.

This was from our tech:

The process take a lot of time. Quite tiring

I tried it on my Macbook (2014 Retina 13") Though it does work (I used rubbing alcohol and Peek like the video) some parts came of really slow.. took dozens and dozens of applications, after an hour or so maybe 15% was done. Next day I continued, but this time I pre-wiped the screen with Bison Magic Wipes (for paint removal) after another hour doing Wipes->Peek rubbing->Ethanol cleaning the whole screen was smooth as a baby butt :-) The magic wipes really loosened the coating. Also while doing it the screen looks terrible.. just be patient and after a few hours it will look great!

And that’s just for one unit…

See: Apple Extends Free Repairs of Anti-Reflective Coating on Select MacBook and MacBook Pro Models

One person said what worked best for them was Peek Metal Polish (actually also polishes acrylic, etc) followed by rubbing alcohol for removing the anti-glare coasting. Also PolyWatch for the fine screen scratches. But again, these processes were too time intensive.

And:

• YouTube: MacBook Retina Screen Anti-Glare Coating Removal Cleaning Scratch Stain Problem Fix
• YouTube: Macbook Pro Screen Staingate Problem - Removing the Oleophobic Coating

Any input would be welcomed.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented 5월 06, 2026 at 8:45 GMT-7

I suspect the issue may be the battery ribbon cable, which I’ve already ordered, but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this or knows what the problem might be.

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented 5월 05, 2026 at 5:06 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 5월 04, 2026 at 19:13 GMT-7

I’ve searched everywhere: online stores, marketplaces, spare parts sites… nothing reliable, nothing in stock, nothing that I can actually trust.

This tiny cable is literally the only thing stopping me from fixing my MacBook. Without it, the device is useless. I really don’t want to replace the whole machine over something like this.

Does anyone here know where I can find this part?
Even used or refurbished would be totally fine at this point.

Any help would seriously mean a lot.

⟐ Answer edited 5월 05, 2026 at 1:50 GMT-7

Im not getting any sound from the speakers either but if I connect and bluetooth accessories it works straight away. The fans are also always on high speed.

Please help any solution is highly appreciated.

⟐ Commented 5월 04, 2026 at 14:46 GMT-7

The widgets are stored within /System/Library/CoreServicesBut Notes & Reminders are not there anymore (Maybe some others also have gone).

Unable to set weather location

Bluetooth Sharing has gone, but Bluetooth is on as I use a Magic Mouse II without any issues.

I also CANNOT change 'Open with default app' for example .mp3 or .mp4 opens with either Books, Music, Audacity, QT Player (All are different), even when I change to VLC as it always was with before via various methods NONE are changed so they all open with my preferred app. No matter what I try nothing seems to change anything, GET INFO (Set Default), Right Click (Open with other...) or even with App Cleaner app to set default app by extension etc....

This is really bugging me as I do not want to perform a complete clean install as I have a dual boot system and many files. We can rule out using Time Machine as that maybe will not solve it as from experience TM might still bring over the corrupted settings.... Is there a preferences file that I can delete or restore if so which one? Otherwise, system is running fine, these are my only issues noticed so far since a week or so. I have no dodgy software installed, nothing recently installed, no updates have been done (None to do anyway as all is up to date)..... I have booted into safe mode, rebooted as normal, but it has made no difference. Mystified on this as it is something I am usually good at fixing.

I found this link about widgets but no joy .

⟐ Answered 5월 04, 2026 at 8:41 GMT-7

I didn't get the display with the machine since it was toast—the T-CON board was still mounted in the top case and all the cables were totally ripped, hinges were still screwed in as well, just none of the rest of the display

Surprisingly, the thing still boots. I didn't even have to do anything. I can get into it no problem. Have recovered data for said friend.

But since said friend doesn't want it back, I wanted to get some use out of it. I need to get some pictures for the MacBook Data Recovery Guide I've been working on for Share Disk Mode steps and this is the only Apple Silicon Mac I have access to.

It will not show the startup options screen on the external display I have connected. It may be on the correct menu, but I would have no way of knowing since it doesn't output the primary display, only the secondary display in an extended setup. All I get is a black screen and mouse pointer if I manage to get the pointer on the second screen. Oddly, the internal display is still "detected" when I'm in OS. Maybe that's normal? But I don't even have the eDP cable connected.

Powering on never gets me an Apple logo even if it's booting, and I never see whatever was supposed to be on the primary display until it gets to OS where I have it set to mirrored mode.

I have tried various terminal commands I've found, which all errored as invalid (they all reference NVRAM which is handled differently on Apple Silicon Macs). I tried triggering lid closed signals via magnets. I've tried clicking blindly, and pressing keys in some combination that might make sense for selecting the Options button. But no change.

Please help me so I can help you.

UPDATE 03/19/2023: I have messed with this a whole bunch more, just for the sake of science, but still to no avail. I have seen others who mention this sort of behavior on Apple Silicon Macs. The internal display is still detected even when it is not present.

So I went into science mode. I powered it up and measured IPD_LID_OPEN_1V8. Which measured almost 1.8V on the nose. Neither of the hall sensors containing components are even connected.

Electrically speaking, I'm willing to bet it still thinks this display is detected. And it's open. But I'm not sure where the initial detect signal or logic comes from. So. I thought. I wonder what happens if I just break the line for the aforementioned Lid Open signal. So I removed RR203. This broke the path for this 1.8V signal to be transmitted elsewhere.

Now when I connected power to the board, it thinks the lid is closed, so it won't auto power on. I can probably force a shut signal by shorting that line after I'm sure the machine is on. I can get it to power on by shorting pads, but it acts weirder than it was before.

I will probably see what happens if you break some of the enable lines, or power rails for the display.

⟐ Commented 5월 04, 2026 at 5:20 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 5월 03, 2026 at 17:28 GMT-7

Steps I've taken so far:

• Researched to see if this is even possible -- looks like the answer could be 'yes' based on some examples seen around the web
• Tried to find someone I could hire to do this (no luck thus far... hence why I'm here)
• Recently downloaded the a1398 schematics with the 820-3332-A board and fed it into some chatbots to potentially teach me how to do it myself (schematics link: https://f.ch1p.io/rjHAmTOU/820-3332-a.pd...)

Chatbot Summary of Instructions -> could use help determining if this would work

1. Isolation: Open up the case and remove the R5701 & R5702 resistors -> Ensures the MacBook's PCH doesn't interfere with whatever end computer I connect it with.

2. Data: Solder the Green (D+) and White (D-) wires of the USB cable to the connector side of those R5701 & R5702 resistor pads -> Corresponds to the 'USB_TPAD_P' and 'USB_TPAD_N' connections (Keyboard + trackpad data signals are combined via IPD cable)

3. Power: Solder the Red (5V) wire of the USB cable to the L5700 pad leading to the connector -> this small inductor/ferrite bead provides 5V to the PP5V_S4_TPAD rail via L5700, allowing the trackpad's circuitry to manage internal power needs

4. Ground: Solder the Black wire (GND) to the metal ears or shield of the J5800 connector -> ensures data signals are clean and will be recognized by an external computer

NOTE: In case you're wondering why I'm doing this...

- I have chronic myofascial pain in my upper extremities. This Macbook Pro model allowed me to go for long periods of time without pain. Having tried dozens of newer laptop models for Mac, Windows, and Chromebook, I have yet to find one with a keyboard/trackpad that performed as well for my pain as the MBP a1398. I could really use some help on how to do this myself.

⟐ Commented 5월 03, 2026 at 12:25 GMT-7

I’ve tried entering DFU mode and it did not work.

There is no sound, and the display does not turn on at all. I had exactly the same issue with a slightly older MacBook, it really seems like this is a systematic issue. Does anyone have an idea if this is true and a possible fix?

• Firefox/YouTube: Video plays without audio.
• Safari/YouTube: Sometimes no audio/video (but seeker moves, subtitles come). Sometimes video just stuck on loading—in which case after a while it tells me to “try restarting the device” if playback doesn’t resume.
• Apple TV: Media cannot load/play. Instantly media player is “killed” for the lack of a better term.
• Apple Music: Track auto skips to next. Similar to Apple TV. It attempts to play, can’t play, then instead of killing the media it skips to next song, repeat.
• Many streaming services in Firefox, Chrome, Safari: The playback technically begins, I can see the seeker/playhead move in time and subtitles come and go, but video is black and there’s no sound.

What’s common in all scenarios is there’s no sound. It happened abruptly one day. Default device is set to “MacBook Pro Speakers”.

More strangely, in the past week I've been having this problem, there have been two times when it became completely fine. That too, mid-playback. And randomly, it goes away too. For example, most recently when it started working again, I was watching a video on YouTube. I pause it for a bit to do something and when I come back and resume it, suddenly there's no sound again.

Further clarifications:

• I opened OBS Studio and added window capture of Firefox while playing a YouTube video. The sound bar was not moving at all.
• I have removed all Bluetooth devices and kept Bluetooth off while I have tested all this.
• It's not just media, no alert sounds are coming either, including the boot-up sound.
• Sound works fine when using a headphone (via aux for example).
• No crackling or weird noise to tell me that speakers are damaged in any way. When they started working again twice randomy during the last week, they worked 100% fine with complete clarity and volume.

Video here.

MacBook Pro 16-inch 2021 with Apple M1 Pro, 16 GB RAM, and Sequoia 15.5 operating system.

⟐ Commented 5월 02, 2026 at 9:54 GMT-7

Screen shows no sign of these patches when turned off

⟐ Commented 4월 30, 2026 at 8:44 GMT-7

And yet the laptop does not work as usual. First time it took ages until it could load the log-in screen. And it didn't got better afterwards either. The "SYMPTOMS" include:

• very long response time to basic commands such as close the tab or move the cursor;
• battery status is not shown - neither on the tab nor in settings; I suppose the computer does not "see" it;
• fans start to work at full speed as soon as I open the lid and continue like this - no matter the task - and albeit MBP is not even warm.

That's it. I've got to say that I didn't exchange the battery. The only way I came into contact with it is at a step where the battery power connector is disconnected (and then connected); and the same with the battery board data cable.

I've read here and there about those "symptoms" and it seems that (1) working slowly with (2) fans at full speed albeit no need to cool the computer down indicates that my MBP is running in a safe mode. Well, I would like to know whether you guys think this too.

Where could have I done sth. wrong in the assembly to cause this behavior? Or what else could be the reason?

After going through the manual (MacBook Pro (16 Zoll, 2019) Display tauschen - iFixit Reparaturanleitung) again I believe to have narrowed down the list of possible causes to just four connections that might not sit just right:

1. 1. Display board flex cable (German: Flachbandkabel; step no. 19)
2. 2. Antenna cables (Antennenkabel; steps no. 22-23)
   3. Battery board data cable (Akkuplatinen-Datenkabel; steps no. 11-14)
3. 4. Battery power connector (Akkustrom Stecker; steps no. 15-16)

But I don't want to disassemble the computer just yet, bcs. I am still not sure whether the cause is not sth. else, e.g. faulty display (item) or I broke sth. else during the process. So who knows what the cause of the behavior described might be? And how to fix it.

@danj thank for advice. However, yesterday after posting this question I chatted with FixBot here. It wasn't completely precise, but in general I understood that the issue most likely lies within the bad battery data cable connection. Without doing diagnostics first I risked and disassembled the cover again to check connections manually. Now it works.

It's interesting, I thought that the issue was that one or both sides of the battery data cable weren't fully in the socket. AI said (falsely) that gold pins a) should be put face down to the logic board and b) they need to be full way in to make full contact with the socket. Both of which are false, however. I checked a) with a YT-video where this model gets disassembled - gold pins should face upwards, as in the photo (guide is correct). And b) can be checked with another YT-video too, but also I tried it this way and that way to get it fully inside and it's impossible. I might have even bended one side of golden pins slightly. So DO NOT do it. It's just strange that they do not go fully inside and also aren't really fixed (only with those tiny ears).

However, after reseating this battery data cable with the battery power connector in reverse order (first connect the battery data cable to the logic board side, which is away from the middle of the computer, then battery power connector, then another side of the battery data cable to the battery side, which is to the middle of the computer), it works. ''''

//This discrepancy remains in the guide bcs. there they just say "redo in reverse order to assemble", which means that the battery power connector gets connected before the battery data cable and, according to the FixBot, can cause a short circuit, esp. if cable is not inserted straight. ‼️

So I did not change anything as I see it; also checked other parts I touched during screen replacement procedures: everything looked perfectly aligned and I did not touch them. But believe it or not, after putting each screw back, plugging in the computer and turning it on, I got this: a) no roaring fans; b) usual processing speed; c) battery status is back. So just as it should be. The conclusion is: it was either bad connection of the cable to the socket or a ZIF brake maybe was not flat entirely; or exactly the order of the steps, as AI suggested (however in YT-video they also do it as in the guide: first power, then data).

I hope my detailed answer will help anyone facing similar issues after reassembly.

⟐ Edited by author 4월 30, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4월 30, 2026 at 6:47 GMT-7

I'm experiencing weird issues with my MBP 16" I9 2.3GHZ, 32GB, 1TB, 5500 4GB.

I bought it second hand in October 2024 and due to some strike by Canada Post it stayed for a whole month in a warehouse, dead battery on delivery, the Touch ID was kaput, tried many resets and installs and nothing (no DFU yet).

Some time later, I began having some Kernel Panics here and there, once a month, not so persistent. But lately it began to happen too much in the 10's one after another.

I used it for long gaming sessions with an external ssd ( bootcamp ) not a single crash.

The kernel panics happened a lot when :

Apps running : Chrome, PremierePro, After Effect, Spotify...
Connected to : NVME enclosure, external USB C hub ( 4K HDMI + 2 ext. HDD ), Bluetooth connected to my AV receiver.

Lately I switched to using Safari only and weirdly no more crashes:
NVME enclosure connected + Pr + Ae + Bluetooth active, w/o external USB C HUB

Here is a conversation with Gemini documenting the crashes : https://gemini.google.com/share/e49e55d1...

Gemini is pointing to a faulty power rail or even a faulty T2 Chip ( management + BridgeOs).

I've tried to having some experts to diagnose the issue and all of them gave me the same advice "change the motherboard or better buy a new one".

Louis Rossmann won't be happy with their diagnosis, but yeah I get the struggle of putting in some work and having it fail again.

Right now I sincerely think it's a software issue, I tend to run a lot of renders over Ae & Pr and not a single crash, CPU and temps all high for 1 or two hours, only when an app as Chrome or Spotify ( chromium based app ) runs that I have the unresponsive for sometime before rebooting from a panicked kernel.

The report always states a random unresponsive processes, but I fell like the smoking gun is held by Chrome or Spotify, my proof is simple, they do happen a lot when I push it to the extreme, open new tabs of very taxing website (IG, FB marketplace) the kind of website that has too many layers to it...

Is there anything that I'm missing here ? Faulty hardware acceleration ? I typically run my Mac on dedicated GPU only. Any other hardware ? Or purely some corrupted firmware ( T2 related ).

I'm willing to do a DFU restore in the coming days with another Mac to attempt a recovery of the TouchID and a clean install, even though one quick visit to an Apple Store and they told me it was best to replace it for 200$ ( after a 1 hours diagnosis ).

Tanks again !!

⟐ Answered 4월 29, 2026 at 19:06 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 4월 29, 2026 at 18:19 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 4월 29, 2026 at 18:22 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 4월 29, 2026 at 14:45 GMT-7