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Apple's 2012 first-generation 7.9-inch iPad mini, with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage and an A5 processor.

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Front panel not sitting flush after replacement

I recently replaced the front panel of an iPad mini and every things working fine except its not sitting on there flush i tried reheating and holding it down with some weight on top with no luck ...can anyone give me some advise on what to do or use

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An original quality screen will always sit perfectly flush in an unbent frame even without any adhesive.

The key to a professional quality mini screen replacement is:

1.) Removing every last trace of the old adhesive

2.) Making the frame perfectly straight/corners perfect (use a g-tool or a dremel)

3.) Making sure the digitizer and lcd flex are folded as in the original---many people allow the digitizer flex to stick to the glass, which will cause it to bend the wrong way and cause a crease and a lift on your screen.

The other common cause of a lift is any bend whatsoever in the large metal shield that the LCD sits on. If yours is bent, it would be better to just leave it off entirely.

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Thank you so much i will be repairing an iPad 2nd gen next week. I will be using these tips :) btw i checked out your website and i love it ! I'm beginning to repair iPads and this was of great help thank you again!.

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I would also add that in the case of severely cracked screens it is easy to overlook debris falling into the chasis of the ipad mini. Depending on you process you could just have digitizer remains floating about behind the screen. Another possible culprit is screw placement for the large heat shield that resides behind the LCD. Often-times when doing this repair it is easy to think you have possibly lost a screw or two when they are in fact stuck to the smart cover magnets that glues around the perimeter of the iPad mini chasis. Give it a good look. If you have made sure that the frame isn't bent this is the only other culprit. Jessa's reply is right on the money!

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It sucks but you have to remove the screen and see what is underneath it that is causing it not to be flush with the frame. What side of the screen is not wanting to seat probably?

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Top and bottom so I'm thinking an issue of not a strong enough adhessive I've repaired 3 iPads now and each time there is a slight opening to it .

Alan, have you tried heating the screen so the adhesive gets more sticky I know some techs do that and it works for them.

Alan you mentioned that you just started a business if you need any advice or have any questions here is my email at grios.g3mobile@gmail.com

Heat is always a good idea as the adhesive that comes pre-installed is heat activated. It may seem like it is sticky enough but if you haven't cleaned the frame enough then this may not be the case. Looking back on the repairs that I have performed, the digitizers that I didn't apply heat to almost always would come loose. Using an IR thermometer, heat the screen to 130-150 f while trying not to heat the LCD too much. Gently work the outer edges of the digitizer to coerce adhesion. Viola! You have a properly seated and adhered digitizer!

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