이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.
필요한 것
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Disconnect the power cord of the printer
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Open the printer as you would to access the USB port.
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Pull out the rear end of the hood holder (see picture two). After that you can remove the top part of the hood holder.
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Now remove the hood holder completely.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Next remove the cover on the left side of the printer (lift the right side of the cover first).
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Unplug the black ribbon cable, the blue and the white plugs from its sockets and unscrew the cable which is attached with a screw (see second image)
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Remove the red and white plugs from its sockets as shown in picture three.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Flip the plastic part shown in picture one up to the top part of the printer
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Now you can easily remove the top of the printer by pushing it away from the printer (not up).
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the screws connecting the black plastic cover to the printer (see image)
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Remove the cover
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove the little PCB as shown in image one by lifting it up. Be careful not to damage the pins connecting the PCB with the motherboard
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Unscrew the two screws fixing the metal cover to the motherboard as shown in picture two.
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Remove the metal cover to get full access to the motherboard
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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On the right side of the motherboard there is a coin shaped capacitor. In picture two you can see a detailed view of the capacitor (5.5V 0.22F).
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Note which polarity of the capacitor is facing which side on a piece of paper.
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Remove the capacitor.
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Looking at you piece of paper, solder the new capacitor in THE RIGHT DIRECTION (POLARITY) to the remaining wires from the removed capacitor.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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After reassembling the printer, reconnect the power cord.
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The first few times you start you may encounter the same behaviour as before the repair. After two or three restarts my printer worked fine again.
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I hope this guide helps. Happy repairing. If something is unclear or you have suggestions how to phrase things better (engl. is not my mother tongue) please leave a comment.
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다른 33명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 40개
How does one make sure that the new capacitor lasts longer than the original? This doesn’t look like a procedure I would want to repeat every 2 years. Did Brother use low quality capacitors on these printers? I don’t know how to tell if a capacitor is low quality or high quality.
I could imagine that the voltage tolerances are a bit wider than the maximum 5.5V the capacitor is specified for. So I would go for a 6+V 0.22F cap if it is available in the same housing.
try to use a higher capacity e.g. 1F, that might last longer.
Fabulous guide, thank you! Used on my MFC-J4510DW. I went as far as removing the printed circuited board all the way to be able to properly de-solder the failed capacitor and then put the new capacitor legs in the thru-holes on the board. Else the capacitor would sit too high and the metal shield over the board would not fit. The new NEC capacitor is considerably bigger (still 5.5V 0.22F). Hopefully it will last longer. I’m hoping it will also fix the WiFi disconnection problem that is often reported. So far, so good.
Brilliant advice and clarity for the repair. My MFC J4420DW won’t power up and all the indicators suggest the ‘power supply’ is faulty.
Does anyone know if I change the Capacitors on this board, will it resolve the issue? Any comments extremely appreciated.