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현재 버전 게시자: oldturkey03 ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218] [image|589223]
[image|589218] [image|589223]
 
Let's[image|589223]

Let's
go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit#@$$##%! At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
Let's[image|589223]

Let's
go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit#@$$##%! At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be when people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be when people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(

현황:

open

편집 작업: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218] [image|589223]
[image|589218] [image|589223]
 
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit! At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be when people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(

현황:

open

편집 작업: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218]
 
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit.bullshit! At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit.bullshit! At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be when people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(

현황:

open

편집 작업: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218]
 
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit. At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be fixed, youwhen people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it just devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these.these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be fixed, youwhen people buy them from the store. You will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and it is not worth it over just doing it right, in the end it just devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these.these frankenfucked pieces of junk. :(

현황:

open

편집 작업: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218]
 
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an S5 or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit. At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an S5 or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit. At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be fixed, you will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and in the end it just devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these.

현황:

open

편집 작업: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks terrible; it was edited in paint off of a Google image that has been zoomed in 800 percent so it looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. Zoom in on the fan connector area to find four colored lines I drew in MS paint of the jumper wires you will be soldering. I am aware that this picture looks terrible; it was edited in paint off of a Google image that has been zoomed in 800 percent so it looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.
 
[image|589218]
 
Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line. What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an S5 or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit. At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!
 
I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.
 
There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be fixed, you will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and in the end it just devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these.

현황:

open

원문 게시자: zzz ,

본문:

A1278 from 2011 means 820-2936 board, verify that number near the fan connector before following this advice from my diagram. I am aware that this picture looks terrible; it was edited in paint off of a Google image that has been zoomed in 800 percent so it looks worse than minecraft, but this is as good as it gets at 1:15 AM.

[image|589218]

Let's go over the jumper wires you're going to be soldering; this is all fixable and you are going to be repair this mess right so it can be resold as a proper Macbook and not a frankenfuck with fans hanging off the USB line.  What you have suggested is butchering. USB ports supply power even in an S5 or S3 state so your fan will be spinning all the time which is obviously bullshit. At the very least if you are going to butcher attach to an S0 power supply so the fan will only spin when the computer is on, like PP5V_S0. Or find 5v nearby the fan and bridge it to fan control/tach but for &&^&'s sake do not try to attach this to USB!!

I would suggest buying a dead battery so you have jumper wire to run, just cut up the A1278 battery wire, and use individual strands inside each wire as your jumpers. R5665 is where fan speed gets sent to the SMC, R5660 is the pullup resistor creating the data line for the fan/smc communication when the laptop is in an S0 state, on pin 2. Pin 1 is basic 5VDC which is only sent to the fan when the laptop is in an on, S0 state. Pin 3 is the actual PWM signal that is created by the SMC, courtesy of pullup resistor creating data line for fan control at R5661 only when laptop is in an S0 state from PP3V3_S0.

There is a reason for this being there. So the SMC knows the fan speed, so the fan can spin at a certain RPM, so it does not spin at full speed all the time an die in less than a month, so the fan doesn't spin when the laptop is off and &&^& the battery and die. Fix the machines the way they are supposed to be fixed, you will spend 10x more time trying to figure out how to modify them and in the end it just devalues them and makes the entire market of refurbished laptops look like a scam when people receive these.

현황:

open