3 MB 공유 L3 캐시 1.7 듀얼-코어 Intel 프로세서 (Turbo Boost 최대 2.6 GHz).

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Where can I find these parts?

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Watching movie...loud pop...MacBook dead...slight burnt aroma.

These 2 components, which can be seen in attached photo, seem to have popped:

1) Polarized, rectangular, black and marked "33 / 1E2N" (lower left center of photo)

2) Dark grey, square and marked "4.7 UH / 1250AC (upper right of photo)

I would like to ask:

1) What these parts are and whether their failure seems like just an isolated failure or

whether it clearly indicates a larger problem that caused their failure.

2) Where can I obtain exact replacements and/or equivalent parts?

3) Might you know the size of the Torx-looking tool you need for the case screws. I

made a tool by filing the end of a large paper clip but think I need a proper one.

Update (02/16/2017)


Thanks for your prompt reply. I DID upload a photo but didn't realize that it wasn't added.

The tools and ability to effect the repair are not an issue. I know someone who has the necessary equipment.

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Update (02/16/2017)

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After Cleaning picture

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There are no photos attached, please reupload these. The parts are soldered however, so you will need the correct tools and experience to proceed with this.

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US$100 이상 또는 Pro Tech Toolkit을 포함한 모든 주문의 배송은 무료입니다!

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@uncleandy "component part at the upper right (4.7 UH / 1250AC) " is L7030 which is a 4.7UH 17A PIMC104T4R7MN inductor. The other part is C7030 which is a 33UF 0.06Ohm 25V 20% Poly-Tant capacitor in a Case-D3L package. The voltage(drop) is not as relevant as the measuring the capacitance to determine if it works as designed.

Update (02/17/2017)

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I'd check with places like mouser.com or Digikey.com. Sometimes a donor board is needed to replace those parts. Both are parts of the PBus power supply circuitry, so you'd have to check the traces and components for that to determine if there is anything else going on.

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Thank you so much!!

Lastly, referring to my original questions:

"1) whether their failure seems like just an isolated failure or whether it clearly indicates a larger problem that caused their failure."

What do you think?

"2) Where can I obtain exact replacements and/or equivalent parts?"

Do have any idea where I might find these?

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Remove and clean the board using 95%+ isopropyl first, then test it. The parts you mention don't look blown, they are stained by some sort of liquid. Once cleaned, if it is still not working, you will need to download a schematic and board view for your MacBook (board number begins with 820 and will be somewhere on your board, use Google to find the files). Once you have these, you can then use a multimeter to measure voltage rails.

The board screws can be removed using a T5. Let us know how the cleaning goes and we can take it from there.

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I had already cleaned it prior to my post. There was no change when power was reapplied. It's dead asa doornail. That may APPEAR to be liquid but is definitely not. This MacBook Air has never had any liquid of any kind spilled on it, into it or even near it.

1) Judging by the pattern of the material on top (and the subsequent stain after cleaning) , the component part at the upper right (4.7 UH / 1250AC) just oozed. It has a .01vdc voltage drop across it, measuring 0.58VDC at the top terminal & 0.48VDC at the bottom terminal.

2) The other part (the polarized one) looks like new after cleaning. I am guessing that it's a capacitor. Strangely, I now see that the identical part to it's immediate right has a vertical line in the center that looks like a molding seam. I think this is actually a crack, especially since the part to the left has no line whatsoever. You can see it in the picture. Both of these parts have 14.8VDC at the + terminal.

The voltage readings are the with or without power

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@uncleandy I can assure you (along with any tech on here), that is definitely some sort of liquid damage. Grab a schematic and boardview for 820-3208, and check the power aliases page. Go through and measure the G3H rails, then S5 rails, to find out what is missing. You can search for the relevant voltages on the board view software and it will tell you where to measure. The inductor is fine I reckon, the tantalum capacitor may be bad, but don't go replacing things blind, measure the main voltages in the MacBook first.

Have you also tried plugging the charger cable in with the I/O cable, battery and trackpad cable disconnected?

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I got the schematic and a boardview but the view seems to be for the other side if the board...820-3208A, I guess. How can I find the bottom side?

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@uncleandy there will be a key to press in order to flip the view, usually the space bar

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Great...right you are!! Thanks. I will do

btw: What am I looking for if I "plug the charger cable in with the I/O cable, battery and trackpad cable disconnected"? I haven't disconnected anything yet.

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