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Repair information and support for GE Profile Refrigerators.

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Freezer temp displays wrong temp of -9, won't adjust

Saludos…

Refrigerator Model: GSHF6HGDBCWW.

Symptoms: Slow ice cube production, Ice cream melts although meats keep frozen.

Problem: Can’t adjust freezer temperature. When pressing warmer only adjusts to -2 from -9. Freezer is nowhere -9 degrees inside, actually hovers around 30 - 32 degrees when taking measurements at the ice maker level which may accounts for extremely slow ice cubes production. When checking again temperature freezer side always “defaults” to -9. Note: refrigerator side adjusts fine and is keeping temperature were set and the display is quite accurate.

Actions taken: replaced main control board (WR55X11080 ), both freezer side thermistors: one on top of the evaporator coil and the other in the freezer wall. Technician replaced compressor gas tube which was corroded and had leaked gas. The freezer problem happened long before compressor gas leak so it isn’t related.

Appreciate any ideas to fix this… Thxs!…

JSR:.

Jaime Santiago, jsrshaman@cs.com

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Hi,

Since you have replaced both of the freezer temperature sensors and the electronic control board and presumably the refrigerant gas in the sealed system was recharged to the correct pressure when the compressor tube was fixed here are some more things to check:

a). Check that the ice chute door flapper part #62 - freezer door parts diagram is closing properly.

If the door flapper is broken, it could allow the outside air to enter the freezer compartment which can prevent the compartment getting to the desired temp. A tell tale sign may be a frost buildup around the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever or the tabs that hold it in place may be broken.

b). Check that the condenser fan (part#650 sealed system and motherboard diagram) is operating and that the condenser coils (part #730 sealed system and motherboard diagram) are clean and free of dust etc.

If the fan is not operating when it should (it is usually thermostatically (thermistor) controlled so it only operates when necessary) or the condenser coils are covered in dust then the refrigerant cannot dissipate the heat it has absorbed when it passes through the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment as readily and this can affect the cooling efficiency of the sealed system.

c). Check that the evaporator unit is being defrosted correctly at least once every 10 hours or so. If all the frost is not being melted off the evaporator unit during the defrost cycle there may be a problem with the defrost heater (part #230 - freezer section)

d). If all the above check out OK then verify the wiring from the two temperature sensors back to the control board just in case there is a wiring problem and one of the sensors may actually be disconnected due to a wiring fault e.g. an open circuit somewhere in the wiring harness which may be affecting what the readings are and how the control board reacts to them..

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Yup... all of the above was checked when the compressor system was serviced. Coils where cleaned, defroster checked, no condensation on the flapper/dispensing opening.. . The big mystery which the technician couldn.t figure out is the temperature displayed of -9 degrees which he theorized not letting the freezer system to work as it should because it is signaling freezer temp is way below what it currently is. Now, do you know if having an open circuit from either on of the temp sensors may explain the -9 constant lecture and not being able to have the keypad adjustment go above -2? Also, is there a schematic than I can find showing the control board pinout for the sensors? Thanks a zillion for your comments and interest. Appreciate them... JSR:.

@jsrshaman

Don't know how the control board is configured to use both of the sensor readings to get to the displayed temp but one thought is that IF they are connected in parallel on the control board then the two readings combined will be less than the individual from each one (Ohm's law for parallel resistors). If the sensors are NTC type (Negative Temp Coefficient) then their resistance value decreases as the temperature increases BUT if one were open circuit the resistance would be higher indicating a colder temp.

A simple example of this is having two 100 Ohm resistors in parallel = 50 Ohms which indicates a certain temp. If one was open circuit the resistance = 100 Ohms which is a colder temp. The temp display may be a direct correlation of the total resistance reading. Hopefully you get what I mean by all this.

This is only what I think and not what I know is how it works in your refrigerator ;-)

Can't find a schematic so the best that I can suggest is that you check the harness wire colours at the sensors. With most refrigerators one side of the sensor is wired to earth and the other wire goes back to the control board.

The "earthed" wire doesn't have to be earthed near the sensor though, if you get what I mean.

Disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then access the sensor(s) and find which wire has a full earth on it i.e. no resistance (0.00 Ohms) to earth - a short circuit between wire and earth (chassis of fridge). The other wire will go to the control board. (see Note: below)

Usually it isn't a direct wire but may go through other harness connectors to get there but again usually it remains the same colour. You would need to find all similar coloured wires at the control board and use the Ohmmeter to test which is the one (or both, 2 wires then connected at different terminals on the control board) as there should be 0.00 (zero) Ohms i.e. a short circuit, when testing from end to end, i.e. sensor to control board

If you can't find the wire at all for only one sensor (hopefully not both) then you may have to start tracking it down. Sometimes there are harness connectors near the kickplate at the front but it might depend on the model.

Note: If neither wire has a full earth on it check the other sensor first to see if it has a full earth on either wire. If neither sensor has a full earth on it but maybe a resistive earth, (measure between earth point (chassis - bright metal point) and the wire, then both sensors should measure the same resistance on one wire and this means that both sensor wires on each sensor go back to the control board and it is a loop measurement and not a resistive earth measurement but the principle may be the same. Both measurements are calculated to get the temp reading so you would then have to then prove that 4 wires get from the 2 sensors to the control board and not only the 2 if a resistive earth measurement was used.

That's about all I can suggest.

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