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Repair guides and disassembly information for laptops manufactured by ASUS.

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Laptop sometimes not turning on even when plugged in...

So my Asus laptop has for a while had off moments where the power button just doesn't appear to work, plugging in the charger, holding the power button down intermittently usually gets it going again after 5 minutes, but yesterday it just stopped altogether. With charger plugged in, there's no lights on at all, not even the charger light, and power button not working even if I hold it down for a while. Nothing, nada.

This morning, after letting it charge overnight I held the power button down for a minute or 2 and suddenly it turned on, and was working fine all morning. Hours later I've come back to it, lid has been down and it's been unplugged which shouldn't wear the battery down much. . Now I have nothing again.

But I've suddenly become aware of the charger noise. No obvious noise when the charge is switched on, but when I plug it into the laptop it starts whirring loudly.

Oddly... when I hold the power key down on the laptop, the noise changes from a loud whir to a strained whir. Which tells me the power cable recognises the laptop and it recognises the power key and is trying to respond... the charger is only a few months old as the last one had a dodgy wire, but the fact that it worked this morning tells me it isn't completely dead. I can't tell if the problem is isolated to the charger, the laptop or the power button, or if there is more than 1 problem at play here.

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Hi @michellerawlins,

What is the model number of the laptop?

Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)?

It's an ASUS UX303U Notebook PC and I don't know

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Hi @michellerawlins

It seems like there may be a problem with the laptop's DC-In jack (supplier example only to show part)

What can sometimes happen is that the inner +ve connector of the jack, fractures internally and this opens the path between the charger and the motherboard. If this happens then there's no power being supplied to the motherboard i.e. no lights and the battery cannot be charged either. The connection in the jack being only a fracture means that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

If this is the case then the jack will have to be replaced as it cannot be repaired.

To do this the motherboard would have to be removed from the laptop case. Here's a teardown video that may help.

Having a DMM means that you can prove that there's steady i.e. not intermittent 19VDC at the output plug of the charger, just in case there's is a problem with it (I realize you said it isn't that old but it pays to rule it out nevertheless) and that you can prove continuity of the +ve and -ve connections from the input to the output of the jack. You would still need to remove the motherboard though to prove continuity through the jack as it is soldered onto the board.

If the jack is OK then further testing on the motherboard would be necessary to find out what and where the problem is. You would need to source the schematics for the motherboard.

If doing this yourself seems too daunting, contact a reputable, professional laptop repair service about the problem

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Thank you, yea I definitely don't feel confident fiddling with the motherboard, to the laptop repair stop it's gonna have to be. It is working again today! Sounds like you're saying the problem is within the laptop's motherboard and not the charger, which is what I suspected.

@michellerawlins

Might still pay to check the charger with a DMM (do you know anyone who has one and could do this for you?).

It could be a fractured charger cable as the symptoms would be the same. Better to eliminate it as being the problem before taking it in for repair

I am not familiar with them but will ask around, and I'd be looking for a steady 19vDC to prove the charger is not the problem?

@michellerawlins

What you do is plug the charger into the wall outlet only, turn on the outlet if it has an on/off switch and do not connect the charger to the laptop.

Then with the DMM set to measure 200V DC you insert the meter's red +ve test lead into the barrel of the charger's output cable plug and with the meter's black lead you touch the outside of the barrel.

You should measure 19V DC. Then whilst still measuring you gently flex the charger's output cable where it leaves the body of the charger and also grasping the plug tightly, flex the cable where it enters the plug itself. The voltage should NOT vary. If it comes and goes (make sure the meter leads are still touching) then it could be a fractured charger cable.

The reason why I said the 200V DC scale on the DMM is that the next lowest scale is usually 20V so if the charger output was higher than the specified 19V (which is also not good it it were say 25V for example) you may not be able to see the measurement (if >20V) whereas on the 200V scale you will.

Hopefully this makes some sense to you. It should to someone who has a DMM and will do it for you. It would only take a couple on minutes at best.

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