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Repair guides and disassembly information for laptops manufactured by ASUS.

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Broken battery connector notebook motherboard, is this fixable?

I was trying to unplug the battery from its connector on this TP500LN Asus Notebook and the connector came straight off its joints. I have a soldering iron and I'm wondering if it is possible to fix this. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks

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Chris M what motherboard is it? what are the markings/numbers on it? Any point of reference will help.

The exact model is a TP500LN-CJ035H

can you check your motherboard for any marking/identifier

how do you run the jumper wires?

you need to find the traces that the pads was ripped from and run a copper wire

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Well, every single one of the pads that was on the motherboard are now gone, so, yes and no. Yes if you can find a schematic and can microsolder, but no if you can find a schematic. Sorry :(

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Actually, no, I take that back. You don't need a schematic, you can just run about 6 or 7 or 8 jumper wires, 2 for pos, 2 for neg, and then one for each data line. If u can't microsolder then ask Louis rossmann for help, he may be able to fix it.

Yeah thats what I was thinking looks like the solder pads got ripped off, I tested with a multimeter on what little trace is left and there seems to be a connection still but I'm not sure whether it would be good enough, is soldering to the underside instead an option? Thanks

It might be, Ive never worked on this model but I have done the same thing you did before. Might need a new port, but after soldering it should work with some hot glue also to help keep it on.

Is this a water damaged board? The capacitor next to the data lines looks pretty black on one side.

@gigabit87898 i have the same problem but a bit lucky cuz pos and neg can still be soldered but i don't know how to jump or where the the data lines are going..can u help? model is asus x510uq .cheers

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@ifunxtreme, in my opinion this isn't a horrible repair; it actually looks quite doable as long as you have even moderate soldering skills. If this was my board, here's what I'd do.

First off, I'd start with the data lines. In this case you're fortunate that there are vias right next to the solder pads that give you an excellent place to solder to. Take a bare piece of 22 AWG wire and bend it at a 90 degree angle into an L shape. Put the short end of the L into the via just behind the two data lines. Lay the rest of the wire out to the place where the solder pads used to be. Solder the two wires into the vias, and don't be frugal with the solder. Tin the wire along the entire length, again being liberal with the application of solder. Here's a picture of where to put the wires, marked in red.

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Next, carefully scrape away the solder mask (the green coating) over the area around the three ground pads and the three power pads as shown inside the orange boxes in this picture.

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Use some flux and tin the areas you just scraped with a thin layer of solder.

Now, prepare the old connector by using the soldering iron and some flux to clean off the old pads from the contacts. Tin the bottom side of the two data lines with a fairly thick layer of solder and make sure the top of the other pins are all tinned lightly.

Next, use some good glue like epoxy or gorilla glue and apply it generously to the bottom of the connector, especially in the two spots that used to be connected to solder pads in the far corners. Keep the glue away from the pins you're going to solder; don't want to make the job any harder than it has to be.

You can choose to wait till the glue is set or just hold the connector in place while you solder; that's up to you and either way should work. At any rate, you'll want to flow a lot of solder all around the power and ground pins to reconnect all six of them to the scraped-off surface of the ground and power planes. Again, be generous with the solder; you want to both provide an electrical bridge to the planes as well as reinforcing it as a mechanical connection as well.

Finally, solder down the two data pins; assuming you've got a good coating of solder on the bottom side, you should get a decent electrical connection to the jumper wires you added. It might help to make the wires a little longer than the pin so it sticks out slightly and will give you a place to ensure a solder bridge between the wire and the pin.

Once you've let the glue set, you should have a reasonably secure mounting and a good electrical connection as well.

Give that a try and let us know how it goes!

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The torn off wires and solder pads have to be restored on the mainboard with soldering iron, flux and solder mask. If you do not have the confidence to do this, you can use this service.

https://www.electronicloop.de/Asus-Batte...

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God, I just had the same problem with the same connector, never had problems with other Asus laptop but this one

Thank you dear Asus for using this stupidly fragile connector design

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Same with me I gently lifted up on the connector and the whole thing came right off the board. I'm going to call Asus and see what they say, this is totally ridiculous, there is no way the amount of force I used this should have happened.

It seems to be very common with Asus. NorthridgeFix on Youtube mentioned so and he has some great videos on fixes on numerous Asus boards. https://youtu.be/0hV05M3brCI

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