소개
Use this guide to replace the screen (aka the display) in a Late 2020 MacBook Air (M1).
필요한 것
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If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
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Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
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Two 7.9 mm screws
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Two 7.3 mm screws
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Six 2.6 mm screws
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Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop off the lower case.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unlatch the metal locking arm on the battery connector.
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Lift straight up on the metal locking arm to pull the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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If necessary, push the rear, wire side of the connector into place first, then rock the front of the connector into place.
If having difficulty in flipping the bar up, place the machine vertical and not that there is a small “locking nib” that the bar has to clear. You may have to give the bar honest persuasion to clear the nib.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.4 mm screw securing the antenna cable cover.
I needed a T4 for this
I found this screw difficult to reinstall. Very small and fiddly. 15-20 minutes on this step.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
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Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
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Repeat for the second antenna cable.
These are tiny, and hard to reconnect. The key was to position the cables so their ends are very close to the posts on the board.
Yep. Good call. Me too folks.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector cover.
I dropped one of these - can they be purchased? Or is there a matching screw in an older MacBook Air? I have a ton of those for parts... :-)
weird, for my model A2337 it is even T2 screws. tested it two times and I have the ifixit mako precision bit set.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display cable connector straight off of the antenna board to disconnect it.
Since this step is the most crucial in the reassembly process I suggest connecting the flat cable to the board BEFORE placing the board in to its cavity in the antenna bar. MUCH easier and SAFER to do.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the antenna bar:
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Four 7.4 mm silver screws
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Two 4.7 mm black screws
Mine here is T6 Torx not T5.
When putting it back together, make sure to get the display cable connector out from under the antenna board before screwing the antenna bar back down. The connector has to go behind the bar in the little notch as the board goes through the opening in the bar.
Mine here were Torx T4. Came with the kit.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the gap between the antenna bar and display hinge.
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Pivot the spudger against the hinge to pry up the end of the antenna bar.
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Repeat for the other end of the antenna bar.
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Use your fingers to pry the antenna bar straight up and away from the case.
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Thread the antenna board through the opening in the middle of the antenna bar.
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Remove the antenna bar.
Separating antennae bar from case after removing screws is challenging. Author’s directions are good but what needs to be addressed is a thin strip of adhesive on both sides of the bar that needs to be separated. the strips are located on the hinge edge of the logic board mount area. I used a metal, razor thin, wide, blade type spudger to gently “wedge” underneath the bar along both adhesive strips to loosen the bar and lift it up. Careful!
Thanks for this hint!!
Before removing the antenna bar see if the right side is slightly elevated than the left. Upon replacement I could not get the right side to sit as flush as the left. However it may be intentional to protect the wifi wires.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.0 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
The Easiest Mac screen repair I've ever done! it was a pleasant surprise
I found a T9 to be a better fit
Nothing is making these screws come out. Any advice on what to do
Increase the diameter of the handle. That gives more torque to break the screww loose. You could wrap it with some material and then cover it with duct tape.
TR9 Screw in my Mako Precision Bit set from ifixit.
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With the MacBook still screen-side down, carefully lift the upper case to open the MacBook as far as possible.
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Lift the MacBook up and place it on its side, with the display facing away from you.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.0 mm screws securing the display, one from each hinge.
My first attempt at reassembly had the hinge making a terrible snapping sound due to pushing some plastic parts out of the way at full extension. After screwing in these first two screws, I suggest opening and closing the hinge a few times to confirm it's smooth and quiet. If not, you have a fraction of a millimeter of play to get it into just the right position.
On disassembly and reassembly, keep in mind that the edge of the leaf of the hinge (the part with the 3 holes in it--red circle in picture above) sits slightly under a metal edge, and the barrel or pivoting part of the hinge is tucked under the forward-sloping edge of the case. This means the hinge doesn't just loosen and come out. It helps to lift the leaf free of the metal edge in front of it. Yes, this takes more force than you think it might. This will allow the entire hinge to be lifted up and forward (toward the front of the computer) out of its place under the edge of the case.
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Carefully begin to close the display until it's at a ~90 degree angle with the upper case.
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Keeping the display at a 90 degree angle with the case, move the display away from the case while holding the case still, so that the hinges slide out the bottom of the case.
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Remove the display.
I managed to try to fit the screen back to the body backwards, and wondered why the hinges didn't fit! Yes, stupid. I lost situational awareness. But just make the sure the correct side of the screen is facing the right way, to avoid my (temporary, but stressful) goofup.
Me too until I read your comment. Remember that the screen was facing away from you in step 16. Then it fits easily.
When you're all done with reassembly you have to plug the charger into the laptop in order for it to boot. It doesnt matter if the battery is charged it will not boot until the charger is reconnected. Took me a while to figure out why mine wasnt booting after the screen replacement
Nelson Pun - 답글
Yep me too. Use the charger folks.
The true tone function will be lost even if you replace the display with a 100% compatible display.
Even the display that is purchased through the Apple Parts store? I have one coming and will report back once I install it.
Confirmed that all features function as new when using a display from Apple Parts - True Tone, Camera, Nightshift, etc.
Perfect guide. I didn't encounter any issues and just worked carefully and gingerly.
Great guide - excellent photos and description. Very accurate. Thanks for creating!
**************************** IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP************************
I pulled another common mistake probably. Make sure that the screen cable is snaked through to the bottom when reattaching the new screen assembly. I didn't. I got all 6 screws on and closed the screen. I was up to step 12 when I realized there was no antenna board. Luckily it didn't break the screen again when I closed the cover on it!
Excellent instructions. Did not take long at all. Every step is on point.
Hey, great instructions - thanks! I'm pretty clumsy, and these screens are pretty fragile, which means I'm currently on my 4th screen! I have replaced them all myself following these instructions, and I've bought genuine parts AFAIK. However, for each replacement, I can never get the camera to work. It shows in System Information like so:
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Model ID: FaceTime HD Camera
Unique ID: EAB7A68F-EC2B-4487-AADF-D8A91C1CB782
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But it just isn't recognised by any app, and whatever I try (killing all apps that might be using it, updating software etc) doesn't work, and hasn't worked with the two previous replacements either. I'm sure the connectors have been done properly on all of them. I read somewhere that running some system config software is necessary, but is that true? And if so where can I find it please?
Thanks!
Same problem, the camera does not work. Have you found the solution ??
Laurent -
Excellent instructions! 5 stars for the author. Take your time, lay out the screws you remove in a pattern to facilitate reinstallation. From a novice here, think twice before screwing anything back in place. I installed the screen only later to see the antenna rack facing the outside of the computer and not the motherboard. Problem resolved, everything works!
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Once you've completed your repair, your laptop may not power back on until connected to power.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
다른 75명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 36개
How to make the True Tone working on the screen from another air?
Like iPhones does the display need to be programed to allow true tone to work?
Just did the replacement! Was a breeze, just be careful not to over tighten any of the screws past a firm twist. Accident broke the head off a 1.5mm screw using a T3 bit. Didn’t affect the plates ability to cover or apply a firm press downwards, but a unfortunate thing nonetheless.
After Replacing the display, the new display is dim and the F2 does not brighten the screen. Any resolution to this issue?
Already reset NVRAM and PRAM.
same issue here. it looks more dim
Step 4 and 7 were T4 Torx screws for me.
I successfully installed the replacement screen, but now my 2.4 Ghz wifi / bluetooth antenna is not working. Any idea which connector cable connects to 2.4 Ghz antenna?
I had the same problem. The reason was that I didn't connect the antenna back completely. Redo the step n. 6 in reverse and connect the antenna right (it must click).
Done. Works . Biggest chalange was with plugging in back the display cabel connector . Be sure to pre alling the Screen bar with cabel conector , becouse it cannot bend on sides.
I tried the replacement. Everything works except True Tone as expected. Probably special tool is needed for the True Tone.
I’ve got the display from an Intel 2018 Air. Can I test it with an M1 Mac? The process and connectors look the same.
Did you try this? If so, was it successful?
Lee -
Just tried this - it doesn’t work. M1 MacBook refuses to power on when connected to a display from a 2018 MacBook Air a1932.
Your instructions were amazing and to the T. Thank you so much for everything
Hi.
Would the display of a MacBook Air early (intel) 2020 work on this MacBook Air late 2020. Seems to be the same specifications.
I change my screen but the camera doesn’t work, I checked the hardware’s but MacBook doesn’t have any camera, I tried 3 different screens , all are same. i tried all resets but still not working, any ideas?
hi i have the same Issue do you have a solution?
same problem here!
Same problem here, it seems we need the « system configuration tool » from Apple to make it works.
Laurent -
Certain parts like displays, cameras, and ambient light sensors have calibration values that are customized to each individual part during manufacturing. Transferring these values ensures maximum performance and quality after a repair.
A System Configuration step may be required at the end of your repair. System Configuration is a postrepair software tool that completes the repair for genuine Apple parts. Running System Configuration has a number of purposes that vary based on the part replaced.
I'd replaced replaced the display on a MBP 2012 before, so I didn't anticipate any problems replacing the display on my A2337. Everything seemed to go smoothly, but when I booted up (with power cord attached), I didn't get more than a faint glow from the screen. I tried all the usual, but still no luck. I went back and made sure everything was seated properly but I got the same results. So, I reinstalled my cracked screen, which worked perfectly, outside of the cracks. You think I can assume the part was defective? I bought it from eBay, and it at least claimed to be OEM.
Did you find a solution?
Is there a way to tighten the hinge? I would like to have my display tighter. It always flips back when I pick up my MacBook. That's not the case for my girlfriends MacBook which is the exact same model.
All went great, very detailled manual. Unfortunately the new display doesn't work. The backlight is on but it shows no graphics. I managed to get the mac working with an external display. MacOS shows the display but nothing happens. Connectors are all doublechecked of course. Any ideas?
Additional info: It is a M1-Macbook Air A2337.
Where did you buy the display module, please?
Apple only sells the display itself with our the clamshell. That makes the repair so much more complicated and I am sure they know it. Any ideas how to get the entire display module including the clamshell?
Sebastian,
The display part Apple sells through Self Service Repair is the entire assembly/module, including the panel, aluminum shell, camera, hinges, etc. The display we sell is also the entire display assembly. Hope this helps—happy fixing!
ESD safe mat, plugged into ground, with a wrist strap, also grounded, are the best best to protect the logic board.
Robin Ray - 답글
Re-Assembly Tip: Before putting the screws back in, snap the lower case on and test to make sure the MacBook powers up. When I first re-assembled, I became very nervous I did something wrong because it would not power on. It turns out I just needed to plug the laptop into a power source for it to power up (despite having a good charge before disassembly). It was the perfect way to test the new USB-C ports!
Austin - 답글
Big points to this one, especially for mentioning needing to plug the laptop in. The bottom case needs to be screwed in and laptop needs to be plugged in before it will boot.
Bayden Yazalina -