Third generation of iPad with Wi-Fi, released on March 16, 2012. Model Number A1416. Repair requires heating and careful prying.

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iPad 3 - No screen/backlight after major surgery

Hey all! New here, kinda desperate for help. My iPad 3 Wifi (32GB) was basically destroyed last year. It's been sitting in a box for about a year and I decided to have a whack at fixing it. The parts are cheap so why not? I had to replace the back case, which required a new battery (as I ruined the original while trying to remove it), a new flex cable for the power/volume buttons (since I tore part of it while trying to remove it), new screen and new digitizer. Prior to starting work, the backlight did come on and I could see part of the screen showing the time and the wallpaper, so it was booting into the lock screen, but the home button and digitizer were completely gone so I couldn't shut it off (tried the power button+volume button down solution but it never shut off), just prompted the swipe to shut off. Anyways, I've got it mostly reassembed, but upon testing prior to sealing it up, I'm getting no backlight or as far as I can tell anything on screen (by shining a light directly on it). Tested with both the old panel and the new and nothing. Plugging into my PC and my mac, iTunes seemingly recognizes it's an iPad (with name 'iPad') but because it's passcode locked, it won't go any further (which is fine). So it's obviously turning on, but I'm not getting anything at the screen.

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++https://www.7zip.vip/++


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Yea them buick lacrosse are bad lol. Have you got image if you shine a light on the

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It’s very important to always isolate the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the screen assembly. Unfortunately the iPad 3 guide does not include this step. Take a look at Step 35 of the iPad Air guide to see what I mean.

The issue is that the LCD connector has pins that have high voltages (i.e. the backlight is ~20V) and ground in very close proximity. When you fumble around trying to line up the connector plug to the receptacle, you can short out the voltage rail and cause damage to the components in the backlight circuit. If you’re lucky, then only a backlight filter is damaged but other times, the entire circuit could be affected. Either way, this type of repair requires micro-soldering and isn’t really a DIY repair.

To test for this, plug your device into a charger or an iTunes enabled computer. Then shine a bright flashlight on the screen. If you can see a dim image, then the backlight circuit has been damaged. If you can’t see an image at all, then it may be the LCD circuit that is damaged.

You can connect the original, cracked screen to confirm this. If the original screen has the backlight on, then the replacement screen has an issue. If the original screen also doesn't show the backlight, then the backlight circuit is blown.

If iTunes doesn’t recognized the device than the problem is more than just a screen or backlight issue.

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