주요 콘텐츠로 건너뛰기

모델 A1419 / EMC 2806 / Late 2014 또는 Mid 2015. 3.3 또는 3.5 GHz Core i5 또는 4.0 GHz Core i7 (ID iMac15,1); EMC 2834 late 2015 / 3.3 또는 3.5 GHz Core i5 또는 4.0 GHz Core i7 (iMac17,1) 모두 Retina 5K 화면 장착

569 질문 전체 보기

Is it possible to remove the iMac 5K stand?

Because i want to have a few more air intakes. I have asked a professional (CNC Machining) to add a few more cool air intakes, and to remoce a few aluminium Bars from the hot air “exhaust”.

Similar to this:

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/ima...


I’ve already changed the thermal paste, cleaned everything and it still runs way to hot.

Update (07/22/2019)

@danj Here’s the TG-Pro screenshot.


Block Image

이 질문에 답하기 저도 같은 문제를 겪고 있습니다

좋은 질문 입니까?

점수 0
댓글 5개

Let's get a better idea what's happening thermally. Install this great app TG Pro When the system appears to be running hard take a snapshot of the apps main window (resize it so all of the sensors & fans are visible) and post it here for us to see 기존 질문에 이미지 추가하기

What type of apps are you running that pushes your system?

How much RAM and how large a drive do you have and how full is it?

It runs with an i7 4790K, 32 GB of 1866Mhz RAM and a dual SSD Setup. The PCI-E SSD with 256GB and an additional 1TB Samsung 860 Evo (with temp sensor adapter).

I mostly use Lightroom. While editing and exporting its a pain. It slows down heavily under load. I'll add the Screenshots as soon as i get home.

Hey @danj, i already tried everything. The default settings for the fan are way too high. It starts spinning up at around 85 degrees. Under heavy load the Mac heats up to 98-108 degrees. As an electrical engineer i pulled up the Datasheet for my CPU (i7 4790K). It says that the Tcase_max is 72.72 Degree Celsius. Above that Temperature the CPU throttles the frequency quite a bit. For example exporting pics in Lightroom is a pain after one minute it's extremely slow. The first minute it runs okay. It's a design flaw. Also using MacsFanControl to speed up the fan earlier is no solution as the max speed can't cool down the CPU under heavy load.

The cool air intake is at the bottom. I'll get those wider. And the stand needs to be removed to get rid of the cross members of the exhaust. The iMac Pro has the same cooling design with two fans and an additional cool air intake at the bottom backside of the Mac. It won't mess up the airflow.

I've already taken the iMac apart and reapplied the thermal paste(Thermal Grizzly). The temp dropped by a few degrees but its still way too high. Also did a clean install as i've upgraded the SSD. No improvement. It's a shame! The solution(link) in my question post is the most helpful thing i came across yet.

@macspeedie - Bingo! You gave me a good clue here. Is the PCIe blade SSD your boot drive?

Can you humor me and give me a TG-Pro screenshot

댓글 달기

답변 1개

가장 유용한 답변

Altering the case is a bit extreme! Removing one or two of the cross members of the exhaust fan hole is about all I would do. Drilling holes will mess up the internals air flows which could cook your system more!

Let’s see what other things you can do to reduce the heat load first. Often times I solve issues like this by making other changes.

I don’t think removing the stand will offer any improvement in the systems cooling. You’ll want to make room to get access to the fan I would just go from the other side as you’ll need to remove the logic board and the fan assembly any ways so as not to damage them.

Update (07/22/2019)

OK I see two issues here!

First I suspect you are hitting a limit with your PCIe blade SSD as its your boot drive. You need to get a bigger blade SSD given what you are using your system for. Thats why Light Room is sluggish as you are running out of free space for it to use as scratch space. You also likely need to boost your RAM as well. The deeper RAM reduces the amount of Virtual RAM needed. This also gets into how many windows (apps/docs) you have open at the same time. If you can reduce the amount of active windows that will also help.

As to the second issue your heat sink has failed! The cooling liquid within it has leaked out. If you look at the CPU Proximity it is not running as hot as your CPU cores and the PECI. You’ll need to get a new heat sink.

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 2

댓글 5개:

Hey, my current setup boots from my Samsung 860 Evo SSD. Also the heatsink works fine with the GPU. It was like this from the start when i got my Mac years ago! Maybe the temp sensor is messed up?

Also, my RAM is maxed out.

Nope your heat sink is bad!

Look at the part you'll see there are two independent heat transfer tubes one for the CPU and another for the GPU. The CPU tube is band not the CPU tube which is why your GPU is not overheating.

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2806 Heat Sink and here's the guide iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Heat Sink Replacement

Given the better I/O you should be using the PCIe blade drive as your boot drive not your slow SATA drive!. As you need to go back in to replace the heat sink take the time to put in a bigger blade drive (512GB or 1 TB). Review this guide The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs jump down the Generation 4.

I'm located in Germany. Is there any possibility to get my hands on a brand new replacement heatsink?

Contact my buddies at TheBookYard See if they can scare up one for you. They're located in Liverpool, UK. They are a recycler but they often get new parts too.

Once you have the replacement with a good scale weigh them. The lighter (a few grams) one will be the bad one.

댓글 달기

귀하의 답변을 추가하세요

MacSpeedie 님은 대단히 고마워 할 것입니다.
조회 통계:

24 시간 전: 0

7일 전: 0

30일 전: 1

전체 시간: 220