WHEN I CLICK THE LINK FOR BATTERY A1416 TO ORDER IT, ITS SHOWS ME THE BATTERY A1389. IT IS NORMAL ? I DONT WANT TO BUY THE WRONG BATTERY AGAIN. THANKS FOR YOU HELP!

JENNIFER

MONTREAL, CANADA

iPad 3 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement,

⟐ Commented 12월 07, 2024 at 8:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 10월 29, 2024 at 18:40 GMT-7

After display assembly replacement for the iPad Mini 4 the new display will not lay flat on the housing. it pops up at the lower right hand side as if something is pushing it up and the adhesive will not hold it. At first I thought this was the fault of a bent frame, but after much shaping and reshaping, I’ve ruled that out. the frame is immaculate. I then went through and checked the routing on all flex and antenna cables, which is also perfect. What is causing this? I can do an iPad digi repair in my sleep but this one has me stumped. Any input would be a help. Never had this issue with Mini 4 repairs before, but now seeing it on the second device in as many weeks.

⟐ Commented 7월 17, 2024 at 12:39 GMT-7

After battery replacement, my iPad worked fine for some days, and started to shut down randomly when throttling on the GPU.

I opened it up a second time, and noticed that one of the battery connector was slightly pushed down, so I managed to pull it out a little.

I’m still getting the same problem : when throttling on the GPU (Procreate, and especially when running Geekbench GPU Benchmark) the iPad’s screen immediately turns off, and only reboot when plugged to a power source (ac adaptor or computer connected)

The issue occurs both plugged and unplugged.

I spent a lot of time searching for a similar problem, without finding a 100% match, and I’m wondering if this is a software or hardware related problem.

Is the battery faulty? Is the motherboard’s FPC battery connector still damaged and not sending the good informations?

Thanks for your help !

Is there a way to test the battery output power? The 3,6v reading will not be enough right?

I'm not 100% sure that the pin did not make contact, but I remember that this one was a little bit pushed down (I managed to pull it out during the second teardown)

Not my picture, but I circled the connector in red

⟐ Commented 6월 26, 2024 at 15:44 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 6월 20, 2024 at 11:13 GMT-7

I'm trying to fix an iPad Air 5th Gen with a bent corner on the top right side near the Touch ID and power button.

The Touch ID button is slightly cracked and stuck in pressed position. The housing in the corner is bent sideways which keep the button pressed. And I think that the recovery mode is always displayed when charging because of the stuck power button.

You can see the actual state in the following pictures:

Are there ways to straighten it? In a way to unstuck the button to quit recovery mode. I heard that clamps and wooden plates may help to achieve this.

If possible, I would like to avoid breaking the screen in the process.

Thanks a lot for your help!

⟐ Answered 5월 29, 2024 at 9:55 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 5월 26, 2024 at 6:17 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 4월 06, 2024 at 16:44 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 3월 30, 2024 at 18:02 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 3월 26, 2024 at 14:31 GMT-7

I'm sure this is probably a battery issue, as it currently has 1117 cycles and is at 78% design capacity. What throws me off a bit though is that over half the time when I turn it back on, it shows me the multi-language hello screen and then says software update to 15.8.1 was successful. At first I thought this was a software issue, and it was running 15.7.9 and said as much. However after updating to 15.8.1 it still shows this screen when booting after a random shutdown.

I'm debating if it's even worth replacing the battery, given how old the device is. I've replaced the screen on this iPad before, not the most fun endeavor. I'm hesitant to buy any new Apple devices considering Apple's anti-repair practices, especially now that they're pairing iPhone batteries to logic boards.

In the meantime, I want to back it up so that I can migrate to a new device or not lose everything if I botch a battery swap. The problem is I can't even get it to stay on for long enough to do a backup. I've tried keeping it in airplane mode, and that hasn't helped. Is there anything I can do to get a backup out of it?

⟐ Answered 3월 18, 2024 at 9:39 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 3월 12, 2024 at 7:38 GMT-7

I wanted to ask if there is anyone here who can explain how to change? Does it need soldering?

I would appreciate an answer

Thanks in advance

⟐ Answer accepted 3월 11, 2024 at 5:57 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 2월 18, 2024 at 18:08 GMT-7

I have stumbled on a puzzling situation after replacing a battery on an ipad 4 A1458

The ipad seems to charge perfectly fine while off but when it is booted into the OS it doesn't charge but it is recognized by both Itunes and my laptop. It also seems to have a hard time recognizing the home button.

Any tips, tricks or insight into the root problem would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Commented 1월 29, 2024 at 16:10 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 1월 29, 2024 at 6:23 GMT-7

Should I even bother trying to revive an old iPad Air Wi-Fi (A1474)?

I was considering giving it to the little one, without any worries about her breaking it :)

The current device status shows the battery symbol after quite some time of plugging the power cord in (always showing an empty battery icon on the center of the screen), but I never see the operating system. Can I assume that the battery is completely dead?

If you believe it's worthwhile, what should I purchase to repair it?

Many thanks!

⟐ Answer edited 1월 28, 2024 at 8:12 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 1월 23, 2024 at 17:10 GMT-7

I had it in to an Apple authorized shop, they plugged in their tester and got nothing “static” on the line. Since my warranty is out I’d be looking at just replacing with a new model, $1500 baseline where I am.

I’ve done some phone work, replacing batteries, screens, cameras etc. but those issues are pretty self evident on what to fix. Any tips on trouble shooting this issue, be it checking over the charge port and cables, logic board, and battery?

Thanks for any support.

*****Edit*****

I’ve opened it up and the USB port seems fine, now I want to confirm the battery before completely gutting the thing. I found these 2 spots on the battery connector cable (blue arrows in picture), would this be the proper spot to check voltage? If so I got 0.01v across them which would seem the battery is shot for some reason. If someone has a better way to check the battery without first removing it I’d be happy to hear it.

final edit

I followed tear down procedures to remove the logic board to get direct access to the battery, I got 3.8v off that, so assumed it was a logic board issue. Had a third party tech check that out but found no faults, he reattached the screen and charge port and it booted like normal and everything seemed fine. I took it home, reassembled everything and everything runs fine except a few small lines of damaged pixels from being too forceful with the screen.

TLDR: took it apart and chased the gremlins out.

Big shout out to @flannelist for their input and advice, check the comments.

⟐ Commented 12월 11, 2023 at 9:09 GMT-7

Just a quick question. I've noticed reports of the iPad pro 3 and onwards having a calibration/serialization chip for the apple pencil and a screen replacement seems to degrade the pencil's accuracy.

Does the same occur on the air? I've already ordered a replacement since I need it either way, but it would be cool to know.

⟐ Answer accepted 12월 05, 2023 at 17:22 GMT-7