Display fix with capacitor?

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MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display 2013 하반기

6MB 공유 L3 캐시 2.0GHz, 2.3GHz, 또는 2.6GHz 쿼드-코어 Intel Core i7 프로세서 (Turbo Boost 최대 3.8GHz).

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Trevor Kemp @squidt

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게시일: 2019년 7월 15일

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Display fix with capacitor?

Hoping to revive a MacBook with a dead display. To be clear, the computer appears to run ok with an external monitor, but main display is totally black. I tried resetting the display connector and found a blown component - is it a capacitor? What part number should I try to replace it with? Is it worth trying? I’ve soldered a few small components before, but this is pushing it. Main board is 820-3547-A. Thanks for any help!

update:

Just adding some pictures of the final solder job here. Pretty horrific, so it’s amazing it works. Sorry pictures are not great, don’t really have a proper microscope or anything, this was using a cheap loupe and my phone.

Old blown component still in place:

Desoldered old component, only seeing 2 pads here that are kind of offset, so pretty sure a 4-pad 0806 is not the right component…

New component soldered in, but really it’s just a huge glob of solder, so it’s probably just bypassing the new component:

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arbaman @arbaman

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게시일: 2019년 7월 16일

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The blown component is FL8300 , with following specs: 15OHM-100MA-8.5GHZ DLP0NS, but I can’t see it anywhere available for sale on the net. You’ll probably have to find a donor board to get the replacement. BTW, 820-3547 is the I/O board, your logic board is 820-3787-A

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Thanks for the fast response! I’ll look around and see what I can find... anybody else know of an equivalent replacement component?

Trevor Kemp 의 2019년 7월 16일

The filter is like a fuse and wire. But it is designed to have a higher resistance at radio frequecnies. This allows it to block interference. It’s unlikely you’d notice much if you use a different filter at the same rated current,but it’s best to get the right component. You can use the schematics and Paul Daniels software to help you find component data.

Remember,a filter is kind of like a wire. But it does act like a fuse since it’s rated for low current. It can blow and protect the circuit if there’s a short. If you replace it with a wire,it is potentially at a higher risk.

Skye Anderson 의 2019년 7월 16일

I know this was a long time ago (~8 months), but I finally got around to readdressing this, thought I would post for anyone with a similar issue.

I convinced myself this must have been the original part, Murata DLP0NSA150HL2, which is in an 0806 package. The original component was pretty burnt up, so it was hard to really see or measure what it was. I ended up buying component EXC-14CH120U from Panasonic, because it had similar specs. When I got it, I saw it was clearly not the right package size (smaller than original, for sure). Not having much to lose, I tried to solder it on, kind of catty-cornered across the diagonal. I turned the computer on and didn't get a display. So feeling even more reckless abandon, I live soldered with the computer on, and got the display to come on! Quite honestly, I probably just bridged the whole connection with a huge glob of solder. So probably not too much filtering going on, but it's been working and I'm typing this using that computer/display right now!

Trevor Kemp 의 2020년 3월 29일

@squidt - Did you clean up the corrosion on the other pins and touchup the solder joints?

Dan 의 2020년 3월 29일

@danj - I really tried to avoid soldering on anything else, figuring I could cause more problems if I did it wrong. See updated original post with new pictures of what I ended up doing, hopefully that helps explain.

Trevor Kemp 의 2020년 3월 29일

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Thanks for the fast response! I’ll look around and see what I can find... anybody else know of an equivalent replacement component? — Trevor Kemp
The filter is like a fuse and wire. But it is designed to have a higher resistance at radio frequecnies. This allows it to block interference. It’s unlikely you’d notice much if you use a different filter at the same rated current,but it’s best to get the right component. You can use the schematics and Paul Daniels software to help you find component data.

Remember,a filter is kind of like a wire. But it does act like a fuse since it’s rated for low current. It can blow and protect the circuit if there’s a short. If you replace it with a wire,it is potentially at a higher risk. — Skye Anderson
I know this was a long time ago (~8 months), but I finally got around to readdressing this, thought I would post for anyone with a similar issue.

I convinced myself this must have been the original part, Murata DLP0NSA150HL2, which is in an 0806 package. The original component was pretty burnt up, so it was hard to really see or measure what it was. I ended up buying component EXC-14CH120U from Panasonic, because it had similar specs. When I got it, I saw it was clearly not the right package size (smaller than original, for sure). Not having much to lose, I tried to solder it on, kind of catty-cornered across the diagonal. I turned the computer on and didn't get a display. So feeling even more reckless abandon, I live soldered with the computer on, and got the display to come on! Quite honestly, I probably just bridged the whole connection with a huge glob of solder. So probably not too much filtering going on, but it's been working and I'm typing this using that computer/display right now! — Trevor Kemp
@squidt - Did you clean up the corrosion on the other pins and touchup the solder joints? — Dan
@danj - I really tried to avoid soldering on anything else, figuring I could cause more problems if I did it wrong. See updated original post with new pictures of what I ended up doing, hopefully that helps explain. — Trevor Kemp

MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display 2013 하반기

Display fix with capacitor?

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