1. Pull up on both sides of the the eyepiece cap. It should come off with little pressure.
    • Pull up on both sides of the the eyepiece cap. It should come off with little pressure.

  2. Remove both screws hidden under the viewfinder eyepiece cap.
    • Remove both screws hidden under the viewfinder eyepiece cap.

    • Peel off the rubber grip on the back by grasping one of the corners and pulling out.

    • Once removed, a hidden screw is revealed.

    • Remove both visible screws from the rear of the camera.

    • Remove both labeled screws from the bottom of the camera.

    • When lifting the panel, make sure not to lift it too high, since you'll run the risk of tearing the cable, or damaging the connector on the board.

    • Flip the lock on the flex cable connector up with a spudger.

    • The front panel should pop off now that the cable has been disconnected.

    • When reassembling the device, make sure to insert the left side of the front panel first, since it has a small lip that needs to fit under the left part of the camera case.

    • Disconnect all the labeled connectors by opening their latches.

    • Remove the flex cable that connects the logic board to the secondary control board.

    • Pull the small green connector out of its socket. Be careful when removing it, as it is possible to tear the tiny wires running to the connector.

    • Disconnect the two hidden connectors under the top connector labeled in pink.

    • Disconnect the third hidden connector.

    • Remove the three screws from the edges of the board.

    • Flip the board up and out so that the ground connection can be unscrewed.

    • Open the connector for the CF slot.

    • Remove the two screws holding the top of the CF slot in place.

    • Remove the one last screw holding the CF slot in on the bottom.

    • Remove the CF slot.

    • This is one of several issues with this CF connector. This pin is severely bent.

    • When the pin is bent this badly, it's very likely that it will snap when you try to rebend it.

    • I was able to relatively easily replace the pin that snapped with a section of solid-core wire that I got from an ethernet cable.

    • Some pins had gotten pushed in far enough that they ripped up traces, so it was necessary to reroute their connections from the bottom vias.

    • To be able to solder to the vias, you have to scratch the solder mask off of them with a sharp tool like an Xacto knife.

    • Then it can finally be soldered to with a high gauge wire. I took a section of larger stranded-core wire, cut it, and unwound it.

    • Taping the connector down to your work surface makes it easier to work on the small solder joints required here.

    • This is one of the cases in which I was able to reuse a pin that was pushed in but not broken.

    • When soldering to vias, note that from the rear (the area where all the pin connections are soldered to), the two pin connections on the far right and far left are ground, and don't connect down to these vias.

    • Make sure not to leave large lumps of protruding solder like the one here. I ended up having to slim it down, since it touched the metal body of the slot when I put it back together.

    • Hopefully when you reassembly your EOS 20D, you won't be getting the "Err CF" message anymore.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Alec M

회원 가입일: 2016년 05월 08일

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