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현재 버전: Chris Helming ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!
 
The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.
 
Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):
 
* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet.
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back. There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but swapping the K101 switch with the K103 switch.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the backback of the PCB assembly, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip.
** Note that the three knobs on the front control panel are keyed and must fit into their respective PCB-mounted sensors in a particular orientation. If not, the PCB will jut out a little bit depth-wise and result in an incorrect fit during reassembly. (Thanks, Vladimir Kutz)
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the backback of the PCB assembly, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip.
** Note that the three knobs on the front control panel are keyed and must fit into their respective PCB-mounted sensors in a particular orientation. If not, the PCB will jut out a little bit depth-wise and result in an incorrect fit during reassembly. (Thanks, Vladimir Kutz)
 
Good luck and god speed!
 
Pictures of the PCB with K101 already removed. Placement of the 5 black screws holding the front control panel to the top case. Picture of the bottom screw holding the front control panel to the top case.
 
[image|1321339]
 
[image|1321345]
 
[image|1321344]

현황:

open

편집 작업: Chris Helming ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!
 
The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.
 
Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):
 
* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet.
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back. There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellowyellow" side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellowyellow" side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but inswapping the opposite openingK101 switch with the K103 switch.
** Solder the switches back in place but inswapping the opposite openingK101 switch with the K103 switch.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the back, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip.
 
Good luck and god speed!
 
Pictures of the PCB with K101 already removed. Placement of the 5 black screws holding the front control panel to the top case. Picture of the bottom screw holding the front control panel to the top case.
 
[image|1321339]
 
[image|1321345]
 
[image|1321344]

현황:

open

편집 작업: oldturkey03 (투표 내용) ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!

The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.

Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):

* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet. 
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back.  There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw  pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellow side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but in the opposite opening.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the back, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip. 

Good luck and god speed!

[image|1321339]

현황:

deletedopen
deletedopen

편집 작업: iRobot ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!

The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.

Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):

* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet. 
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back.  There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw  pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellow side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but in the opposite opening.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the back, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip. 

Good luck and god speed!

[image|1321339]

현황:

opendeleted
opendeleted

편집 작업: Chris Helming ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!
 
The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.
 
Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):
 
* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet.
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back. There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellow side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but in the opposite opening.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the back, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip.
 
Good luck and god speed!
 
[image|1321339]

현황:

open

원문 게시자: Chris Helming ,

본문:

I had this same problem and fixed it today. ''Boy'' was it a pain in the butt!

The issue is with the push button on the "Control PCB". It appears that one of the legs in the switch no longer connects or shorts and it causes it to trigger the "Convection" button instead. The fix is to replace that switch or order a new circuit board. I ended up un-soldering the button used to switch from °F to °C and swapped that switch with the On/Off switch.

Here's how to get to that board (you'll need hands and arms similar to that of an 8-year-old child):

* Start by flipping the toaster oven over and removing the feet. 
** There are two screws on each foot and another two in the middle
** The plastic part is slotted and will need to slide back in place when you put it back together. Keep this in mind for the re-assembly portion.
** After you have the feet off, remove the screws underneath that they were covering up. There is one screw in each corner on the bottom. These are the only screws you should need to remove from the bottom.
* Remove the back:
** Look at the back of the toaster oven and remove every screw that's facing the back.  There's a lot of them and they're all the same size.
** Next, slide the back of the toaster oven down by approximately 1/2" and remove it. It's on there pretty tight.
* Remove the top case from the toaster:
** When looking from the back, the top and right side are slotted and held in place by tension.
** Above the control panel and on the left side (same side as the control panel) there are 5 black screws. 3 are on the side and two are along the top. They are ''not easy'' to get to. I suggest starting with the one in the bottom corner and work your way to the top, then get the two that are at the top. Again, this part ''sucks''.
* Remove the control panel:
** Looking at the bottom of the toaster oven and about an inch in, there is a hole cut in the bottom and a single screw  pointing "up" toward the top of the toaster oven. Remove it.
** Unplug the 9-wire red-and-white cable.
** Unplug the white nylon 2-wire cable.
** The Control PCB should now be free.
* Remove the PCB from the assembly:
** Remove the metal piece that's over the white plastic. 2 screws.
** Remove the screws in the white plastic and take off the white plastic
** Remove the single screw holding the PCB down and take it off.
* Fix the PCB! Yay!
** The busted switch will be labeled on the "yellow" side as K101 and will be in between two LEDs. Remove the switch using a soldering iron.
** The °C/°F switch will be labeled on the "yellow side as K103. Remove it with a soldering iron. Don't mix the two up!
** The switches all go in the same way, the feet come out the left and right sides.
** Solder the switches back in place but in the opposite opening.
* Put everything back together. Just do it all in reverse.
** When putting the white plastic piece back on the back, hook the long rubber strip on it first. Then put the bent metal piece on and into the slot on the rubber strip. 

Good luck and god speed!

현황:

open