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Cellular version of Apple's 2nd generation iPad Air. Model A1567.

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iPad Air 2 boot loops charging battery from 0% + LCD & adhesive issue

Hi everyone

My iPad Air 2 battery got weak, and my volume down button stopped working.


So I bought:

- New battery $19.50

- New volume-microphone flex cable $4.00

- Pre cut adhesive strips $4.50


Installed everything with utmost care. Unfortunately I forgot to reinstall the plate that secures the cables connecting the LCD to the iPad. So I reopened the iPad, this time foolishly a tad less careful, so I ended up breaking my LCD screen.

I was devastated.


Had no choice, so ordered and installed a new one for $118.00.


Now I have the following issues:


Issue 1:

The iPad works, but every time the battery drains to zero and I charge it, it boot loops 3 - 4 times before staying turned off for a few minutes. Then boots and charges normally while staying on. But now I have this suspicion that the fully charged battery kinda drains faster than it should. It still lasts a fair bit, but I feel not as long as it should.


And in Settings > Battery, I get no battery info even after using the iPad for a few hours. It just says “Battery information will be available after using the iPad for a few minutes”


Question 1:

Are these sign of a bad/cheap or even damaged replacement battery?


Issue 2:

The new LCD screen displays waves along the left edge when holding the iPad on its left bezel in portrait mode.

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On that left bezel the LCD also has a thin line of being a tiny bit dimmer.

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Also I’m not sure about this, but I have a slight suspicion that this new LCD has slightly less color saturation, slightly weaker black levels, and kinda worse viewing angles with more blueshift than I think I remember.

Question 2:

Are those commonly known signs of a potentially not as good as original, cheap LCD screen? Or does it sound like a damaged screen?

Issue 3:

I have difficulties with the new LCD staying in the chassis.

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I tried the seemingly quality pre cut adhesive strips, but the LCD simply keeps slowly coming off. I then diligently cut fitting strips myself from generic double sided tape we have at home. Which seems to hold in the screen a bit better, but still, the LCD keeps slowly coming off. So I currently constantly keep pressing the edges of my LCD back in to the chassis.

Question 3:

Are there specific pro-tips on how to make sure the LCD stays in the chassis? Or is it not normal for the front to slightly keep pushing out, maybe a sign of the new battery being slightly too thick? I’d really appreciate some experts advice.

Thanks in advance

Update 20.02.2019

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Update (02/20/2019)

Ok after analyzing the new screen some more I can definitely confirm that this new one has noticeably worse viewing angles and color saturation.

I figured because I have my old broken LCD still around I can simply reconnect it and quickly compare image quality.


This is my old screen:

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This is my new screen:

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Things like this are difficult to capture in pictures, but you can clearly see the new one is washed out in comparison.

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댓글 7개

Check the battery health first - download 3utools or coconutbattery and connect your iPad to the computer.

의

Thanks for the fast response. I’ll go ahead and do that and report back after.

I have 2 more issues I wanted to post here but it wouldn’t let me post my whole text. Maybe too long, I’ll try again later.

의

Ok I used coconut battery and just like the app I use on my iPad “Battery Life” it shows that the capacity is at 100% with only 2 cycles so far.

I added screenshots to my post

의

@ray_j_king I don't see any anomalies from those screenshots. That said, a low-quality battery can sometimes give normal readings when using the aforementioned software to test, I suspect either you got a bad battery or the charger is not working properly.

Someone reported a similar charging/battery issue on this forum (boot loop), @refectio posted a detailed guideline on how to troubeshoot.

의

Thank you for your response. I see, it maybe it is a bad battery. The charger is working correctly as it's a new lightning cable. I'll look up and check the @refetio guide, maybe that will help.

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Don’t trust what the battery data says. It’s easy to program the battery to say whatever you want, like 0 cycles/100%.

A cheap supplier will take crap cells, with a used battery gauge board and program it to look brand new. However, even a good/great supplier will have duds. And it’s generally not true that suppliers test every part. With batteries, it’s unfeasible because it takes 5-8 hours to properly test one battery. A select few vendors are investing in a big way to test their batteries but it requires a substantial financial investment.

So if you bought the battery with iFixit, give Support a call. If you bought it elsewhere, see what they are willing to do.

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댓글 1개:

Thank you Minho for this helpful expert information. I wasn't aware of those possible scamming techniques. I didn't buy it from iFixit, as I'm located in Europe. But I did use the well crafted iFixit guides to replace the volume-microphone flex cable and battery.

I will do some more testing and using of the battery to determine if it is indeed a crap one.

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Question 1 seems to be cleared.

Question 2: You may have bought a refurbished LCD screen, there was a time when Air 2 screens were short supplied, price was jacked up to $200+. Instead of buying new, most companies chose to refurbish broken screens and resell, you will notice the difference between a brand new and refurbished screen.

“The new LCD screen displays waves along the left edge when holding the iPad on its left bezel in portrait mode.” This is either caused by a bulging battery which goes back to your first question, or a slight bent LCD which would confirm my assumption of a used screen, or maybe you just applied too much pressure while holding that edge ;).

Question 3: Don’t know what brand of pre-cut adhesive you bought, I recommend using Tesa 61395 adhesive as it’s currently one of the best for phone/tablet screen repair, read this guideline written by @refectio After doing my repairs (battery and screen) I have problems

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Yes question 1 is kinda cleared, I'll use the here provided information to determine the battery's effective condition.

I also wasn't aware of the iPad Air 2 screen supply shortage, definitely good to know here.

The vender advertised it as new, but you never know for sure of course. It also has one dead pixel, so it potentially might be refurbished.

Hehe... I don't really hold the iPad with such a firm grip that would cause too much pressure. I'm gentle with my tech. :)

But simply form picking up the iPad by its left edge, which shifts the pressure point to where you grip it, causes those waves. I know all LCDs can display waves if you press hard enough, but my screen definitely seems too sensitive.

I will open the iPad back up again, and see if the screen still acts like this when no battery is potentially bulging.

But are you aware of cheaper 3rd party screens that have slightly less color saturation, slightly worse black levels, and slightly worse viewing angles with kind of a blueshift?

의

Thanks for the guide, I will definitely check that one out. Maybe that will help.

And I bought this adhesive here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pre-Cut-S...

의

There are more low-quality Air 2 screens on the market now then before. I had a customer bring one in for me to install (which I don't normally do) and I was shocked at how bad the colour was. It also suffered from the waviness on the edge.

As for the screen popping up, it's probably just not sitting right due to the flexes.

의

I see, that's also very relevant and pretty much what I wanted to know. I thought I paid "a lot" to ensure that I purchase a quality screen. But after checking iFixit prices of about $225.00 per LCD, the one I purchased seems to be "cheap" for just $118.00. I bought this screen here. Intended not to purchase something this crucial from china, but I probably still did. As it has been shipped from the UK, but from a chinese vendor:

https://www.ebay.ch/itm/LCD-Screen-For-i...

Maybe that might give you some more information about my screen.

I'll do some more testing regarding screen quality and sitting firmness, but probably have to face the harsh reality that I might have to spend WAY more than I originally intended for this simple battery and volume flex replacement operation.

But thank you for your swift and useful answers, it helped to clear things up a bit.

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