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2011년 하반기 모델, A1278 / 2.4 GHz i5 또는 2.8GHz i7 프로세서.

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Keyboard keys S to L not working

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I have an MacBook Pro late 2011 that has served perfectly until now. The keys from S to L (mainly second row of the keyboard) stopped working. They are lagging or not responding at all. The problem can be absent but then reappears. External bluetooth keyboard works ok. I have refreshed memories and done all the routine tasks. What might cause this? Loose cables, dirt, liquide etc.? How to test different options and diagnose? Hardware test didn’t find anything.

Thanks a million for anyone who can help me!


Update (07/28/2020)

I haven't yet received the new battery but in the meantime I have recognised that when starting again after longer time eg. over night I wait for couple of minutes and the keys are sort of warming up and after few minutes they work quite ok at least for a while. Still something related to the battery?

Update (07/28/2020)


I have changed the battery now and unfortunately that didn't solve the issue. So, next step will obviously be replacement of the whole keyboard, which is not an easy task and I have to rely on service (expensive in relation to the age) or consider to buy a new Mac. Sad to conclude this.

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Lets check your systems battery. Install this gem of an app! CoconutBattery take a snapshot of the apps main window and post it here for us to see Adding images to an existing question

What can happen is the battery swells up pressing on the keyboard lets see if you need a new battery first.

I'm afraid battery is not the cause because problem exists even if connected to the grid.

@fixer66 - I fully understand, trust me! It's not that simple. Lets get the output please.

Pls explain how the keyboard uses battery and how poor battery could restrict key functions? I'd really like to fix this dysfunction otherwise than by replacing keyboard or the whole top case.

@fixer66 - "What can happen is the battery swells up pressing on the keyboard ...."

I need to see the CoconutBattery output to know. Or you can just jump and replace it! MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2012) Battery and here's the guide: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 배터리 교체

This is a common issue!

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@fixer66 - Again your symptoms are telling me to remove the more obvious problem first! The swollen battery is the easy fix.

Otherwise, you'er left with the bigger issue of the keyboard getting liquid damaged. Mostly, I find people confess they had a sizable spill and more than one row of keys are effected and its not sporadic.

The S to L keys are using the same row line but there are a few more keys in the row A as well as ; as well as ' that would also be effected. Think of it like a spreadsheet where you lost a full row of information not just a few cells across or down a column.

Instead of arguing, how about diagnosing the source of the problem?

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Thanks for answering. I have now ordered a new battery that I need anyway because not charging to full 100% anymore. Interesting to see if the keyboard will be fixed by battery replacement.

Hello again

As I am about to replace the battery it seems to be quite difficult to find the right tri point (wing) Y0 screwdriver. Can I do with Y00/Y000 or any other tool the job?

Tri-point Y0 Screwdriver is the tool you need. Using a pair of small needle nosed pliers you might be able to grab it from the side and carefully ratchet it out. You'll still want the correct tool to put it in though.



I have changed the battery now and unfortunately that didn't solve the issue.

The keyboard works from time to time, mostly not. The battery seems to get quite warm what I experienced also with the original one. What might this indicate of? Next step will obviously be replacement of the whole keyboard, which is not an easy task and I have to rely on service (expensive in relation to the age) or consider to buy a new Mac.

I was hoping to have gotten a snapshot of CoconutBattery before you had made the expense of the battery.

At this point as you've added some new useful data on having a overly warm system we need to check the thermals. How about installing this app TG Pro so you can then see the thermal sensors and the fans RPM's. Again I implore you to offer up the data so we can get a better read of your problem Adding images to an existing question.

Think of it this way... You have a rash which is getting worse, you call the doctor and expect him to base his judgement on what you have told him. In the meantime the rash turned out to be something worse! He has asked you to visit the office but you declined. Now you're being rushed to the hospital to get your arm cut off. But if you had visited the doctor first a simple shot and some cream would have been all that was needed.

What can I say... I don't expect you to offer up the needed diagnostics as many times I have asked.

But, maybe you'll surprise me! Will you??

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Hi, even i have the same model of the MacBook Pro, and this keyboard damage might be because of water, or internal defects, try replacing the keyboard

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Very true! But before we make than jump lets make sure.

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In my experience, the swollen battery affects the trackpad click first, and I've not personally known it affect a keyboard, but that doesn't mean it doesn't.

At least you can easily get these macbooks apart to check stuff, though, unlike the later ones. Trivial enough to remove the bottom, and you can generally see if the battery is swollen - to actually remove the battery you need a tri-lobe screwdriver and a healthy disregard for Apple's "do not remove" sticker. These ones aren't glued in so you'd have to be pretty careless to do any damage or risk a fire or anything.

I can't remember offhand what you have to remove to get at the keyboard ribbon connector, but disconnecting and reconnecting it *might* fix it - one or other line out on that would affect a whole row of keys.

Most likely, though, is water. These keyboards are super-sensitive to water ingress, and that tends to take out entire groups of keys at a time. It seems nigh on impossible to revive a keyboard that's had water get in, and, while replacement keyboards are available on ebay etc., there's a reason Apple don't bother and just replace the whole top cover.

There's an iFixit guide. You need to remove the motherboard, peel off the adhesive keyboard backlight assembly, then undo about sixty little screws. It takes a while. I had to do this on a 17" 2011 MBP, but for ages I just used a separate bluetooth keyboard instead. The water that had got into it was the *tiniest* splash, the sort of thing that could easily happen without you even noticing - e.g. someone slopping a small amount of water from a glass in a cafe while you were looking the other way or something. It'll work fine for a few minutes, then start getting intermittent, then get steadily worse as the water works its way into the layers of the keyboard.

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