소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 CMOS 배터리를 교체하세요.
Mac Pro에서 작업을 시작하기 전에: 컴퓨터 플러그를 뽑고, 전원 버튼을 10초 이상 눌러서 전원 공급 장치의 캐패시터를 방전하세요.
전원 공급 장치 후면에 노출된 납땜 접합부 또는 캐패시터 리드를 만지지 않도록 매우 조심하세요. 기판의 가장자리만 만지세요.
필요한 것
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팬 어셈블리의 바깥 둘레에 있는 5.1mm T10 Torx 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요.
Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.
Jim WIlson - 답글
Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.
D300 = 2GB each card. Very few apps uses two cards at the same time.
Gio Cas -
The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713
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한 손으로 팬 어셈블리를 받치면서 팬 케이블 브래킷에서 T8 고정 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
On my machine, a TR7 worked to remove them due to the weird angle.
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상호 연결 보드를 방열판에 고정하는 6.0mm T8 Torx 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
Ended up being T9 screws for me.
T8 screws for me, i did and edit to this step
Ended up being T15 screws on my machine
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스퍼저의 평평한 끝으로 IO 보드의 소켓에서 전원 공급 장치의 DC 출력 커넥터를 연결 해제하세요.
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스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝으로 IO 보드의 소켓에서 전원 공급 장치 데이터 케이블을 연결 해제하세요.
Need to add T9 Torx Screwdriver to list of tools at the beginning of this article.
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전원 공급 장치 측면에서 9.0mm 은색 T10 Torx 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요.
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IO 보드를 IO 쉴드에 고정하는 9mm T10 Torx 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
On reassembly, before tightening these 2 9.0mm T10s, make sure the other 4 holes line up. Otherwise you might be setting yourself up for cross threading the 4 remaining 9.0 mm T10 that are already in a bad spot for torquing.
Might not be a bad idea to put the other 4 halfway in to be sure no resistance, then tighten the 2 in this step, then remove the other 4.
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스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝으로 IO 실드 리본 케이블 ZIF 커넥터의 고정 플랩을 젖혀주세요.
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IO 실드 리본 케이블을 연결 해제하세요.
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IO 보드에서 오디오 잭 리본 케이블 커넥터를 꽉 쥐고 당겨 빼내세요.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 수행해주세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 수행해주세요.
다른 26명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
100%
이 번역자 분들은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참해 주시는 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 11개
A very good guide. I have a few notes from my experience replacing my battery.
In step 13 the torx screws securing the interconnect board to the heat sink were T-8 on my Mac but T-7 worked.
In step 23 a short arm Torx key would be helpful. Getting them out tore up the heads of the screws and getting back in was difficult without cross threading some of them. Bondhus (model no. 31832) sells a set that might help.
In step 29 if you don't reconnect the power supply data cable completely your Mac fan will run full speed and the processors will max out.
Yeah, could somebody please post the specifications for the replacement battery and maybe a source for it?
From the tear down, it's a Long-life BR-2032... I got mine at: https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-BATTERI.... Good luck! Great machine!
Yes, the BR2032.
The difference between it and the CR2032 medical battery is the wider heat tolerance range, both extreme heat and cold of the BR. As these are known to get quite hot, get the BR2032.
The batteries in most Macs are easy to replace so substituting the common CR2032 works fine. Electrically, they are identical. The Mac Pro and the late 2009-2010 iMac are a bit time consuming (2009–10 iMacs have the battery on the back of the motherboard) so use the same one that Apple uses.
The best price on the BR2032 is this 3-pack.
<url>https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Battery...</url>
Could anyone explain what issues they are seeing with a dead CMOS battery?
I’ve had a problem booting for a while, having to reset pram and smc every time and try multiple reboots, uugh, I changed CMOS battery thinking it was that and tested the old one which was lo and behold dead. I thought this would fix the issue but it hasn’t. Just FYI I have the same problem with or without a battery in there.
Hi there. The same for me here, how did you solve this problem ?
Changed for new battery although it is not turning on yet.
Ebd -
Thank You for very good detailed guide but I have problem after reassembly, fan running on maximum speed. I have try SMC reset (1)Shut down Mac, 2) Unplug power cord, 3) Wait 15 sec., 4) Plug in power cord, 5) Wait 5 sec., 6)Turn On Mac) and not worked for me, all is without changes. Mac very lagging and is very slow. I disassembled the mac again, checked all the flex cables and dont’t find any problem with this. Please, is any way how can I fix this? I have searching and testing guides 2 days and now I'm absolutely frustrated, nothing worked. :-( Thank You very much.
Thank you for an excellent guide to a tricky enough operation. Phew! Good job that coin cell lasts a few years! As someone else has said, I highly recommend chasing down the BR2032 version that Apple install as OEM, rather than using the more common CR2032. There are good reasons for this - the BR2032 has increased temperature stability and holds voltage better over lifetime. UK folk can get a supply at RS Components here: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/button-ba...
One other comment - in the reverse of Stage 23 when re-assembling, please take care aligning those 4 x 9mm T10 screws bolting down the PSU to the IO board. They came out fairly easily, but picking up the thread again properly when putting them back I found very tricky, mainly due to the overhang, and there is a risk of stripping if they don’t go in vertically.
