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MacBook Pro 15": replacing battery beyond my skill; recommendations?

I bought a used 2014 15" MacBook Pro (2.8GHz, 16/500) in November (four months ago), near-mint condition. Having just had to replace a swollen battery in a 2015 15" MBPro, in addition to running ASD and other tests on this one I also opened it up to check the battery, which looked fine, like new. I also ran coconutBattery on it, which reported 4 cycles, 100%/100% (unfortunately I didn't keep a screenshot).

Three months later, I noticed that the trackpad was getting to be difficult to click, so I opened it again, and the battery is now swollen – not as badly as the one in the 2015 (or the one in a 2013 15" MBPro I also have waiting for attention). I'm now using it with the bottom case under it but not attached, as that would make the trackpad hard to use – and I'm not sure if I could replace all the tiny screws anyway with the battery so swollen.

What causes these batteries to swell? I've now owned three 15" Retina MBPros, and all have had this problem. I did do some intensive work with this MBPro not long after I got it, downloading and converting some videos. However, given that it's a MacBook "Pro", one would think it should be capable of such work without suffering damage.

This MBPro sits on my desk and is on pretty much 24/7, though in sleep at night and periodically during the day. (I also got a 13" 2014 MBPro in December, also in good condition, and its battery is still like new; but I haven't done any of the video work with it. Now I'm hesitant to do so; but it is something I'll want to do again sometime. Do I need to get a fan or something?)

I'm attaching a current coconutBattery readout. The ~90° temperature is about normal (I've installed TG Pro to monitor it, and indeed it does get very hot – CPU over 100°C briefly – when doing the video conversion.) I have a coconutBattery readout from three weeks ago that shows 99% battery life, so it's lost a little since then.

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Anyway, so I now have to replace the battery in my nice new (to me) MacBook Pro. I know iFixIt offers instructions, tools, and batteries (though I'm a little dismayed to see in a search for "battery" in this forum how many of the replacements seem to be faulty). But the job is really beyond my skill level. It'll cost ~$250 to get it from Apple, which is probably the best bet, but I don't really need the included new top case with keyboard and trackpad. And naturally I'd like to spend less if possible. Can anybody recommend a battery replacement service that does reliably good, guaranteed work and is cheaper than Apple?

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As you can see, battery info says it’s a 7 years old battery with only 7 charging cycles, that’s likely the reason for swelling. When left uncharged for long time, Lythium batteries get fully discharged first and then voltage drops, causing cells deterioration. Process is irreversible. I wouldn’t know whom to suggest for battery replacement, you better look locally for someone who does such job but please consider a battery on iFixit costs already 90$ on its own. Replacing a 15” battery requires removing logic board, unglueing, reinstall logic board, testing for a couple of days, removing logic board again, gluing new battery to topcase, reinstall logic board, if all goes well; it’s tedious and time consuming, whoever will do the job will need to be paid decently for all the work involved, including potentially redoing all and everything in case the battery shows faults, which is not to be excluded. Don’t expect to save much, unless you do the job yourself.

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@arbaman: Thanks for your response. Yes, I'm having a crash course in batteries and their management. I'd heard that it is a good idea to cycle the battery now and then, but didn't understand how crucial it is to do so.

I spent a couple hours on the phone yesterday with Apple, talked to five different people before a Senior Advisor advised me that Apple simply does not repair 2014 Mac models any more, as they're now on the "Vintage" list. Oh. So my experience with the 2015 MBPro last summer cannot be repeated with this 2014 MBPro.

So I looked around locally, found a guy who looks good – and who says he has the battery in stock, and can do the job for $200, less than Apple would have cost, and a lot less trouble. But when I took the computer to him, he suggested trying several forced complete cycles on the battery, saying he'd seen cases where that solved the swelling problem. A good sign, I felt, that he didn't just take my money, but tried to help me first.

So I'm trying that, though I suspect I'm going to have to go ahead and get the battery replaced. So far I have determined that when running the computer in Target Disk Mode (his suggestion), the battery lasts about 2½ hours, which is certainly not good, though it wouldn't matter much since I never use it as a portable. He even said he could just disconnect the battery, or take it out without replacing it, if I'm using it always connected to power. But maybe I'll need to take it somewhere someday.

As I wrote, I also have a 2013 15" MBPro – which is what I'm using now while dealing with the 2014's problems – whose battery is very swollen. I'm thinking I may try doing the replacement myself with iFixIt's kit (it also needs RAM replaced on the logic board) one of these days. I've been struggling with chronic illness for some years, but improving lately, so hope to have the energy to take on such a job at some point – so long as it's not my primary computer.

I also have a 13" 2014 MBPro, whose battery shows 756 cycles (which would be one every 3-4 days throughout its life), but looks like new (I haven't determined how long the battery lasts, but will soon). Anyway, I'm resolved to start cycling batteries on a regular basis.

Thanks again.

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Keeping a battery charged is absolutely essential to preserve its health. It's easily done when the battery is charged to 70/80 % and then disconnected from the device, discharge is minimal in proper storage conditions.

But, when connected to a logic board, you have always on circuits keeping the device ready to start with the pressure of a switch that keeps consuming power even when the device is off. That has to be taken in consideration and ideally battery should be charged when it gets down at abt 20% to be on the safe side.

Personally I don't have experience of a swollen battery getting back to normal; it's easier that it keeps swelling until it eventually pops. Meantime, gas puts pressure on battery inner elements and may cause a short, that might be dangerous too.

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Battery lining is a relatively simple multy-layer film kept together with glue, thus it's inevitable that it stretches until glue gives up and let the fumes out. It might seem back to normal, but it's usually just because gases eventually found their way out and disperse in the air little by little.

I don't know how dangerous the fumes are, but I wouldn't want to have a swollen battery in a working machine, nor around the place I live or work. A battery is not worth the risk of electrical or chemical hazard.

Nor has to be neglected that even if a battery gets shorted without making major damage, it may yet damage the logic board charging circuit.

As you can see reasons not to underestimate a faulty battery are several, all of undeniable importance.

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Follow up: I'm happy to report that the procedure I mentioned above – a series of forced complete cycles – has solved the swollen battery problem, at least reducing the swelling (though the battery casings are still enlarged, having been stretched by the swelling) to where the lower case could be reattached, and the trackpad works fine. Procedure (h/t Petr Jerabek at Santa Fe Mac Repair):

1. Fully charge battery 6-8 hours, use it with power adapter plugged in for the whole time.

2. Disconnect power adapter, then fully discharge the battery, by starting into either the Startup Manager with option ⌥ key, or into target disk mode with T key (if MacBook has firewire/thunderbolt), and letting it sit until it shuts down. After a few minutes, press the power button; it it starts, let it discharge again until the battery is completely discharged.

3. Let the computer rest overnight (8 hours) in the fully discharged state.

4. Reconnect the power adapter, then immediately reset the SMC (see "How to reset the SMC of your Mac"). (If you're quick enough, the adapter's indicator light won't turn orange until you release the keys used in the SMC reset.) Let it fully charge for 6-8 hours, keeping the power adapter connected during that time (can be used while charging). After it is fully charged, you might check the battery's status e.g. with coconutBattery.

I repeated this procedure 6 times, looking at the battery a few times to see if the swelling had reduced (the lower case was under the computer but not attached, as if it were the trackpad wouldn't click). After the 6th time around, the battery was pretty well flat again, so I reattached the lower case, and have been happily using it for a week now.

As noted above, the battery in this 7 year old MacBook Pro had all of 7 cycles – which I've now learned was a bad idea (I'm working on changing my battery habits), and was at 98% of design capacity; at the end of the procedure it showed 13 cycles, 96%. Just looked now and it's up to 100%. Don't know what that means. I also learned that the battery will last for 2½ hours when discharging in target disk mode (which I'd guess is power intensive for some reason?). Since I use it 99% on my desk, that's not a problem.

I tried the same procedure with a 2013 15" MacBook Pro which also has a swollen battery (somewhat worse and for longer than the 2014). It had no effect. (One of these days I'll get an iFixIt kit and see if I can replace the battery myself.) So it doesn't work on all cases. But if you have a swollen battery that's a recent occurrence, this procedure could save you $200.

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