I need paint for my car

Don’t get the Kia paint pen - it barely works. That said, it may be sufficient if you just have a chip in the paint and you don’t want to make it worse but I’d try and get a 3rd party one first. For moderate damage, what you really want is something like PerfectMatch from DupliColor. There are others out there who make a similar product like automotive touchup. The color code is on the driver side door or something you can often find with the VIN.

If you need to repaint the entire fender, get 1 pint of paint - possibly 2. It’s better to overestimate since the shop may not get it exactly the same if you go back. The issue with rattle cans for a major repaint is cost - you pay more and get less. It’s cheaper to buy plain clearcoat (for non metallic paint codes) and a paint gun from Harbor Freight, but you need to mix the paint yourself. Practice on junk metal first if you’ve never used this kind of paint before.

For paint, what you need to do is add a piece of tape to the doors and bumper (being careful not to intrude on the part needing paint work!) and mask any parts that do not need paint off - including the weather stripping. After taping the parts that don’t easily come off, take the bumpers off part of the way so you do not get paint on them and cover them up with plastic to be sure there will be no overspray. After dealing with starter tape and bumper removal, cover everything else like the rest of the body on that side of the car with plastic and tape. If you are painting near the grille and/or head/tail lights, mask off the grille and take the bumpers off enough of the way they won’t be covered in overspray. If you have the right tools to remove the lights, take those off since they aren’t cheap.

Once everything is protected, wetsand the part with a high grit sandpaper (800 grit) to quickly get the part started - you need something like 3M wetordry. Once it is started, wetsand the parts with 1,000-1,500 grit sandpaper progressively until the door is smooth to the touch and use a tack cloth to remove any sanding dust, and blow off any dust from the plastic covering if it got on those parts. Once the door is smooth, prime the door with at least 3 coats of primer, correcting any mistakes with 1,500 grit sandpaper as you go. You want to use a self etching primer for this, as it will help fill any scratches in. Note: If you’re correcting minor accident damage, you’ll need to work out the easy dents and use Bondo to fill the major damage in before applying primer OR paint - get it as close to factory as possible.

*Don’t be afraid of a minor error, but you want to avoid being too close otherwise you’ll get a harsh line indicating a poor repaint was done. Doesn’t need to be 100% exact but if you can get it 90% there that’s better then a lot of DIY repaints.

Depending on what color you have, you may need to use a clearcoat with reflective flakes. Most don’t require it, but if you have a SWP (Snow White Pearl) car or a similar color, you need to get matching clearcoat or it won’t look right. If you aren’t sure, check for flakes in the clearcoat in the sun. If you do not see any get a a good standard clearcoat. If you do, you will need to find a matching clearcoat specific to the color combination.