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모델명 A1707. 2017년 6월 출시, 이 MacBook Pro는 Kaby Lake 프로세서 최대 2.8 GHz 쿼드코어 Intel Core i7 프로세서와 Turbo Boost 최대 3.8 GHz를 사용합니다.

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Fan connector contacts pulled off, anyway of not spending 1100$

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I pulled the FDC clip contacts 3 of them right off the board, this is not the logic board I see for sale and that repair shops think I'm talking about. There has to be another way of connecting the fans flexy cable to it's required +\- signal and so forth, could I just jumper it to the other fan? They want 1100$ for this, not a chance its not the board with the processors and so on its on a board you can see when the logic board is taken out. the computer was 3grand Canadian im not gonna believe that price when its not the main logic board, someone spoke of finding potential contacts with there multi meter and hooking the fan up, he stated it was doable because they use PWM. Any help would be amazing

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Can you post some pics of each connector so we can see the damage. Need both the broken off connector so we can see the contacts and the locations on the logic board. Adding images to an existing question

Here are some more pics please comment if these are not suffice, #dan #arbaman and everyone else who are taking the time to help me, I will be more timely answering from here on, I appreciate this very much

What I see is, at least for me, not enough to say if what is left there is sufficient for resoldering the connector in place, would need a view with a microscope and maybe even that might not suffice. Have a look at the answer from @oldturkey03 and relative comments, you'll likely need to test the working connector to get reference values in Ohms and in diode mode and see if you can find the same where the pads were lifted. Maybe one could do some long jumpers with enameled copper wire getting the missing circuits from the working connector. One should try and see, but in any case it's a bit of a demanding repair given the small scale. I believe there's not much else that can be recommended besides what it was already answered.

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@meticulous @arbaman take a look at the schematic. Looks like it only uses 2 of the 5 pins

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@meticulous post another image but zoom out so I can see the orientation of the contacts etc. Getting old and can’t see very well ;-)

Update (05/28/2019)

@arbaman @danj here is the fan connector etc. What do you think

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Good catch OT!

So we really only need to worry about the middle pin (ground) as pin 1 is still viable!

Don't you find it a bit strange there's just one power line there ? I wonder who takes care of the fan speed..

I don't have the schematic to check so its quite possible it only need two lines. @oldturkey03 will need to check.

@arbaman @danj I'll get back to you on that one as soon as I get done with my real job :-)

@oldturkey03 - The circuit looks a bit disjointed.

Where does FAN_LT_TACH or the FAN_LT_PWM (and RT lines) goto?

Where does PP5V_S0 link into?

I see PP3V3_S0 LEFT connects to U6000 VDD & VDD_IO via R6013 as well as CS via R6010 but where's PP3V3_SO RIGHT connect? Is there a second chip?

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Technically what you have in mind could be done but it’s going to require precision and fine tools. I don’t have a schematic for that board and although picture is good, magnification is not enough to give a clear answer. Two pads could probably be recreated by lightly scratching the adjacent surface enamel and make a jumper with copper wire. I can’t really tell where the central one of the three lifted pads should go but a microscope should probably give an answer.

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Really need to see what the connector its self looks like and a much clearer zoomed in picture of the pads to see if this is salvable.

Do you have a fine tip soldering iron as well as a hot air station or have a friend who does?

@oldturkey03 - Didn't he leave the hot air stations in his will ;-}

@danj @oldturkey03 LMBO, starting my afternoon work with a laugh :))

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It is a bit hard to say for sure, given the picture is not clear enough, but I believe a microsoldering tech can scratch and find a nub of the trace.

Then it would be possible to tin that nub, and jumper the fan cable to it directly, altogether skipping the connector.

Heat should be used very conservatively to avoid damaging the keyboard.

I would do it this way myself and charge less than the cost of replacing he keyboard (your second option) or your whole top case (your third option).

To say for sure that this is feasible would require the device to be on my bench.

So my advice to you is to find a reputed microsoldering tech near you, and let her/him have a look and quote you a price.

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