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The Xbox One Wireless Controller 1697 was released in 2015 and replaced the 1537 controller and fixes some of the problems found on Model 1537 controllers. The Model 1697 controller includes an integrated 3.5mm headset jack, which allows compatibility with most 3rd party headsets without an adapter. This controller has been discontinued and replaced by the Model 1708 controller.

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Can I reverse some of the analog stick drift on my controller?

I’ve had this Model 1697 controller for ~27 months (2 years, 7 months) and it’s now beginning to show the typical analog drift defect I’ve personally seen on multiple 1537’s. Admittedly I was never crazy about it because the 1697 is derived from the Model 1537, but I still kept mine around because it has always worked fine.

Part of the reason I’m hesitant to do any significant repairs is I know how unreliable the 1537/1697 controllers tend to be. My experience with both series is that they tend to break a lot more often then the 1708, whis is when they finally got it right. Mine isn't as bad as some we've seen here before but it's showing early signs of the same problem I keep seeing crop up. On top of that, the faceplate on mine has a screw hole crack, so it's forever one less screw without a new faceplate. The amount of drift varies by how much the stick moves, so it can be a non issue or impact the controller. However, it is always present to a point.

Since I know what it looks like, I had a suspicion it finally happened. I noticed it in one of the game menus on my PC games because I needed to charge my 1708 controller. Both are about the same age, but I do not have a reliable estimate for the 1708 because I did a total board swap on it due to damaged traces from my first stick only repair.

1697:

Block Image

1708 (Repaired):

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Is there a way I can improve the situation to get a little more life out of it (reversible with new sticks)? I have 4 extra sticks (pulled from 1537 boards) I can try the stick only again once it fails if I cannot do anything to reduce the problem as well.

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24+7=31 months :-) because I'm a pedant like you.

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@pollytintop it's more so someone who sees this has a reference for the age of the controller as well as being made aware the 1537/1697 was a terrible controller compared to the 1708.

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That bit's just fluff. Makes no difference to whether you can fix it.. takes up half the page for no real purpose.

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@nick the drift is most likely from the sticks itself. The only way to fix it would by replacing the analog sticks. Use your meter and check the values for the differences between the 1537/1697 and the 1708. Then try to see if you can get new ones that match the 1708 values. Using used parts (even from a 1708) might still lead to drift and early failure due to the previous wear.

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I don't have any extra sticks other than those 4 that aren't part of a controller. My best pair is in that reference 1708 and I prefer to keep that one alive. I've also seen it come from the board on the 1537, but I'm not going to assume that until I see it since I haven't seen it personally on the 1697 yet.

I'll need to do a pair swap; I have none that match the good stick after testing.

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did you check your spares with your meter to see if you have a pair of good ones left? Can't repair it unless you replace it.

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Yes. They aren't a complete match but the numbers are very close to the point it's within the margin of error. It's something like 3.48 vs 3.54 or something similar; it shouldn't matter too much since that's probably also within the tolerances of my meter (1.2%+5).

If it doesn't work I'll probably just end up buying new sticks to make sure if the price makes sense.

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@oldturkey03 it's a fault with the board. I destroyed the old stick and removed it to isolate the fault. It got worse when I removed the stick. I figured this would happen.

It's dead.

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