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nintendo switch won't turn on

I put my console on charge overnight with the original charger, but in the morning I noticed that the console wasn't turning on, but I noticed that the screen was “on” but black. After that I managed to turn off the screen but I couldn't turn it on again. When opening the console, I tested some components and found two capacitors and one resistor shorted, as shown in the images. I removed all 3 and the capacitors did not present a short outside the board, but the resistor did. I removed 2 integrated components responsible for the load but the short did not disappear.

I will post the image indicating the components that are shorting out and if anyone can help me, I will be very grateful.

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The resistors could be 0ohm, which would explain the short (and not uncommon for development / debug purposes). With all of the components you mention removed, were you still observing a short when probing the board? There are a lot of possibilities here but I would be more suspicious of an active component (integrated circuit, FET, diode, etc...) failing than passives like resistors and capacitors. I'd also do as much visual inspection as possible, even if that meant taking the device further apart.

@chrisgreen At first I found the problem. The problem apparently lies with the integrated P13USB which is located on the back of the board. I removed the integrated part from the board and the short disappeared, I have already ordered a new part and as soon as I change it I will post the new situation. Thank you so much for your answer!

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As @chrisgreen noted, the resistor could very well be zero ohm. I am not SUPER familiar with Switch boards, but familiar enough. And just looking at the board, there's a very strong possibility that's the case. It looks like it's on a line that has 2 pins coming out of the connector to a very large plane. So, My guess is this is in fact a zero ohm resistor.

First thing I could check is your charge port. Look and see if any of the pins in there are bent. A flashlight and some magnification will help, but if a pin is bent and bridging into another pin, it can cause these kinds of shorts.

Aside from that, I wonder if your issue is a chip rather than a specific capacitor. I am not familiar enough with where the components around those chips lead, (and I think my partner would murder me if I dissected our Switch just to do some board mapping). But the two chips where your shorted caps are located are both related to charging and/or USB C. The BQ chip (the one in the second picture) is specifically the battery charger and the M92T36 chip in the first pic is related to USB C function. So either of those could also be related to this issue.

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At first I found the problem. The problem apparently lies with the integrated P13USB which is located on the back of the board. I removed the integrated part from the board and the short disappeared, I have already ordered a new part and as soon as I change it I will post the new situation. Thank you so much for your answer!

@wagnermvaz That was going to be literally my next question, if you had checked the P13USB yet. Sounds like you got there anyway so kudos. Let us know how you make out once you get the new one installed. :)

hello. I still have a problem with my switch after replacing the integrated M92 and PI3Usb. I have some voltages at the measurement points on the board, but I don't know if they are correct. Before connecting the battery, I have a measurement of 5.5v and when I connect the battery it takes on the battery voltage, so I believe it is not charging the battery. If anyone can help me with the voltages that should be at the measurement points, I would be very grateful. I don't have any shorts on the board, but nothing works

I don't have the 3.3v voltage on pin 6 of the 92t, I only have 4.4v on pin 5

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