이 버전에는 잘못된 편집 사항이 있을 수 있습니다. 최신 확인된 스냅샷으로 전환하십시오.
필요한 것
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
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Press firmly to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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iOpener를 가열하여 스크린 하단 가장자리에 1분 동안 적용하세요.
It would be helpful to know for how long ally the heated pad
Agreed, my friend from the past.
If you click on the "iOpener" link, it tells you to heat it up for 30 seconds, and if you're using a microwave with a carousel, make sure it moves freely.
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스크린 이음새: 이 이음새는 스크린을 휴대폰의 나머지 부분과 분리합니다. 이 이음새를 비집지 마세요.
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베젤 이음새: 스크린을 보호하기 위해 설계된 플라스틱 베젤이 프레임과 만나는 지점입니다. 플라스틱 클립으로 고정되어 있습니다. 이곳을 비집어야 합니다.
Please remove the image of the pick in the bottom of the phone in Step 2. This led me to place a pick there BEFORE step 5 which damaged my digitizer. Now I have to replace the entire screen as a result.
Alternatively, add the image from step 5 with the suction cup in place, or just draw an arrow digitally to the seam you're referring to in step 2. Or call "Step 2" "Important Note" instead of a step.
Wow, I'm glad I read this first. I too assumed this step was about inserting the pick, but wasn't sure because it wasn't clearly written that way.
Agreed with the "important note" idea, along with combining this with step 5 where the context is actually relevant.
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파란색 손잡이를 힌지를 향해 당겨 열기 모드를 해제하세요.
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흡입 컵을 스크린 하단 가장자리 근처에 배치하세요—전면에 하나, 후면에 하나.
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컵들을 아래로 눌러 원하는 부위에 흡착하세요.
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가열된 가장자리에 최대한 가깝게 흡입 컵을 스크린에 대세요.
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흡입 컵을 강하고 일정한 힘으로 위로 당겨서 틈을 만드세요.
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틈에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
"Insert the opening pick into the gap." NOT the gap under the glass, the second gap... If not you will probably break your screen, at least I did. Especially important if your pixel 5 shipped with the screen gap :(
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스크린 왼쪽 하단에 다른 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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여는 픽을 왼쪽 모서리를 돌아서 미세요.
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픽을 계속해서 전면 카메라를 향해 밀어서 스크린의 왼쪽 가장자리에 있는 접착제를 자르세요.
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접착제가 다시 붙지 않도록 픽을 끼운 채로 두세요.
I suggest placing an orientation sticker on the screen so you don't lose track of where that delicate ribbon cable is. I gently bent one, immediately after doing a successful one, resulting in a costly screen replacement. It's important to know that it's incredibly delicate.
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왼쪽 상단 모서리에 있는 여는 픽을 사용하여 스크린의 왼쪽 가장자리를 몇 밀리미터 들어 올리세요. 이렇게 하면 클립이 다시 케이스에 끼워지는 것을 방지할 수 있습니다.
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스크린의 오른쪽을 들어 올려 책처럼 휴대폰을 여세요.
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핀셋을 사용하여 스크린 플렉스 케이블을 고정하는 스크린 커넥터 커버를 잡으세요.
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클립을 커넥터를 향해 밀어 잠금을 해제하세요.
I found it easier to use the spudger here rather than the tweezers (which have sharp ends that could damage something if you happen to slip).
some 5a models will have a screw instead of clip , here's a photo https://imgur.com/a/9dZG5pQ
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스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 스크린 플렉스 케이블을 들어 올려 분리하세요.
The curved ends of the blue iFixit Opening Tool helped me reseat the connector when installing the new screen.
So hard to get this thing reseated to test the screen, even before putting the adheasive round the phone edge to finish the job. What made it particularly hard was that the flex cable on mine seemed very short compared to video's i've seen online.
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스크린을 분리하세요.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use tweezers to lift up the graphite tape until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
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Peel off the graphite tape.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use tweezers to peel off the graphite pad covering the charging plate cover.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.6 mm-long screws securing the charging plate cover to the midframe.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.6 mm-long screws securing the midframe.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use tweezers to lift up the right side of the midframe.
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Remove the midframe.
Removing the midframe may cause a metal-foam spacer above the light sensor to pop out. After placing in the midframe on re-assembly, you can use the tweezers to squeeze the spacer back in between the midframe and the metal divider near the top of the phone.
There is a picture of this spacer at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixe.... To replace it, first replace the midframe. Then, before screwing the midframe back down, use the tweezers to pinch the space together, compressing the foam in the middle, and slide it into place.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the pointed end of the spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the spudger to disconnect the two rear camera press connectors from the motherboard.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use tweezers to lift up on the rear camera assembly to remove it from its housing.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the black adhesive pull tab located on the top right edge of the battery. Lift the pull tab with the tweezers until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
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Pull on the pull tab with a slow, steady force at a shallow angle to prevent the pull tab from snapping in the middle.
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If the pull tab breaks prematurely, use tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive and continue pulling.
I found what helped the best, was after grabbing the tab wrapping it around the tip of the spudger, and rolling slowly away, holding it as close as possible to where the tab was. Before I did that since you're pulling so much at once it easily snapped in half. Luckily I could grab a tiny bit of the strip. After wrapping it around the spudger, it no longer broke. The whole strip came off in one piece. Both pieces are complete horizontal pieces and are along the entire width of the battery, from the side you're pulling to the other side of the battery. There's quite a bit there especially since it stretches during this process. You'll feel it suddenly basically give away. ******
It is very much like the adhesive strips you use to hang items on the wall. When you're removing the hook, you pull at a low angle on that tab and it stretches until it comes off clean. Pull too high and you peel paint. A similar process here, keep it low and roll it slowly on the spudger. It will come away cleanly.
Pull very slowly. Once there is enough out to grip with fingers use your fingers . The tweezers concentrated the load in a small contact area with hard edges. more likely to start a tear. Easier to control pull as well. As the tab comes out keep regripping closer to the battery. That takes the load off the part of tab that has already been stretched thin and weakened.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the same process to remove the pull tab located at the bottom left edge of the battery.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the opening of the affected tab.
This is a frustrating step since I bought the kit thinking I had everything I needed. I don't keep 90% isopropyl alcohol on hand (71% is effective as a disinfectant, where as 90% is not).
For those who also do not have 90% on hand, I was able to just gently lift the battery out without the alcohol and the graphite under the battery remained in perfect condition and did not tear at all.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Tilt the phone so that the alcohol flows towards the remaining adhesive.
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Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften, then proceed to the next step.
If you're like me, I ended up having a random piece fall out of the phone that I had no idea where it went. After searching I gave up and left it out. However, after looking at the second photo in this step, the one with it tilted fully towards the camera, I found it. Between the index and thumb in the photo, directly in the center of the phone is a thick gray bar. Just to the right of it is a loose piece that might fall out for you. It looks like two thin pieces of metal that sandwich some insulation. You will also notice two tiny tabs bent at an angle on each end only on one side. If that piece does fall out, that's where it goes. Just match the tab angles with this photo and location. I, unfortunately, don't have that piece anymore and am not willing to break through that display adhesive to put it back anyways.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Insert an opening pick into the gap long the left side of the battery.
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Use the opening pick to slice the remaining adhesive at the top and bottom of the battery.
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If you cannot pry the battery up, add a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol to the adhesive. A plastic card can also be helpful during this process.
This was, by far, the hardest step for me. Pay very much attention to that link "strategically located". It tells you exactly where the toughest adhesive is. I had to use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, a lot of waiting for the adhesive to dissolve, and the thin spudger on only the top and bottom of the battery to pry it out. I did not use the pick.
I don't think it's worth applying adhesive when putting the battery back in.
Absolutely agree. More isopropyl alcohol, a lot of waiting is the key.
Watch how far you push in. The thin cable for the finger print sensor is at the back I snapped it pushing into the glue.
Try to not use alcohol. Or at least use just a tiny bit without tilting the phone too much. While it worked for me, it leaked into my primary camera lens. Wide camera is okay fortunately, so I can still take photos for important things, and I hope in the next few days alcohol will evaporate. I also tried to put the iOpener on the camera to increase the pressure and move the alcohol to the edges. It kinda worked but photos are still a no go, too blurred
Just to update who may read this, alcohol fully evaporated after 1 day. I've been very lucky 😅!
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Remove your old battery.
Step 28 battery replacement guide. This is the battery replacement guide - for bad batteries. So why does it say "Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery." This must have been copied from a different guide, that does not involve battery replacement.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two press connectors by lifting them straight up from the motherboard.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the motherboard to the rear case.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use a spudger to gently fold the flex cable covering the rear case press connector out of the way.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Insert the pointed end of the spudger into the screw holes near the front facing camera.
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Push the motherboard down towards the bottom of the phone, then lift up to free the top of the motherboard from the rear case.
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이 단계는 번역되지 않았습니다. 번역을 도와주십시오
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Use your fingers to pull the motherboard up towards the top of the rear case to free the charging port.
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Remove the motherboard.
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다른 3명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 3개
Good day. Please tell me, what is the size of the vibration motor for the pixel 5? I can't find the type of vibro motor anywhere.
Mr. Boyd, where exactly is the proximity sensor inside the Pixel 5 phone?
Any idea on model number for power IC in pixel 5? The technician is saying its Qualcomm PM8996 or PMI 8996 001 Power Management IC. Can somebody please help with my dead pixel 5 please!
