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The Odyssey was introduced in 1994 as Honda's first minivan — based on the Accord platform, with a 4-cylinder engine, all-disc anti-lock braking, all wishbone suspension, and a four-speed automatic transmission with a steering-column-mounted shifter and a hill-hold feature, marketed as Grade Logic.

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1998 Cranks No Start, replaced ignition, replaced main relay, replaced

1998 Cranks No Start, replaced ignition, replaced main relay, replaced distributor

Hello and thank you in advance, I am at the end of my rope.

Timing belt, water pump and idler pulley replaced after which, crank no start/difficult to start.

Mechanic said "distributor", replaced with Beck Arnley 185-5046 New Distributor


Same problem, very difficult to start but once running ran OK.

Increasingly difficult to start.

On one occasion, dash went black and car stalled while driving.

Replaced main relay, replaced ignition. Cranks no start!

Hear fuel pump, smell fuel, plugs wet.

Occasionally fires and immediately shuts down.

Rarely starts briefly.

Codes misfire cyl 1,2,3,4 and random misfire.

D4 flashes when cranking

Of note:

With key in run position sizzling sound from distributor

Spark at coil post with distributor cap off but No spark at plug wires!

Desperate for your expert advice, my mechanic is dumb-founded

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When you say no spark at the plug wires, is that with the distributor cap on or off? When the car does start does it run well or does it still misfire?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNhuDCVI...

Maybe this video will help you. The distributor were replaced by the workshop as well, but nothing. learned a lot from his YouTube page.

The problem turn out to be a loose timing belt.

Thank you for our help!

Generally, there is no spark at the plug (though occasionally the engine will run very briefly and then shut down or if it does rev, it is very rough and short lived).

With the ignition in the “run” position there can be heard an arcing, sizzling sound coming from the distributor cap. The secondary has spark and after cranking the engine with the cap off a delayed spark will jump from the coil to the housing.

It seems the spark is not getting from the coil (inside the distributor) to the rotor or perhaps the rotor is out of synch with the plug wire terminals.

On rare occasion it has started and even idled smoothly for several seconds.

Thanks for any further thoughts. The shop did double check the timing which was said to be proper, Initially it would take several tries to start but once running , ran fine (except the occasion the dash went black when driving and I thought at that time it was the main relay or ignition switch -now both replaced).

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That sounds like a bad ground on the distributor or the insulation on one of the components (I’d suspect the coil) has failed and the spark is shorting to the block. Check all the plug wires themselves as well. But my main suspicions are that the coil is shorting or the distributor isn’t properly grounded. Let me know how those components turn out and if that doesn’t solve your problem I’ll try and guide you further. Good luck!

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Thanks Travis will do!

Aloha Travis,

Could you please help this novice by providing instructions for testing the grounding of the distributor?

Very sincerely grateful for your assistance, Eric

The distributor grounds through the engine block. So if the new distributor isn't tightened down, it won't have a strong connection. If the distributor is bolted on tight, you should be fine, but if you wanted to test it, you could measure the resistance with a multimeter. Set it to ohms and touch one lead to the metallic body of the distributor and the other lead on the metal of the engine block. It should read close to zero ohms. I would inspect the coil next, look for cracks in the plastic or the resin or signs of arcing (burn marks). Let me know what you find.

Does your car have the 2.2 or 2.3 engine?

2.2. liter

distributor all tightened.

Is there an algorithm for testing the wires leading to the distributor?

Thank you

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