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Should the cabinet of my dryer be hot to the touch?

I've got a electric whirlpool duet dryer, just did a heating element and high limit thermostat/ thermal fuse while I had the cabinet open. I checked for airflow restrictions, cleaned all lint out of the cabinet and exhaust vent, verified the thermister is operating correctly, and confirmed that the heating element is cycling on and off (and is not grounded to the chassis) I also repaired one seal that was not holding air.

The remaining question is if I should expect the right hand side of the dryer (outside where the heating element is installed) to get hot (not red hot, or peeling paint, just quite uncomfortable to hold your hand there) or is this normal operation? There's no smell like it's hot and the dryer is moving quite a lot of air. I ran the dryer with and without the exhaust connected and it didn't make a difference. Any help is much appreciated!

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the outside of my dryer cabinet gets very hot even when the dryer is turned off, why?

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I am wondering if my dryer is too hot if it's 4 degrees then what the industry recommends. And the Timed dry is way too hot whay does this happen and should I feel any heat on the top of the dryer?

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Cause 1

Heating Element

The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.

Cause 2

Heating Element Assembly

The heating element warms air as it passes over the element. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, first use a multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it. Next, test for continuity from each terminal to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.

Cause 3

Air Flow Problem

If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.

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I knew that you should test the heating element for continuity; but I never thought about seeing if there was continuity from each terminal to the case. Makes perfect sense. Very helpful information.

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I vacuumed out all of the lint from every crack and crevice of my dryer. It runs a lot hotter now. Yours sounds like it is more hot than is normal. I'm not sure if that is bad or not. But I do know that your dryer will run hotter after you clean the lint out.

If you don't smell anything, then there's probably no problem. But you should probably use your multimeter to check to make sure that everything tests correctly as to amps/watts/ohms, etc.

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I ran through the entire checklist in the technician docs I found inside the chassis (self test, ohm out the sensors, coil, etc...) nothing was abnormal.

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If I were in your situation, I would make sure that nothing flammable touches the hot side of the dryer, and I would put a little space on that side of the dryer to provide some ventilation; and I would go with that. However, if you don't feel comfortable doing that, then get a professional to check the dryer. Sometimes you will not feel comfortable about a situation; and you can't explain why, but you know that something isn't quite right. If that is your situation, then have a professional check the dryer.

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My speed queen dryer gets hot on top and top of sides when it is off and I can't figure out why

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What should I do if my dryer is getting hot from both the sides

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@daveb58892, Methinks thou dost worry overmuch. If you take a look at the parts list for your dryer, you'll find two heating elements; one that lives inside a tube that runs below the tub, and another one mounted on the rear of the cabinet.

Block Image

Given that coil is mounted on a metal plate, and that plate is in direct contact with the rear cabinet, I'd frankly be surprised if it didn't get hot!

So mystery solved, move along folks, nothing to see here. :)

Hope that eases your concern, Dave.

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I have a 2006 frigidaire dryer - works great, but I was cleaning it last weekend and noticed that under normal operation (heating cycle) the back of the unit gets very hot - I measured 180 degrees F!!! Seems too hot to me! The heating coil measured 11ohms resistance - I think that's normal, but maybe it's low? I wodner if the age of the coil means it's getting hotter OR perhaps my high temp sensor is bad? curious what others think. I'm tempted just to replace the coil assy, high temp sensor and other key components just to be sure! REplacing myself is not expensive! Thanks in advance! Dave

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