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The third generation of the Apple iPad, released on March 16, 2012. Full 4G and Wi-Fi model repair guides. Repairs require heat and careful prying. Model numbers: A1416, A1430, and A1403.

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Can I buy a replacement retaining clip for the LCD display data cable?

Hi,

I have broken the retaining clip that holds the lcd ribbon. I have tried using a bit of plastic to hold it in place and put tape over it. When I press the home button I'm getting no picture, but I hear siri in the back. I noticed when I pushed in the plastic to hold the cable secure that it looks like one of the conductor pins is loose. You can see from the image the little one sticking out. I had actually fixed the digitizer a few days before but I had broken the frame part so I had to take it apart again and put that on. So the 2nd time is not a charm.

If I need to buy something new can you suggest what and where I can find it? Thanks so much pulling my hair out now. I pretty technically oriented because I take laptops apart and put them together.

thanks!!

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With the missing pin, I think you'd probably want to just replace it---I would send it out for repair. I have done many of these and offer this as a repair service. Click my profile to get to a link to my mail-in repair website. It is possible that I could just stick that pin back down for you and get another latch placed. Otherwise, I can replace the connector with a new one.

If you do decide to DIY---DON'T use any kind of hot air method on an iPad 3 fpc connector-the melting temperature of the native solder on the existing connector at 250C is far higher than the temp that will melt the plastic. Those hot air methods work by first replacing the native solder with an alloy that melts at a lower temperature---but then that can leave a connector that is easily detached on assembly. Standard hot air methods approaching the board from the bottom side can work on an iPad 2, but on the 3 there are important components on the other side of the board that can easily be damaged by heat. I still have the first iPad 3 that I ever tried fpc connector replacement on back when I was on the learning curve---burnt the CPU. That 64gb 4G iPad 3 is now one of my donor boards for parts ;) Ouch!

good luck

jessa

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Thank you all for the information. What an awesome site! I just bought a new ipad air. So I think I will order the part and try myself. I love to try and fix things myself. Can't screw it up worse. And if I fix it will donate to someone who can't afford one. Will definitely keep your site in mind, jessabethany!

You can keep the original solder on by way of hot air. You just have to be fast. Replacing the solder with one that has a lower melting temp is also well within the range of acceptable for this particular connector as no strain is ever really put on it. THAT BEING SAID, removing and anchoring in a new connector then going point by point is the safest method but requires a bigger investment up front for a DYI. All in all this isn't something your going to pull off without a lot of practice but if you want to learn it is a challenge and kind of fun. I always say the two most enjoyable things to fix delicate electronics with is anything hot enough to melt your face and or a hammer.

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For people that have broken that retaining flap, I had the same problem. It can be resolved by using a thin Plastic strip like the plastic you would take off the rear of a iPhone that protects the lcd.cut to the dimensions of digitizer connector, then slide it underneath the connector. It will hold the cable

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If you read my question I had already used a plastic strip with the cable. I believe I pushed the plastic in to far and pushed out one of the silver pins. The pin pushes in and out now. Now I get no picture on the lcd. If I've broken the pins is the logic board now broken?

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Ah ok you will need someone that does board level repairs look for Jessabethany on this site she does this sort of repair

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thanks ;) just posted an answer

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FPC connector is what you are looking for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/19088652621...

Now getting it on and off are the fun parts, you will be using hot air to lift the old one, and then place the new one down and turning the air off before it melts the plastic of the new part. I'd recommend ordering more then one and maybe practicing hot swaps on a board or two before trying it out on a working device till you get the hang of it.

Good luck and may your hands be stead.

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