주요 콘텐츠로 건너뛰기

이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.

필요한 것

  1. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 1 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 1 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond.

    • Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

  2. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 2 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 2 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 2 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case.

    • Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel.

    • This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer.

    • The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

  3. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone:

    • Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.

    • Only make very shallow cuts in the upper left corner, prying deeply can damage the front-facing camera.

    • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

  4. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 4 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 4 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply.

    • Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.

    • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

  5. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 5 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 5 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 5 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.

    • There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.

  6. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 6 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 6 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 6 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.

  7. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 7 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 7 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 7 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners.

    • Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.

  8. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 8 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 8 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display.

    • If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as a fragile ribbon cable still connects it to the phone's motherboard.

  9. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 9 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 9 단계, 이미지 2/2
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    구매
    • Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable.

    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  10. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 10 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  11. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 11 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 11 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    • During reassembly, pause here and replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

  12. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 12 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.

  13. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 13 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 13 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera.

    • Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.

  14. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 14 단계, 이미지 1/1
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    구매
    • Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.

    • Remove the following screws securing the midframe:

    • Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws

    • One 4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  15. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 15 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 15 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button.

    • Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.

  16. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 16 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 16 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 16 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge.

    • When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone.

    • As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.

  17. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 17 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 17 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

  18. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 18 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 18 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard.

  19. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 19 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 19 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 19 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Insert a paperclip or SIM eject tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and push until the SIM card tray pops out.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

  20. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 20 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws.

  21. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 21 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 21 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 21 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard.

  22. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 22 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 22 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Pry up the motherboard using a plastic opening tool.

    • Remove the motherboard.

  23. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 23 단계, 이미지 1/3 : 23 단계, 이미지 2/3 : 23 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Flip the motherboard over.

    • Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable.

    • The motherboard is now completely detached from the phone.

  24. 이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오

    : 24 단계, 이미지 1/2 : 24 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the rear camera press-fit connector.

    • Remove the rear camera from the motherboard.

    • If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.

    • Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.

결승점

다른 7명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Blake Klein

회원 가입일: 01/29/17

70,356 평판

안내서 50개 작성하였습니다

댓글 17개

Does anyone know if replacing the camera unit fixes the problem with the camera’s ‘fatal error’ issue? I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the camera unit that’s bad, or if there are other parts involved.

Sean McCay - 답글

I just replaced my rear camera on pixel 2 and I can confirm YES it does fix it!

John Feng -

Well, I completed the repair on the camera but cannot confirm that it worked because I messed up my display which costs too much to replace :( That thing is super delicate I guess. I’m thoroughly upset.

Sean McCay -

Yes. This fixed my Pixel 2 camera crashing issue. My original symptom was that the autofocus stopped working properly. Then a month or so later the rear camera would crash 49 out of 50 times I opened it (completely unusable). Many people online swear this is a software issue caused by an android update but because I had that focus issue crop up first I suspected my issue was physical damage. I’m generally pretty careful with my phone, it lives in an official case. The only potentially damaging behaviour my phone is exposed to is my placing it in a windscreen mounted phone holder. Perhaps the repeated vibration can break something. Now my camera is fixed I will continue to place it in the phone holder and report back if it breaks again. For science. BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE SCREEN. The guide is not being overly cautious about the screen removal. I broke my screen removing it and turned my $50 camera job into a $200 job with a new screen. Still worth it but I wish I’d heeded the warnings and cautions.

Alex Lawson -

Alex, you may be onto something! There have been many reports of motorcycle riders breaking their smartphone cameras after they’ve mounted their smartphones for prolonged periods. The optical stabilization hardware on these camera modules is pretty fragile. I suspect repeated vibration can definitely result in breaking some very delicate wires in the OIS or flex cables.

Arthur Shi -

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