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I have replaced the timer as well as the cycling thermostat. What I have discovered is that the auto dry option doesn’t work at all but the time dry option will work just doesn’t advance timer.
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Hi @ashleywilson1,
If the timer won’t advance even after replacing the timer you need to check that it is getting the power necessary to operate.
Here’s the tech sheet for the dryer that shows the wiring path(s) for the timer motor.
If it fails to operate regardless of whether the dryer is set to regular or auto then you need to check the white/blue wire connection from the timer switch to the timer motor and the black wire connection from the timer motor to the power supply input (L1). Check both ends of both wires.
Be safety aware when testing. Disconnect the power from the dryer and use an Ohmmeter to test the wiring for continuity.
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Unfortunately all wiring was good. Wondering if I the timer I ordered was bad. ??♀️
Use an Ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the timer motor windings.
Placing the meter across where the black and white/blue wires connect to the timer motor should be the windings.
Ensure that the power is disconnected from the machine before testing.
I don't know what the resistance should be but it shouldn't measure OL or infinity i.e. open circuit when testing with an Ohmmeter.
Alternatively check if there is voltage getting to and through the timer motor - be safety aware as you're testing for lethal AC voltage
@jayeff all wiring appears to be working correctly. Started over from the beginning and discovered that the new timer doesn’t even cut dryer on using the auto dry feature.
It's there in the wiring diagram.
When on auto dry the power for the timer motor comes via the timer switch t-f contacts operated (or closed) so the power for the timer motor goes to the heater connection point i.e. L1 > black wire > timer motor > white/blue wire > t-f contacts closed (t-x contacts will be open) > orange wire to heater and then through the 3 thermostats to neutral.
If the heater is working then check the timer switch contacts t-f for continuity when closed and then the orange wire/connection through to the heater.
If the heater is not working then check the heater because the power for the timer motor can come through it as well from L2
Timed dry is via the timer switch t-x contacts i.e. L1 > black wire > timer motor > white/blue wire > t-x contacts closed (t-f contacts open) > white/black wire > L2.
Sounds like moisture sensor. It may just need cleaning. Google your model and find it's location inside drum walls. Unplug dryer before working on.. It should have a metal contact exposed so the moisture from the laundry rubs it. Clean lightly with steel wool. May be tarnished. Also you'll find a area with holes. The lint is captured thru these holes. Vacuum thoroughly. Unplug dyer before disassembling anything. I'd disassemble lint trap housing and clean/vacuum thoroughly then reassemble. Lookout for metal objects where lint filter inserts for foreign objects . Example: coins, nails, screws. ( possibly left in pockets) inspect closely with flashlight. These can short out the dryer or start a fire. Again Google your model for locations and instructions. Incidentally the loose center screw you mentioned on the plug terminal block must be tight. A loose connection will arc and thus be a fire hazard as well as cause operation issues.
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So after checking all the wiring I decided to back up and start over. The new timer does not work on auto dry. Not sure what’s going on at this point because it works on timed dry.
Ashley Wilson 의