Skip to main content

소개

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on the new board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 답글

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 답글

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 답글

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 답글

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 답글

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 답글

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 답글

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 답글

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 답글

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 답글

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 답글

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - 답글

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - 답글

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - 답글

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - 답글

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 답글

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 답글

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - 답글

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - 답글

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 답글

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - 답글

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - 답글

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 답글

  9. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - 답글

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 답글

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - 답글

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 답글

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - 답글

  13. 맥북 배터리 수리 키트

    기본 가격은 $69.99

    Buy Now

    맥북 배터리 수리 키트

    기본 가격은 $69.99

    Buy Now
  14. Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 답글

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 답글

  15. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  16. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - 답글

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

  17. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

  18. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  19. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

  20. Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - 답글

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - 답글

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - 답글

  22. Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - 답글

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - 답글

  23. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  24. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - 답글

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

  25. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

    What is this cables for?

    great.ryankim - 답글

  26. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - 답글

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - 답글

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - 답글

  27. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - 답글

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - 답글

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Lionheart - 답글

  28. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - 답글

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - 답글

    This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

    airshack - 답글

  29. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - 답글

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - 답글

    If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

    airshack - 답글

  30. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught. During reassembly:
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly:

    • Keep loose cables clear of the board so they aren't caught under it.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches, as highlighted in the second picture.

  31. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  32. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

  33. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

  34. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

  35. Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  36. When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins. The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board. Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.
    • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

    This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

    The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

    Daniel Cassel - 답글

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 37명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

Jeff Suovanen

회원 가입일: 2013년 08월 06일

222,657 평판

안내서 190개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

104 회원들

안내서 8,403개 작성하였습니다

Easy peasy macbook squeezy.

The guide is very detailed, sometimes overcareful, but its completely ok because the delicate.

I personally skip some last steps because it wasn't necessary, but I recommend those with less experience to stick the guide.

Good luck to further readers.

alexxsanchezm - 답글

I’m getting ready to replace the logic board on an early 2014 MacBook Air. I’m assuming that upgrading from the base i5 to an i7 8GB logic board at this time requires nothing more than the board replacement. Can anyone confirm this?

cwnoel - 답글

Am also trying to replace an early 2014 i5 4GB to i7 8GB and need some answers. Will a 2014 i7 be compatible with a 2014 i5?

Samson Kissa - 답글

댓글 쓰기

조회 통계:

지난 24시간: 15

지난 7일: 105

지난 30일: 475

전체 시간: 52,442