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What does the error code 3E mean on my front loader washing machine?

Samsung wf1752wpc

The error code 3E keeps showing up on the machine at the start of the cycle. It won’t spin or start a rinse cycle or anything. I run the machine on test mode and when I select either spin or rinse it comes up with the error. I took the motor out and checked the bushes and they are all fine, but when I remove the top of the washing machine and play around with the wire harnessing and making sure plugs are pushed all the way in (I don’t really feel like I do anything to them) it starts working again! I have done this twice now and then it will stop working again after 4 or 5 washes. I’m not sure what would be causing it but I’m hoping someone could help me narrow it down so I can get it fixed permanently without having to get a new machine. Cheers

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Can I still wash if I am seeing the 3E error code???

Why isn’t anyone talking about the drain pump causing this? Is that possible? If the “fins” on the drain pump can be an issue…why can’t the pump not operating be an issue for the E3 code? Tks

Thanks for sharing. I also experience this issue with my Samsung 16KG.

What I did was that I switched it off and on many times, but no positive change.

What I did again was to empty the drum, set the machine to spin and I paused the machine, then opened the and turn the drum clockwise, close the drum again and release the pause.

That is all I did to restore the spinning and 3e error code.

Hello, I have been battling a 3e error on my Samsung washer. I have replace the hall center, no change. Replace the board in the rear and that worked for a month. Then went again, thought it was a bad board so brought another one, good for another 3 months then went out again, decided to swap out the rotor and another board, still nothing. Finally called a repair guy and he said they would have started with everything I have done . They advised wiring harness. The guy said if that’s not it, something went faulty and time for a new one. Just installed wire harness today and fingers crossed.

I had the same problem ... the filter in the front for the evac pump had a penny, a nickel, lots of calcium and lint like material.. cleaned it with vinegar and she is bow working like a new one ! Just lower access plate unscrew to the left. I had to line filter up to replace. Clockwise ofc!

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How To Fix 3E Samsung Washer Error Code:

1. Unplug The Washing  Machine:

Unplug the washer for 2-3 minutes. If the fault is displayed because of an electronic glitch, or communication issue, unplugging the washer for several minutes may possibly reset the electronic panel. Make sure to leave the washer unplugged for at least 2-3 minutes. Leaving unplugged for that long will allow the capacitors located on the printed control board will discharge. letting the capacitors completely discharge is the best way to reset these electronic control boards.

2. Check Wire Connections On Drive Motor:

One fairly common issue that causes the 3E error code is connection problems. Double check the wire harness on the motor. To do so you will need to remove the small back access panel to see the motor and connections. On the back right side you’ll see the motor and the motor wie harness. If this was my call I would remove the connection and check the inside of the molex connection. Sometimes the contacts inside the contain burn/melt. If that check good examine the first several inches of the wire as it leaves the molex connector. I’ve seen the wire break a couple inches away several times. I’m not sure if it’s from stress or friction but I’ve seen it a couple times so double check that.

3. Check Wire Connections On Control Board:

The control board could possibly have a faulty wire connections or loose connection. Not very common at least not in my area but it could happen so It’s worth mentioning. Double check each connection on the control board. Make sure each connection is tight and the wires are not pinched are burnt anywhere. Again if this was my service call I would remove each wire one at a time and plug back in making sure each wire connection is seated tightly. That just ensures everything is good and sound and one more thing is ruled out.

4. Check Hall Sensor:

The hall sensor on the back of the washer monitors the speed and direction of the tub. The sensor can be out of range or it could also have a faulty wiring connection. I’ve also seen the wire harness on the motors hall sensor break. I know of other technicians who have seen the same issue. Double check the hall sensor. If you have a multimeter, you could ohm the sensor out. You can ohm the sensor out from the board or directly at the sensor. If you tested the hall sensor from the board, that would rule out a broken wire at the same time. That’s usually how I test these hall sensors. You don’t have to slide the unit forward and you can test it from the front.

Finally if all the above test good. The motor is going to most likely need to be replaced to fix the fault code. The motor on these units are actually very reliable. Unfortunately a few of them most have made it out of the factory with issues because the 3E error code on Samsung washers is becoming more and more common. I used to see this code very rarely. In the last two months I bet I’ve seen it 3-4 times.

Did you find this article helpful? Do you still have questions about your Samsung washing machine error code? The 3E fault code can be fixed and I can help you. If you still have questions, use the ASK Matt tab at the top of this page or the comment form below.

Answer thanks to Matt

Video on fixing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_H6EDquj...

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What if you have a direct drive motor without carbon brushes what then please?

What should the Ohm reading be for a "good" hall effect sensor?

So I am out of ideas. I do not have a motor in my washer. I have replaced my hall sensor and checked my connections. There are 3 boards in the back of my washer and noone can tell me which one could be bad to try to replace it.

@cmiller83

What is the model number of the washer?

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For me it was just a matter of replacing the brushes on the motor. Found a set on eBay for $29.95. 10 min job to replace them.

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Is there a video to use as a go-by? I’m not sure if my problem is similar or not, but willing to bet it’s a motor failure. I set to spin only mode and the drum turns a bit, shakes and sounds like something is clanking inside the hard plastic sleeve encasing the drum and motor. It tries three times before throwing the E3 code.

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Hi Luke,

I had this problem too - exactly as you described. E3 error. wiggled all the connections and it ran happily for a few washes then faulted again. It turned out to be the noise filter on the mains power. I have bypassed it for now and the machine works just fine. I have also ordered a replacement which i will install when it arrives.

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Fens on pump are prob broke causing it to pump some but not enough.

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Mine is a front loader model WF8802RPF. I believe there is a design fault with the circuit board as I’ve had to fix this issue twice on my machine.

Fault presents as error code e3. Water will drain out but drum will not spin. Turn off power and gain access to the control circuit board by removing the top cover. Disconnect the plugs and remove the front panel. The circuit board is coated in clear silicon and stuck in a plastic housing. The circuit board needs to be removed to get access to the solder side. Cut the rubber coating around the edge and carefully prize the board out. The solder side is also coated in silicon. Mine has an orange relay (a rectangular shaped box) located near a socket with 6 pins (in a 3x2 configuration.) Carefully remove the silicon rubber covering the solder joints under that relay and examine the solder joints. What I found was what is called ‘dry joints’ where the solder shows cracking around some pins or even damage to the track. Often the solder can also look dull. This needs repair by resoldering (and track repair if damaged). (I suspect the electrical load is more than what the pads can handle, and that’s what causes the dry joints and hence the failure. ) Ideally after repair you should put silicone back in where you have removed it to cover the repair but I didn’t worry. Re-assemble and test.

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I have been battling with 3E error for years on and off. I changed the control board but it was not the problem. I changed the door lock switch that was not the problem either. Everytime I run the spin test and it runs with no error code then I can wash a load without an error code. Finally I took out the heater and the thermostat sensor, soaked and cleaned them in vinegar, that seem to solve the problem for me for now. But I also noticed sometimes that when the wash gets down to 3 minutes and the drum is ready to go in high spin, it just fail and try to again and again, til it succeed. My problem with 3E seems to me that my motor doesn't sometimes have enough power to spin the drum with heavier loads.

Update (11/08/2022)

Also 3E error could be that the motor is getting hot, and it is weak to initiate the drum to turn. Let it cool off for few minutes, hit pause then start and it should continue the wash normally.

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Dear Edwards, in my opinion you should do 3 actions. Firstly measure the main capacitor, secondly open the hall sensor which is mounted on the motor and clean it using a soft textile and alcohol. Finally inspect meticulously the wires of the motor if they are conneccted tightly.

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E3 means different things for different manufacturers. Obviously, if you move wires around and it works you have a connection issue.

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@cmiller83

There is a motor in the washer see part #3-2 Tub and drum diagram

The hall sensor is connected to the 4 pin white plug on the inverter pcb and here's a another link from the service manual that shows the possible causes for a 3E error code

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