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YLOD Fix, how many times will this work?

I have fixed the PS3 once, will it work if I fix it again? How many times? Can I leave the PS3 apart to add airflow?

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This question was migrated from https://meta.ifixit.com/Answers.

@guardian10 , @nytryder26 , @oscarsp where did you find this one :) ? It's almost 10 years old and was hiding good. Awesome find guys....

@oldturkey03 Sometimes I explore the back end of the Answers Forum. I am trying to get my archivist badge.

@guardian10 that was a pretty awesome find. Hope the poor person who posted it in the wrong area got his PS3 fixed:-) Did you want to answer it? I can remove my answer without any issues.

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Yohance Perry, I do recognize this to be a very old question but for whatever reason it just showed up here. I am certain you have your PS3 fixed/sold by now. Anyhow here is my answer and its just for completion sake. SInce we do not know how you fixed it we assume you are using the Yellow Light of Death Repair from Yellow Light of Death Repair - iFixit Repair Guide or a derivative thereof. First you do need to remember that this will only work if your YLOD is caused by solder fractures and if they are not to extreme. Reflowing any board with a heat gun is not an exact science and as such does have a certain amount of failure. The proper fix for this would most likely be a professional reball. Anyhow, the biggest reason for failure to reflow is not enough consistent heat. There is a fine line between reflowing and absolutely melting the solder, so one needs to be aggressive without going over board. If nothing else, get a couple of temperature probes and see what heat you generate. You also need to make sure that you apply the thermal paste properly etc. Follow the guide from here and keep on trying. If at first you don't succeed....:). Hope this helps, good luck.

If that does not resolve the issue you know that you most likely have a processor error. Not sure about which reball kit you have. A proper reball needs the right temps and times to properly function so make sure hat you have the right profile for your processor as well as the right stencils for the solder balls etc. Here is the concern with all of this. The proper fix for this would most likely be a professional reball with a new IC (unlikely you can find one. The real reason for this is the design of the IC. It is a flip Chip design which has shown multiple failures for the PS3 as well as Xbox360 (as well as computers alike) which uses the same design for their IC. Here is a very "quick and dirty" explanation of what causes most of the YLOD/RROD. It is not always a failure of the solder balls which connect the Flip Chip BGA package to the motherboard. It does happen and you can see why on here More commonly however is that the failure is due to the chip design itself.

Block Image

As you can see the "bumps" are what actually connects the die to the substrate to make the chip complete. If these bumps fail, the die does no longer make contact with the substrate and thus no contact with the circuit board. The chip has failed.

Block Image

So what happens is that the chip heats up (due to poor design of the ventilation and heatsinks of the console. Does not matter if it is a PS3, a Xbox or some of the Mac laptop's) and the bumps that connect the chip to the substrate lose contact and your chip (in this case processor) fails. The heating of the chip or a reflow actually reshapes (most of the time) the bumps to the point of making contact again. That is the reason why some reflows just do not work. The connection between the IC and the substrate has absolutely failed. In those cases you will need a new processor. Not the most scientific explanation but I hope it makes sense to you. Can you do a repeat on this; sure you can try and see what happens. You are not going to make it any worse.

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