필요한 것
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I used home-made wooden car-ramps, but you can use a jack and jack-stands, or store-bought ramps
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The tools I used were:
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14mm wrench for drain bolt
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Toyota filter housing wrench
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1/2in rachet to drive the filter housing wrench
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Drain pan and clean/dirty rags
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Pick or small screwdriver to pull off the old O-ring
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Philips 3 screwdriver to remove filter housing access panel, can also use 10mm socket
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Big-mouth funnel
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Remove the filter housing access panel with the screwdriver or 10mm socket
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There are 3 screws
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Position your drain pan under the oil pan - it's right-side of engine
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Remove the oil pan drain bolt and try to avoid the mess!
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Once the oil is drained, wipe around the drain hole with your rags
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Re-install the drain bolt with your 14mm wrench or socket - don't over-tighten it!
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You're supposed to replace the washer on the bolt every time, but sometimes you forget to buy new ones
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Reposition your drain pan under the oil filter housing
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Loosen the filter housing with your filter-housing-tool, or possibly with large channel-lock pliers...
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While loosening it will start to drip - reposition your drain pan as required
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Remove the filter housing completely
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Remove the old filter from the housing
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Clean out the housing as required
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It's usually at this point I switch to the next cleaner level of rag
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Remove the housing o-ring with a small screwdriver or pick - there is actually a cut-out in the lip to allow easy access - Thanks Toyota
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Wipe some oil on your new O-ring and ensure it's in the correct groove in the housing
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After preparing the filter housing with new filter and o-ring, screw it back into the opening
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It does not need to be super-tight, it seals with the o-ring, just snug it up
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Re-install the cover using your 3 screws from before, I recommend only using a screwdriver, since you want to barely torque these - they go into plastic
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Now it's time to go up-top and re-fill the engine with Oil
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I used Penrite HPR 5
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My 2008 Lexus IS350 took around 6.6L of oil to fill
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After I put in around 6L I took it down off the ramps to level the car before taking the final readings on the dipstick
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The dipstick is on the right-side of the engine on IS350
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The dipstick will only read correctly when the car is on level ground
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Now you get to clean up the mess with your remaining rags or kitty litter or whatever.
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Usually I start up the engine and run it for around 5 seconds (while listening intently) then check under for leaks
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Maybe you have questions about the filter housing tool?
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It's a Moker, I got it from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Moker-Compatible-...
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I'm in New Zealand, so the car is a JDM import from Japan, and I'm using locally-purchased Australian Penrite HPR 5 oil, and a Japanese JS Asakashi OE116J filter bought online from Singapore
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After starting the car check underneath for any leaks.
After starting the car check underneath for any leaks.
