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MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Lower Case: 1 단계, 이미지 1/1
    이 단계에 사용된 도구:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    구매
    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen - 답글

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - 답글

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - 답글

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - 답글

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - 답글

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - 답글

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - 답글

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin - 답글

  2. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 2 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  3. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: 3 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: 3 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - 답글

  4. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: 4 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: 4 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  5. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 5 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 5 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    Additionally it seems as though the display assembly I have is from an earlier model with a different built in camera. I don’t care if the camera works, could I chop the cord, power it up, and just no have a working camera?

    Aidan - 답글

  6. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 6 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Be sure you understand how the connector works, if you have to go and look up “apple ZIF connector” and watch a video. The one above flips up from where the tool is pointing at. Again do not damage the connector. Click the second picture to see this!

    joe - 답글

  7. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 7 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  8. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 1/3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 2/3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 8 단계, 이미지 3/3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

  9. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Heat Sink: 9 단계, 이미지 1/1
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

  10. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 1/2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: 10 단계, 이미지 2/2
    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the face of the CPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

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댓글 3개

you should seriously note the danger of the cpu screw holders. apple for some reason decided to attach the fricken screw receivers/standoffs via surface mount. they dont have a bottom cap either. use a screw slightly too long or turn too far and pop(screw pushes against motherboard and pops the holder off)... one corner is unable to be screwed in. ask me how i learned this...lol...I cant see how this design decision helps anything but apples wallet. the other side of the board has components smds as well so its not like a really short through hole was undo-able.

John W - 답글

There is step missing between 3 and 4. There is another ribbon cable over fan that is still there in step 3 but gone in step 4.

Bogdaniec Ze Zbyszka - 답글

The step 3 and 4, there should be a step removing the I/O cable. I/O cable must be removed or disassembled to access iSight camera cable. The I/O cable is covering the entire iSight cable, and without removing, accessing the iSight cable will extremely difficult.

ChiKen - 답글

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