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HI,
I bought a Sounddock 1 Series and the Power adapter is dead. Those Adapter are expansive, and rather buying one I have a DC with same voltage +18V with 1A.
However the bos has a 4 pins connector.
Which one is positive and which one is neutral?
I have no way to test it.
Does my DC is suitable for this?
I know Bose power supply is +/- 18V 1A
Please let me know if you can help!
Many thanks
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Tony, the connector is a 4 prong Molex 5.5mm square Size 5.5 x 5.5 x 6.4 mm (each four pins are separated)
Pin1 = +ve 18vdc
Pin2 = -ve 18vdc
Pin3 = GND
Pin4 = GND
As for suitability of your adapter, it depends on what you have and what the outputs are. Use a multimeter and see what you get.
Hope this helps, good luck
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That did help many thanks!
So the adapter shouldn't be used as only provide +18V right?
so +18Vm shouldn't do the job...?
That is correct. You will need to come up with -ve 18V as well as +ve You could use a DC-DC converter, but by the time you added the cost for that, it may be cheaper, and easier, to use an original Bose power brick.
For anyone looking for a replacement, looks to be a Molex Micro-Fit 3.0™ Receptacle Housing, they've even got a video and a range of overmolded cable assemblies!
The image is for the removable conector or the fixed one on the sound dock?
Hello I have quastion about connecting battery power supply instead wall power, will use Bosch core battery 18V 6.3A so what pins I need to connect battery + and - to work correctly, this pins on speaker using + and - and ground for each looks like but battery have no grounds
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Hi @gorgioff ,
I think the fuse is next to the input socket.
There should be markings on it to tell you its’ specifications.
Here’s an image to show its’ location
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Thank you very much, Jayeff. With your input I could identify the fuse and verify its functionality. As there is still some flow through it, the faulty component must be something else I cannot check so easily. I ended up ordering a new adaptor from acadaptors-r-us on ebay.
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Having opened the adapter, I am ashamed of being unable to identify the fuse Frido is talking about. Can anyone help me, please?
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Dang people. Lol. Old turkey is correct. Simpler to buy a used power supply for the Bose system. Charles Brunsdon, the reference to the two 12 vdc batteries is correct. Connect wire to positive of first battery, connect negative of first battery to seconds batteries positive. This is your floating/virtual ground. Second battery negative has a wire also. So three wires and two.batteries in series. Your first batt is positive, the middle wire connecting two batts is your virtual ground for both outputs And the negative of the second batt is your negative volts. It comes out to be +/-12vdc. Still a problem is you need +/-18 vdc. And dude asking about the chargable battery. It might be 18 vdc. But its way to much amps. Bose system is 1amp. You put 6.3 amps on it and poof. No more Bose. If your gonna mess with electricity I suggest reading up on simple things like what electricity is. Amps. Volts. Watts. Current. It's all simple but it's not something you just magically put together and it works. Electronics is about the control of electricity and all elements there in. Oh. I do have a seems simple solution for all though. Two walwarts 18vdc run them like I said with the 12 vdc batteries ..you'll still have an issue.with turning on and off as if you leave one on alone it will damage circuitry. Figure a way to connect them to power up and off at same time and ya might be fine. But then there is another issue. They will not run exact same amount. Op amps need crisp pure highly regulated electricity to become the beasts that they are. Buy a used power supply. Joe G. There are ic s that do change polarity. Check this out. .https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/project...
☮️ people. Be safe with electricity. 18 volts ain't anything when you start realizing that some circuits will kill your butt .
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you don't 'put 6.3 amps' onto something that draws current. The appliance draws current from the source. Amps is flow of current.
So, running on a rechargable battery that is capable of outputting 6.3 amps, that's way more than enough for a Bose SoundDock. You could run 6.3 Bose Sounddocks from a couple of 18V rechargable batteries, wired with a centre tap between the battery packs to the GND.
You have a point however about powering both the -18V rail and the +18V rail at the same time, Since you'll probably be disconnecting the battery packs to charge them, the Bose might not cope with one power rail vanishing and the other one energised.
Two 18volt catteries in series with Center tap as ground. Higher amp capacity than rated are better.
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Hi guys,
I'm really struggling to find a replacement power supply for this unit also.
I'm very curios if 2 x 18V 1Ah DC supplies would work for this, where I hook up the first with + to pin 1, gnd to pin 3, then reverse the second psu with gnd on pin 2 and + on pin 4?
Any idea if it would explode or if it might work?
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@dean80169 it will not give you the -18V and you will blow things up. Just on a whim here and without seeing what you have on hand etc, but does one of the power supply have a bridge rectifier? Consider reversing that to make -18V. you got a multimeter? Proficient in soldering?
Thank for this, yea, not going to start stripping down power supplies.
Just looking for a quick solution as this is my Boss's system that needs a replacement PSU.
Will see what I can find.
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Is the diagram of the AC adapter plug or the Bose, socket input.
10Q
John Majer 의
Es ist jetzt ein paar Jährchen später, egal. Das Netzteil war tot. Das Gehäuse des Netzteils habe ich mit einem dicken Küchenmesser und Hammer vorsichtig geöffnet. Klinge in den Gehäuse- Schlitz und dann mit dem Hammer klopfen. Nicht hauen. Ging super. Die 2,5- A-Schmelzsicherung war durch weil ein Kontakt des Netzanschlußes sich freigenoddelt hatte. Kontakt verlötet, neue Schmelzsicherung rein, und tut. Seit zwei Tagen.
Frido Jester 의
I found a "Bose SoundDock Series II" box and inside it all looks perfect. It had no Bose +/-18V power supply, but I was lucky to get one for $20. Problem: it had the square 4 hole type of plug. So, I decided to solder the power supply cable directly onto the PCB. For that I dismantled its socket and at the same time investigated which pins go where. Can you please verify/confirm that my findings, before I turn on the power supply. I saw a diagram in which the outer ring was -V, the inner ring +V and the center ground. Here's a photo of the PCB's power input section.
Joh Drinda 의
https://app.box.com/s/sr0tzn7a4fc8vqp46s...
Joh Drinda 의
me sirvio bastante este post con el tema de los pines del conector ,finalmente construí un adaptador con un lm 7818 y un lm7918 que me entregan 18+ y 18- y mi sounddock funciona de maravillas
elias ronald quispe ramos 의