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Repair and disassembly guides for GE Microwave ovens.

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Fan stays on when door is open, door switches test good

We recently started having an issue with our 6 year old GE microwave (model # JNM1951SR1SS) where the fan stays on when the door is opened. It's an intermittent problem, but in the last day or so the fan stays on almost every time the door is opened (turntable doesn't turn).

I've been searching various forums, and it seems the part most likely to cause this problem is a faulty door switch. I've tested all three, and they all test good. Top and bottom are NC, and the middle switch is NO. All cycle appropriately when checking with a multimeter. I've removed the entire switch mount to check them, and I also checked them installed to make sure the door was making physically with the switch actuator.

We've also had rare issues with the reheat auto sensing function causing the microwave to go into error, but I'm not sure if it's related to the primary issue.

What else could cause the fan to turn on when the door is opened?

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First, which fan are you talking about? The vent fan for venting steam/heat from the stove cooktop below, or the cooling fan for the high voltage components (located behind the right side panel)?

Second, is the fan on previous to the door open, and it doesn't turn off when the door is opened? Or, the fan was off and turned on when the door is opened?

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The cooling fan on the right side panel.

The fan comes on when the door is opened.

Appreciate any help.

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Yep same issue with mine... its the fan that kicks on when the microwave is running not the exhaust fan.

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I just started having the same issue yesterday

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REF: https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf3/73/726...

The above link is to the service manual for your microwave. On page 45, is the wiring schematic. In the center, you will find the Fan Motor listed just under the Oven Lamp. The only way for the fan motor to run is for both the Primary Interlock Switch (i.e. what you called the "bottom door switch") and the Main Relay (Lamp Relay) on the PCB to be closed. The problem is the Primary Interlock Switch is supposed to be open when the door is opened which would effectively remove the 120VAC from the cooling fan. You state the "bottom door switch" measures NC, but did you test when the door is opened? Go to page 40, and perform the test for the interlock switches. Your primary interlock switch has to be bad (i.e. stays closed no matter what the door does). Therefore, when the door opens and the Lamp Relay closes to turn on the interior lamp, it also closes the cooling fan circuit.

Also, look at page 27 and read the section about the monitor switch (i.e. the "middle door switch"), and its purpose is to blow the main fuse when the contacts of the primary interlock switch and power relay fail to open when the door is opened. So when you perform the test on page 40 for the primary interlock switch, also perform it on the monitor switch.

Also, look at page 25 and read the Note in the Line Fuse section. Namely, if the fuse is blown because of the monitor switch function, you need to replace the monitor switch and to test the power relay and interlock switches for shorts.

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I've concluded that I need to change the door switches, and that looks fairly simple. I've read conflicting ideas on discharging the capacitor prior to doing work on the switches. Discharging the capacitor looks more difficult. Is there risk in not discharging the capacitor? thanks for the help!

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I had the same problem then everything turned off. I'm assuming the fuse blew. Do I need to change the fuse once I change the door switches? Thanks, -Ted

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Also, do I need to discharge the capacitor to work on the door switches and inline fuse?

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No need to discharge any capacitors for this repair, but do cut the power to the microwave oven before digging into it.

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I just swapped out the bottom switch of our GE microwave oven because the fan ran with the door open. The switch does ring out OK on an ohm meter, but the return spring seems weak, and it does not click positively and resoundingly the way the new replacement part does.

I suspect the old switch is unable to lift the plastic piece the door engages, and thus stays down in its electrically closed orientation, signalling that the door itself is closed. Anyway, the new one ($8 for two on eBay) fixed the problem quickly.

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Sorry, I checked the switches again. You're right, the top and bottom are NO, and the middle switch is NC. I was going off of memory when I wrote my original post, so I appreciate you bearing with me. I retested all the switches again, and they all "appeared" to be changing state when I closed the door, according to my multimeter.

I ended up removing the switch assembly and tested each switch again. They all changed states again. I figured since I already had the switches removed, I would swap the two interlock switches. After I reassembled the microwave and tested it, it acted like the door wasn't shut (which would indicate the secondary switch was faulty, which was previously installed as the primary switch). Afterwards, I disassembled the microwave and removed the switch assembly again. The faulty switch would change states when I pressed the button, but I think the way I was testing it (the way I was holding it) was causing gravity to open the switch instead of the spring tab inside the contact.

I don't know why I was getting the readings with it installed and testing with the door physically making the switches.

Thanks for all the help Tim.

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Hello!

we are having the same issue with our GE over the counter microwave.. did you ever solve the issue?

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Hi, see Tim's solution above. It ended up being the door switch.

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I had the same problem, then everything turned off. I'm assuming the fuse blew. Do I need to change the fuse once I change the door switches? Thanks, -Ted

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Hi Adam - I had the same issue and my Microwave is GE Profile. The Overhead Fan was TURNING ON, when I closed the door. I kept it ON for an hour and NEVER TURNED OFF. After my investigation and following your directions, the TOP Door Micro Switch (NO) was FAULTY (seems got HOT, Melted a BIT, and Went Bad) and verified/confirmed with Multi Meter too. I replaced the BAD Switch with a NEW ONE. PROBLEM FIXED and WORKS NORMAL.

It was just a bit time consuming process and your LOGIC WORKED. just wanted to share and THANKS A LOT and APPRECIATE your SUGGESTION.

By the way, even though I am a mechanical engineer, unable figure it out why OVERHEAT FAN COMES ON. EXCELLENT INFORMATION, LOGIC, SUGGESTION and THANKS A LOT.

Ravi

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Hello,

My vent fan is going on when the door opens ( just recently). As a female, I am unfamiliar as to how to repair. Its a GE profile convection/microwave over the stove 11 years old. Thanks for any help you can provide. There is no info in my manual regarding any switches. Thanks, Rhoda K

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