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소개

이 안내서를 사용하여 MacBook Pro의 접착된 배터리를 분리하세요. 이 작업은 iFixit 배터리 교체 키트의 도움으로 가장 잘 할 수 있습니다; 키트의 용액 접착제 제거제는 배터리를 고정하는 접착제를 녹여서 배터리를 수월하게 분리할 수 있습니다. 대안으로, iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 들어 올리기 전에 접착제를 부드럽게 하기 위하여 적당한 양의 열을 가할 수 있습니다.

‘’’iFixit 접착제 제거제는 가연성이 매우 높습니다.’’’ 통풍이 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 수행하세요. 이 과정에서 담배를 피우거나 불 근처에서 작업하지 마세요.

손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 나면 위험한 화재를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.

참고: 배터리 접착제를 녹이는데 사용하는 용액은 MacBook Pro 플라스틱 스피커 인클로저와 같은 특정 플라스틱을 손상할 수 있습니다. 용액을 바를 때 주의하세요.

    • 하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 2.3mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개

    • 3.0mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 여덟 개

    • 이 수리를 하는 동안 각 나사를 기억하고 기기 손상을 방지하기 위해 원래 위치로 정확히 돌아가는 것을 확인하세요.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 답글

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 답글

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 답글

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 답글

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 답글

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 답글

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 답글

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 답글

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 답글

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 답글

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 답글

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 답글

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 답글

  1. 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.
    • 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.

    • 상단 케이스에서 하단 케이스를 조심히 당기세요.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 답글

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 답글

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - 답글

  2. 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다. 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.
    • 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다.

    • 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 답글

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 답글

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 답글

  3. 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.
    • 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 답글

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - 답글

  4. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요. 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.

    • 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 답글

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 답글

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 답글

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 답글

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 답글

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 답글

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 답글

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 답글

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 답글

  5. 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.
    • 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 답글

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 답글

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 답글

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 답글

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  6. I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷 로직 보드 끝을 고정하는 2.1mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요. I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요.
    • I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷 로직 보드 끝을 고정하는 2.1mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    • I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷을 분리하세요.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - 답글

  7. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드에서 I/O 보드 커넥터를 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올리세요. 소켓 자체가 아닌 I/O 보드 케이블만 들어 올리세요. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드에서 I/O 보드 커넥터를 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올리세요.

    • 소켓 자체가 아닌 I/O 보드 케이블만 들어 올리세요. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - 답글

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - 답글

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - 답글

  8. I/O 보드 케이블의 로직 보드 끝을 위로 똑바로 들어 올려 구부리세요. 케이블 손상을 방지하려면 케이블의 I/O 보드 끝의 구부러진 부분만 접으세요.
    • I/O 보드 케이블의 로직 보드 끝을 위로 똑바로 들어 올려 구부리세요.

    • 케이블 손상을 방지하려면 케이블의 I/O 보드 끝의 구부러진 부분만 접으세요.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  9. 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - 답글

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - 답글

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  10. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요.
    • 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - 답글

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - 답글

  11. 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 5.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 6.5mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 3.8mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

  12. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요.
    • 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - 답글

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - 답글

  13. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 답글

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 답글

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 답글

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 답글

  14. 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 5.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 6.5mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 3.8mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 답글

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 답글

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

  15. 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.
    • 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 답글

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 답글

  16. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 트랙패드 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 위로 들어올리세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 트랙패드 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 위로 들어올리세요.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 트랙패드 커넥터를 로직 보드 소켓에서 위로 들어올리세요.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - 답글

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  17. 트랙패드 케이블을 배터리에서 위로 들어 올려 고정하는 접착제에서 분리하세요. 케이블을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 쉽게 떨어지지 않으면 iOpener, 열선 총, 또는 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 약간의 열을 가해 접착제를 부드럽게한 다음 다시 시도하세요.
    • 트랙패드 케이블을 배터리에서 위로 들어 올려 고정하는 접착제에서 분리하세요.

    • 케이블을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 쉽게 떨어지지 않으면 iOpener, 열선 총, 또는 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 약간의 열을 가해 접착제를 부드럽게한 다음 다시 시도하세요.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - 답글

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - 답글

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  18. 필요한 경우, 트랙패드 케이블 커넥터를 덮고 있는 테이프를 떼세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 ZIF 커넥터의 고정 탭을 뒤집으세요. Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 ZIF 커넥터의 고정 탭을 뒤집으세요.
    • 필요한 경우, 트랙패드 케이블 커넥터를 덮고 있는 테이프를 떼세요.

    • Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 ZIF 커넥터의 고정 탭을 뒤집으세요.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - 답글

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - 답글

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - 답글

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - 답글

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - 답글

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - 답글

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - 답글

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  19. 트랙패드 컨트롤 보드 ZIF 소켓에서 트랙패드 케이블을 똑바로 당겨 빼세요. 트랙패드 컨트롤 보드 ZIF 소켓에서 트랙패드 케이블을 똑바로 당겨 빼세요.
    • 트랙패드 컨트롤 보드 ZIF 소켓에서 트랙패드 케이블을 똑바로 당겨 빼세요.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - 답글

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - 답글

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - 답글

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - 답글

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - 답글

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - 답글

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - 답글

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  20. 배터리 보드를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 3.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개를 풀어주세요.
    • 배터리 보드를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 3.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개를 풀어주세요.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - 답글

  21. iFixit 배터리 교체 키트가 제공하는 액상 접착제 제거제는 MacBook Pro 디스플레이의 반사 방지 코팅에 영향을 줄 수 있습니다.
    • iFixit 배터리 교체 키트가 제공하는 액상 접착제 제거제는 MacBook Pro 디스플레이의 반사 방지 코팅에 영향을 줄 수 있습니다.

    • 디스플레이를 보호하기 위해서 작업하는 동안 디스플레이와 키보드 사이에 알루미늄 호일 한 장을 놓아두세요.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - 답글

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - 답글

  22. 액상 접착제 제거제를 포함한 iFixit 배터리 키트가 있다면,  이제 준비하세요. 또는, 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하는 경우, 다음 세 단계는 건너 뛰세요.
    • 액상 접착제 제거제를 포함한 iFixit 배터리 키트가 있다면, 이제 준비하세요.

    • 또는, 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하는 경우, 다음 세 단계는 건너 뛰세요.

    • iFixit 접착제 제거제는, 약한 피부와 눈을 자극하는, 아세톤을 포함하고 있습니다.

    • 접착제 제거제를 취급 및 사용할 때는 보안경을 착용하세요. (키트는 보안경을 포함하고 있습니다.)

    • 보안경 없이 콘택트 렌즈를 착용하지 마세요.

    • 보호 장갑도 키트에 포함되어 있습니다. 피부 자극이 걱정된다면 지금 장갑을 끼세요.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  23. 접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 떼세요. 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병 뚜껑을 돌려 풀거나 여세요. 이렇게 하면 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병의 봉인을 풀어 압력을 균등하게 합니다. 이 단계를 건너 뛰면 팁을 자를 때 접착제 제거제가 예기치 않게 뿜어 나올 수 있습니다.
    • 접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 떼세요.

    • 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병 뚜껑을 돌려 풀거나 여세요.

    • 이렇게 하면 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병의 봉인을 풀어 압력을 균등하게 합니다. 이 단계를 건너 뛰면 팁을 자를 때 접착제 제거제가 예기치 않게 뿜어 나올 수 있습니다.

    • 가위를 사용하여 봉인된 어플리케이터 팁을 자르세요.

    • 좁은 팁 가까이 자르면 더 잘 조절할 수 있으므로 소량의 접착제 제거제를 적용할 수 있습니다.

    • 더 진행하기 전에 병 뚜껑을 단단히 돌려 닫으세요.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - 답글

  24. 가장 오른편 배터리 셀 가장자리 밑에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 골고루 바르세요.
    • 가장 오른편 배터리 셀 가장자리 밑에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 골고루 바르세요.

    • 많이 사용할 필요는 없습니다. 작은 병에는 모든 배터리 셀을 분리하는데 필요한 양의 두 배 이상의 용액이 들어 있습니다.

    • 다음 단계로 진행하기 전에 액상 접착제 제거제가 배터리 셀 밑으로 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  25. 액상 접착제 제거제가 없는 경우 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착 부분을 따뜻하게하여 부드럽게 한 다음 그 지점을 조심히 들어 올리세요. 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 두개의 절반을 덮으세요.
    • 액상 접착제 제거제가 없는 경우 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착 부분을 따뜻하게하여 부드럽게 한 다음 그 지점을 조심히 들어 올리세요.

    • 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 두개의 절반을 덮으세요.

    • 약 1분 후, iOpener를 다시 가열하여 가장 오른편 배터리 셀들의 나머지 절반을 덮으세요.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - 답글

  26. 맨 오른편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 밀어 넣어 둘 사이의 접착제를 가르세요. 이 절차를 수행하는 동안 사용하는 도구로 배터리 셀을  손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 손상된 리튬-이온 배터리는 위험한 화학 물질을 누출하거나 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다. 플라스틱 비집는 도구만 사용하세요. 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하며 플라스틱 비집는 도구로 비틀 때 상당한 저항이 있으면 작업을 중단하고 iOpener를 사용하여 작업중인 부분을 다시 가열하세요.
    • 맨 오른편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 밀어 넣어 둘 사이의 접착제를 가르세요.

    • 이 절차를 수행하는 동안 사용하는 도구로 배터리 셀을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 손상된 리튬-이온 배터리는 위험한 화학 물질을 누출하거나 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다. 플라스틱 비집는 도구만 사용하세요.

    • 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하며 플라스틱 비집는 도구로 비틀 때 상당한 저항이 있으면 작업을 중단하고 iOpener를 사용하여 작업중인 부분을 다시 가열하세요.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - 답글

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - 답글

  27. 접착제와 인접한 배터리 셀을 분리하려면 위의 단계를 반복하세요: 배터리 셀 밑에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 떨어뜨리고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제를 부드럽게 할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요. 또는, 필요한 경우 iOpener로 이 지점을 다시-가열하세요.
    • 접착제와 인접한 배터리 셀을 분리하려면 위의 단계를 반복하세요:

    • 배터리 셀 밑에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 떨어뜨리고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제를 부드럽게 할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 또는, 필요한 경우 iOpener로 이 지점을 다시-가열하세요.

    • 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 약 1인치 정도 밀고 셀을 천천히 들어 올려 모든 접착제를 분리하세요.

  28. 플라스틱 카드를 맨 오른쪽 배터리 셀 두 개 밑에 임시로 놓고 상단 케이스에 다시 붙지 않도록합니다. iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요. 다시, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 가장 왼편 배터리 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.
    • 플라스틱 카드를 맨 오른쪽 배터리 셀 두 개 밑에 임시로 놓고 상단 케이스에 다시 붙지 않도록합니다.

    • iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요.

    • 다시, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 가장 왼편 배터리 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.

  29. 위의 절차를 반복하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요. 각 배터리 셀에 소량의 접착제 제거제를 바르고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요. 두 번째 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.
    • 위의 절차를 반복하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.

    • 각 배터리 셀에 소량의 접착제 제거제를 바르고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 두 번째 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 답글

  30. 계속해서 비집는 절차를 반복하세요. 두 번째 맨 왼편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 플라스틱 카드를 넣어서 둘을 연결하는 접착제를 자르고 케이스에서 셀을 들어 올리세요. 두 번째 맨 왼편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 플라스틱 카드를 넣어서 둘을 연결하는 접착제를 자르고 케이스에서 셀을 들어 올리세요.
    • 계속해서 비집는 절차를 반복하세요.

    • 두 번째 맨 왼편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 플라스틱 카드를 넣어서 둘을 연결하는 접착제를 자르고 케이스에서 셀을 들어 올리세요.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - 답글

  31. 두 번째 카드는 왼편 셀 두 개 사이 모서리에 두세요. iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요. 이전 처럼, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 중앙 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.
    • 두 번째 카드는 왼편 셀 두 개 사이 모서리에 두세요.

    • iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요.

    • 이전 처럼, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 중앙 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.

    • 다음 단계들에서는, 세 번째 카드 또는 오른쪽 모서리에 있는 카드를 사용할 수 있습니다. 오른쪽 모서리 접착제는 필요할 때 셀을 쉽게 다시 당길 수 있을 만큼 충분히 마르고/식었을 것입니다.

  32. 액상 접착제 제거제를 사용하는 경우, 마지막 두 개 각각의 중간 셀 아래에 몇 방울 더 떨어뜨리세요. 접착제 제거제가, 올바른 방향, 배터리 셀 밑으로 흐르도록 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 몇 인치 치켜들면 도움이 될 수 있습니다. 튼튼한 책이나 폼 블록을 사용하여 작업하는 동안 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 받치세요. 계속하기 전에 접착제 제거제가 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.
    • 액상 접착제 제거제를 사용하는 경우, 마지막 두 개 각각의 중간 셀 아래에 몇 방울 더 떨어뜨리세요.

    • 접착제 제거제가, 올바른 방향, 배터리 셀 밑으로 흐르도록 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 몇 인치 치켜들면 도움이 될 수 있습니다. 튼튼한 책이나 폼 블록을 사용하여 작업하는 동안 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 받치세요.

    • 계속하기 전에 접착제 제거제가 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 맨 오른편에 있는 배터리 셀을 조심히 접어 놓고, 오른편 중앙 셀 아래에 플라스틱 카드를 넣으세요.

    • 카드를 길이의 절반 정도를 밀어 넣어 배터리 셀을 케이스에 고정하는 접착제를 자르세요.

    • 트랙패드 컨트롤 보드는 확실히 피해야 합니다. 카드는 접착제가 있는 로직 보드를 향해 겨냥하세요.

    • 접착제가 다시 붙지 않도록 카드를 그자리에 두세요.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - 답글

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Trackpad Replacement

    ibash - 답글

  33. 마지막 남은 배터리 셀에 동일한 절차를 반복하세요. 바깥 쪽 셀을 잡은 상태에서, 트랙패드 보드를 피하며 플라스틱 카드를 반 정도만 쯤 왼편 중앙 배터리 셀 밑으로 넣으세요. 바깥 쪽 셀을 잡은 상태에서, 트랙패드 보드를 피하며 플라스틱 카드를 반 정도만 쯤 왼편 중앙 배터리 셀 밑으로 넣으세요.
    • 마지막 남은 배터리 셀에 동일한 절차를 반복하세요.

    • 바깥 쪽 셀을 잡은 상태에서, 트랙패드 보드를 피하며 플라스틱 카드를 반 정도만 쯤 왼편 중앙 배터리 셀 밑으로 넣으세요.

  34. 오른편-중앙 셀 아래의 카드로 돌아가서, 카드를 비틀어 배터리 전체를 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요. 이제 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착제는 모두 잘랐고 배터리는 쉽게 빠져나옵니다.
    • 오른편-중앙 셀 아래의 카드로 돌아가서, 카드를 비틀어 배터리 전체를 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • 이제 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착제는 모두 잘랐고 배터리는 쉽게 빠져나옵니다.

    • 배터리가 쉽게 빠져나오지 않으면 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 붙어있는 부분에 적용한 다음 플라스틱 카드로 접착제를 부드럽게 잘라야합니다.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - 답글

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - 답글

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - 답글

  35. 배터리를 분리하세요. 새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에서 오래된 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.
    • 배터리를 분리하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에서 오래된 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.

    • 운이 좋으면 손가락으로 접착제 조각을 천천히 당겨 빼낼 수 있습니다.

    • 운이 나쁘면, 각 접착 부분을 약간의 접착제 제거제로 2-3분 정도 적시고 나서 여는 픽 또는 키트의 다른 도구 중 하나로 긁어내야 합니다. 이 절차는 아주 많은 노력이 필요하므로 인내심을 가져야 합니다.

    • 남아있는 모든 접착제 제거제를 닦아내고 MacBook Pro를 자연 건조할 때까지 몇 분 정도 기다리세요.

    • iFixit 키트에 포함한 교체용 배터리에는 접착제가 사전-설치되어 있습니다. 접착제를 덮고 있는 필름을 벗기기 전에 배터리가 제대로 맞고 정렬하는지 조심히 확인하고 각 셀을 제자리에 단단히 누르세요. 만약 원래 배터리에 없던 추가 필름/라이너가 있다면 마지막에 떼세요.

    • 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하세요: 배터리를 100% 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 더 충전하세요. 그런 다음 플러그는 뽑고 정상적으로 사용하여 배터리를 방전하세요. 배터리 부족 경고가 나타나면 작업을 저장하고 배터리 부족으로 인해 절전 모드가 활성화될 때까지 노트북을 켜놓으세요. 최소한 5시간 이상을 기다리고 나서 노트북을 중단없이 100% 충전하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치한 다음 비정상적 작동 또는 문제가 발생하면 MacBook의 SMC를 재설정해야 합니다.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - 답글

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - 답글

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - 답글

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - 답글

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - 답글

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - 답글

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - 답글

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - 답글

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - 답글

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - 답글

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - 답글

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - 답글

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - 답글

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - 답글

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - 답글

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - 답글

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - 답글

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - 답글

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - 답글

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - 답글

결론

새 교체 부품을 원래 부품과 비교하세요—설치하기 전에 나머지 부품을 옮기거나 새 부품에서 접착 뒷면을 제거해야 할 수 있습니다.

기기를 재조립하려면 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.

전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.

수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까?

기본 문제 해결, 또는 자사의 답변 포럼에서 도움을 받으세요.

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Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2009년 10월 17일

458,575 평판

안내서 410개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

131 회원들

안내서 12,990개 작성하였습니다

is it possible to use MBP early 2015's battery on a late 2013 model?

gianluca pertosa - 답글

No, they're different parts.

fastasleep -

I wonder the same.

Amazon https://www.amazon.de/EGOWAY-A1493-A1582... claims to work for

Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 11.1 13" Retina A1502 ME864xx/A / ME865xx/A/ ME866xx/A - (Late 2013 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 MGX72xx/A / MGX82xx/A / MGX92xx/A - (Mid 2014 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 12.1 13" Retina A1502 MF839xx/A / MF840xx/A/ MF841xx/A/ MF843xx/A - (Early 2015 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.7 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.9 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 3.1

Martin -

Thanks to this guide I saved my broken MacBook Pro from a coffee spill that killed the battery. It cost me about 30% compared to what it would have cost to have the battery changed at an Apple authorized repair center. It wasn't easy to do, but that just made it all the more satisfying.

One comment: the new battery pack I bought came attached to a thin film which had to be removed. I unfortunately tore off some of the strips of glue attached to the back of the battery cells, before getting the hang of it. No big deal. But if you have to do the same thing: peel slowly.

Fredrik - 답글

After i replace the battery, the new battery is outofsync with osx battery indicator. When the indicator hit the 30% mark the macbook just shutdown completly. How do i syncroniz the new battery with osx?

The tutorial i saw only, tell you to fully charged the battery and let it depleet until the warning message pop up that your battery is low and your mac go into sleep mod. Problem my mac cant go into sleep mod because it thinks that it has 30% left of juice.

Is there any method to change the sleep setting or to force a recalibration?

enis alijagic - 답글

I would download an application called coconut battery from here: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutba...

This will indicate your battery's current health (I am not sure how accurate it is or how it measures the milliamps/hour) which might help you determine when you need to recharge it. I don't know what else you could do but I'd check the battery's health before anything since it might be causing the problem if it is faulty.

Alex Someone -

Brilliant guide, worked a treat.

Was tricky to remove the battery even with iOpener but carefully persevered. Took around 1hr 15 in total.

Thanks so much, this saved my girlfriend a lot of money!

Ben Saunders - 답글

How strong is the adhesive on the iFixit replacement battery, compared to the Apple OEM adhesive? Are we looking at a similar painful extraction process if/when we pull the replacement battery?

For that matter, is an Apple-esque strong adhesive actually necessary in this application? Double-sided tape is usually weaker; it might be a little thinner than the adhesive layer, and certainly far more user serviceable. Would tape be sufficient to hold the battery in place? Once you've got the bottom case screwed back on, the battery is immobilized anyway.

adlerpe - 답글

I really want to know the answer to this one

frugalpov -

It's still going to be fairly painful to remove. The battery needs to be very well secured—you don't want a soft-shell lithium ion battery coming loose and moving around inside the laptop. Even a little bit of movement could be dangerous.

Jeff Suovanen -

Saved me fortune. I was using the laptop for more than year as a desktop. The new battery helped me bring the macbook back to life.

Dipak Patil - 답글

Hi Dipak,

Are you from India? I try to Oder the Mac battery but the product can’t be shipped to India. Is there any other website that I can order the battery?

Tsering Dhondup -

Thanks for the guide! It helped me to save my MacBook from a coffee spill.

Pan Fantomas - 답글

Apple Canada quoted me ~300$ for battery + keyboard replacement though acknowledged that the battery had died prematurely (1.5 years since the date of purchase). When I opened the case two out of six sections were swollen. I ordered from ifixit their battery and the tools and with rate conversion + delivery to the border + taxes at the border it came to 180$. After ~2 hours I have 100% healthy battery installed in my macbook pro and it saved me 120$.

Maxim Bulat - 답글

This kit is a lifesaver. Apple was going to charge me over $800 to repair my battery because it required “more labor” due to the retina display. It took my husband less than an hour to completely replace my battery with this kit.

Kaitlin Pruitt - 답글

Totally doable, took about 15 minutes to unscrew screws and carefully unplug cables. The only time consuming part was the 2-3 minute solvent and wait for each of the 6 cells of the pack. I was intimidate by the difficulty rating but it’s not that bad. Local Apple certified repair shop wanted $350.

Andrew Lamoureux - 답글

It was a lot easier than I thought. I used a wheat cushion we had at home to remove the battery and it took less than ten minutes to remove the old battery.

Peter Olsson - 답글

Actually did this in a different way. Easy 10 minute job ! get a 50mm so called "Japanese putty knife" which usually comes is a set of 3-4 with various widths. Cost about 3 euro and available at any paint shop. They are basically thin METAL versions of the Ifixit plastic card. BUT it can be used differently. Rub the back end over som 80 grit sandpaper to make it sharp. Not too sharp, more like a blunt knife. Now get your girlfriends (or boyfriends :-) ) hair dryer and heat the metal up a bit. Again, not too hot. Then insert it under the first battery and apply some pressure while wiggling it around a bit. The warm tip will easily cut through the glue. Repeat the heating- cutting cycle a few times until all cells are removed. It took me all of 10 minutes to do. I needed to replace te keyboard and I could actually still re-use the battery pack ! Enjoy

Eric Vuurman - 답글

I have repaired many MBP’s in the past. After fixing this one, my keyboard no longer works. I re-read the steps to ensure I was not missing a keyboard connection anywhere but none was to be found. Trackpad works great and there isn’t a single drop of adhesive liquid that was over used or pour over onto. Any ideas?

mrrobertbuss - 답글

Thank you very much.

I order this kit and got it deliver to Colombia (South America). Even with shipping and taxes, it cost me less than half of what an Apple Authorised Service Provider was charging me.

Instructions are clear and complete.

Just do it with patience and all will be fine.

Federico Jaramillo Martínez - 답글

Everything is working perfectly, very detailed steps, perfect explanations! Thank you for this beautiful guide, it was such a pleasure to complete each step!

Bogdan Cateriniuc - 답글

Just completed this. Was much easier and quicker than I thought. Apple wanted 700 dollars to “fix” coffee spilled on my laptop. Couldn’t just replace the battery, had to do this and that and blah blah blah for 700 dollars. Ran a diagnostics test and noticed only my battery was kaput. Bought the kit here through iFixit and this was my first computer job, ever. Not bad at all and typing on that very computer as we speak. Thanks for the awesome kit and for this awesome guide!

b_rg_r - 답글

@b_rg_r Congrats! Be sure to look over the logic board carefully if you haven’t done so yet—any lingering spills or corrosion can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush and >90% isopropyl alcohol. More detailed instructions are here. Liquid damage can be tricky and will sometimes behave normally for a while until the corrosion builds up, and then things suddenly go sideways, so check carefully! Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The procedures work like a charm.

Thanks for the comprehensive guidelines.

Note: Make sure to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. I forgot in the first try an my trackpad and keyboard was not working. :D

Jagajith Monappan Kalarickal - 답글

Das hat super geklappt ,ich bin sehr zufrieden.

Guido Lucas - 답글

Hello! my children spill coconut oil on my MacBook pro and everything work normally but when I removed the battery I drill one cell of the battery. I just have an interesting question: is it possible to dissociate the perfored cell to the others and continue to use the same battery ?

tex - 답글

A damaged battery is potentially dangerous and shouldn’t be used. Liquid damage alone is often enough to make it unsafe; with a puncture, it’s a no-brainer. Get a new battery. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, find a repair shop that can replace it for you. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

THANKS to ifixit!!! Works perfectly!!! The battery as well as the description!

Tobias Ehlers - 답글

I just finished replacing the battery. The guide was just perfect and the machine lives!

ershler - 답글

I buy battery kit. I follow guide. My computer now has 103% state of health and an extra 3 hours of run time. Perfect.

I’m not sure I would call this guide difficult - don’t let this put you off. If you follow all the steps and go carefully with the adhesive remover (and don’t prod too forcefully with those cards) it should all go smoothly. Much easier than things like replacing iPhone home buttons where there are lots of ways you can make a mess. Great work iFixit for the guide and a very high quality replacement battery. €100 saved.

Alex - 답글

Merci pour ce guide très très utile ! Premièrement Attention positionnement de la nouvelle batterie ++ voir plus bas !

L’opération est délicate mais largement faisable même pour un débutant sans expérience d’électronique !

Bien préparer le travail, lire le tutoriel et savoir toutes les étapes est essentiel ! S’organiser en terme de place, d’outils, lumière, perturbation extérieure est aussi important pour pas se faire dépasser par les événements !

J’aimerais aussi dire que au début on n’ose pas forcer pour déconnecter certains câbles mais c’est bien car en fait cela vient relativement facilement si on tire dans le bon sens ! Certains sont plus dur que d’autre mais on comprend vite comment on peut forcer ou pas.

La nouvelle batterie … faites attention a son positionnement +++ . Pour mon expérience avant de la coller j’ai voulu tester la batterie avec les haut parleurs et vérifier si tout se positionnaient correctement ! Après avoir mis des marques au crayon de bois j’ai pu continuer sereinement.

Encore Merci :) !

marot - 답글

Thanx for the tutorial but was a trackpad issue macbook pro 2015 i changed it put back the battery the laptop is working very fine 300 cycles of battery BUT I GET SERVICE BATTERY when i click the battery icon how do i get rid of it

allen rwegasila - 답글

The battery in this laptop should never be re-used after being removed—it’s easily damaged and becomes a potential fire hazard. Replace the battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

This guide was fantastic and helped me plan and execute the task. I did everything as instructed except for removing the trackpad cable in step 20. I wasn’t sure how the ZIF cable attached and didn’t want to risk it. The cable was only marginally in the way and didn’t affect the install. I’m performing the calibration now and we’ll see how long the battery holds up… at least I’m confident that the install was perfect. It is also helpful when the back is off to take a peek around and clean up any dust balls, gunk, etc.

B P - 답글

Thanks for this guide it is great! But after replacing the battery trackpad is dead. Any idea? should i replace cable?

Tomaz Utrosa - 답글

Same here, just replaced the battery tonight precisely following the ifixit guide and the trackpad is not functioning. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Double-check everything in Steps 17-20. Make sure the sockets are clean and the cable is fully seated at both ends, and that there’s no damage to the cable itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu I rechecked and reconnected several times. Checked sockets, replaced the ribbon cable and I/O board cable. Installed the battery at 35%, it is not holding charge and the MacBook remains at 1% and dies immediately if unplugged. Reconnected the battery and no difference. At login screen Bluetooth mouse and keyboard don’t work but at the disk password login screen the Bluetooth devices work. Macbook’s Trackpad and keyboard still don’t work. What is the solution?

Brian Crink - 답글

Sounds like your machine has multiple issues; this is too much to troubleshoot in the guide comments section. Try posting over in the Answers forum. There are lots of posts on the keyboard/trackpad issue already if you’re looking for ideas. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Super Reparaturanleitung mit dem EU123054-5 MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015) Battery Options: Fix Kit hat das ohne Problme funktioniert.

Dauer etwa 1,5 Std. mit allen Reinigungsarbeiten (Klebereste entfernen) und Wartezeit zum ablüften. Für 110€ gegenüber 230-250€ ist das eine tolle Lösung für einen neuen Accu.

Vielen Dank an Andrew Optimus Goldheart und den 6 anderen Mitwirkenden. Besonderen Dank an Annika Faelker für die super Übersetzung.

Schmitt - 답글

Replaced a very puffed battery using this guide, went just fine using adhesive remover.

It was a bit easier than I assumed, but dealing with that glue is far more irritating than I thought it would be too.

Steve - 답글

Bravo ! Super “Pas à pas”. L’opération s’est déroulée nickel. Mon conseil :

lire intégralement le “Pas à pas” avant d’attaquer. Préparer son matériel, être ordonner et surtout prendre son temps ….

Bruno Villers - 답글

Easy replacement, as long as you are following the instructions. From start to finish: ONE HOUR. I did not use any chemicals to dislodge the old battery — instead I used a hair dryer (set to medium) to apply heat to the old battery. The new battery went in just fine, and, in a few minutes, the laptop was happy again. Thank you, iFixit. Good stuff!

Serge N - 답글

The batteries in my laptop were so puffed that the laptop was bending and the top wouldn’t close properly anymore. So, when OS X says that your batteries need to be serviced, it means it.

That being said, this is *NOT* an easy repair. To start, I cracked the fragile corners on the battery. They are marked on the cellophane covering the battery, but I didn’t notice until *after* I had already cracked them. Sigh. Bought a new battery.

For me, the biggest issue was getting the new batteries in place properly. I had to lift and reposition the batteries with very sticky adhesive several times in order to get the position correct and have enough clearance for the speakers. Some advice/pictures/video on how to put the batteries back in with that sticky adhesive back would help tremendously.

Thanks for the guide and kit. I successfully installed a new battery, but I think I’ll leave this up to folks who do these kinds of battery repairs as a business next time.

Andrew L. - 답글

It is mandatory to check the Age of the new Batterie, the Batterie should not older than on or two Month, from the current Date you will change it.

Also you don’t need a App to check the Batterie, Simply go to The Apple symbol , hit About this Mac, hit System Information, go to Hardware, and hit Power supply , you Batterie Production year/month how many charge cycles and so and so

esg2 - 답글

It is maybe cheaper to remove the Batterie at your own, but the solvent can destroy a lot of the inner stuff of your MacBook when come into Places it should not go.and there is a high Risk to damage some stuff on the MotherBoard . And there is one Important thing you have to consider, no Garantie if something goes wrong you are on yourself. So saving 120$ dollar is no Option if you destroy your Motherboard . I’d rather pay the 350$ for the Change even I am qualified enough to do it myself, and there is also in the case the new Batterie is to old I can go Back and let them Change it and this time for free. Li-Po Batteries aging also when not used.

esg2 - 답글

SENSATIONELL! Superschnelle Lieferung meines Ersatzakkus. Akku genau nach Anleitung eingebaut, alles funktioniert. Ersatzakkus + Werkzeug + Anleitung = PERFEKT.

Oliver Schmucker - 답글

Thank you very much, my battery was swollen and I got an outrageous quote from Apple Authorized dealer for the battery replacement. did it myself and saved over 60% of the cost.

Thank you once again. it took me about 1.5 hours to complete, I didn’t use the solvent, i used I-remover and the battery removed in about 10 minutes.

Adewale Soetan - 답글

I replaced my broken battery today, began charging but it stalled at 51% (I don’t know where it started). It says that the battery condition is at the ‘Replace Now’ stage.

I’m not even sure where to begin troubleshooting this.

Nathan Bryant - 답글

My battery stills in 1% and says battery condition “replace now”, did the SMC reset and remains with the same problem, someone help!!

Santiago García -

This was much easier than than expected, the adhesive remover (which I think is just acetone) worked really well. I was worried that the cause of the problem was the battery charging controller and the the swelling would just return, but did not realize that the controller comes with the battery, so I am less concerned now. I was also concerned that the swelling, which caused the laptop not to sit properly on a desk, and the cover to fully close would still remain after replacing the battery, but it seems like this was all due to the swollen battery and once replaced everything seems fine (sits flat and cover fully closes again)

John Davis - 답글

If I change the battery on a MacBook Pro running Catalina, will it still work or is there a mechanism Apple build in Catalina so it won’t accept the battery as its own and therefore prohibt to run?

Hannes - 답글

Hi guys,

great kit and great instructional video. I have successfully replaced my old battery with the new one. However, even after 3 SMC resets the batteries is not being recognised and it doesn’t charge.

what might be the cause and the solution? Thank you

Edward - 답글

same problem, my battery stills in1% “replace battery”

Santiago García -

What’s the difference to the late 2014 battery?

IF123-054-5 A1582 for A1502 Early 2015 (6560 mAh) vs.

IF123-053 A1493 for A1502 Mid 2014 (6330 mAh)

I’m afraid they are incompatible?

Martin - 답글

However, products such as B07H31GXJ2 claim to compatible for both A1582 and 1493

Martin -

I was not sure of my abilities, but I needed to fix my MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015). This seemed to be the best, though slightly more expensive, way to go about it. I’m happy about how it all went. I did a few of the short cuts and used a hair dryer instead of the adhesive remover, though it required a bit more muscle and patience. I appreciate all the efforts of those involved.

Frank Rowland - 답글

I replaced the battery of my Mac successfully and everything is working as expected. The only issue I have, is that the outer segments of the new battery do not seem to hold on to the case. It seems as though the adhesive is not sticky enough. Before installing the new battery I made sure that the case was completely clean; all remnants of the old adhesive were removed.

Any tips on how to fix this? Just glue it in? If so, with which glue? Doublesided tape? There’s a bit too much free space inside the case, so if I move my laptop, I can hear the battery segments move inside the case…

Michiel Katgert - 답글

My battery came with 86% charge but of course, condition as normal for full charge capacity and longevity. Cheers. Took me 26 minutes for entire job. I’ve done several of these though, prepare for an hour at least your first time and GO SLOW and double check everything as you go.

Faslane - 답글

Hat alles perfekt geklappt, danke für die hervorragende Anleitung. Ich hatte den Kleber mi einem Föhn erwärmt das ging auch.

lothardietrich - 답글

Klasse Anleitung, hat hervorragend funktioniert.

Habe das Gehäuse von Außen mit dem Fön erwärmt, 2 Minuten gewartet und dann den Akku herausgenommen.

Gruß Frank

Frank Düding - 답글

One note for having a grand finale: turn the laptop around while reattaching the battery to its port in order to get a better view of how secure it is in place.

I completed all the final steps in reverse and closed my laptop up, only to power it on and see that it wasn’t recognizing the new battery (battery icon had an X through it). So I had to remove the bottom cover and again and make sure it was fastened. Turns out that I had only clicked it half into place. All is well now and I couldn’t be happier with the kit and guide! Thank you so much.

Genevieve Goebel - 답글

Hallo,

nach dem Tausch lässt sich das MB nicht mehr starten.

Ein/Aus / P+R+alt+cmd

Also auch ein SMC Reset mit

Ctrl+alt+shift / Ein/Aus

helfen nicht weiter.

Hin und wieder zeigt der Bildschirm mal eine Batterie mit rotem Balken an, aber unregelmäßig.

Einbau hatte problemlos funktioniert.

Kennt jemand eine Lösung?

niklas - 답글

hattest du eine Lösung finden können?

Zk_bln -

El extraño caso de un MacBook Pro 13” retina de 2015 cuya batería se hinchó de repente después de sólo 20 ciclos de uso.

Un aparato siempre conectado a la red y que siempre se usó como ordenador de escritorio.

Misteriosamente la batería marca 6957mAh de capacidad siendo su capacidad de diseño 6559mAh.

macOS Battery Status GOOD

Jorge Gil - 답글

This was a straightforward repair thanks to the good instructions. This is my first battery swap in a MB Pro after 2 easy ones in MacBook Airs. The adhesive makes this one more complicated. Still took less than an hour, going slow and double checking everything as I went. 2 shortcuts I found: 1) No need to completely disconnect the right speaker. Work the cable loose along the edge of the battery, remove the screws and swing the speaker out of the way. 2) Only need to disconnect the logic board end of the trackpad cable. Another tip: make sure the outermost cells are positioned in such a way that the speakers drop in place. It’s easy to slightly misposition the cell and prevent the speaker(s) from seating properly. Overall, this is another quality repair kit from iFixit.

lmoyers50 - 답글

I replaced my battery in an hour and 20 minutes, no issues following the very concise instructions. Excellent instructions and iFixit battery parts/tool kit. A picture of the Torx screws would make the assembly instructions infallible.

azimuthdave - 답글

Extrem schnelle Lieferung, hervorragende Reparaturanleitung und klasse Werkzeug. Passt!! Nach sorgfältig durchgeführter Vorgehensweise, war “das Projekt” in gut zwei Stunden erledigt. Jetzt noch die Kalibrierung des Akkus ausführen. Danke dafür …

Micha Buchwald - 답글

Very good instructions. Make sure you remember where the screws go because they are in different lengths. I wish I got the ihotopener because the adhesive was really hard to pull them off.

Susu Wong - 답글

Thanks for the very helpful guide really made this repair easy and the adhesive remover made a world of a difference . I advise anyone about to do this repair to purchase the kit provided here it will be money well spent :)

Kyle Bradshaw - 답글

Hello, I recently bought a battery to replace in my MacBook Pro 13” Early 2015. Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted and I was in business…however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component? Not related, but I had previously updated the SSD successfully with a new WD SSD/NVE PCIe adapter and got one” question mark folder” in the first day of installing it. It hasn’t happened since, so fingers crossed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cris A - 답글

Hey, could u fix this problem?

Zk_bln -

Exactly same tging happen to my macbook after i replace battery. Any solutions?

nirmal2008 -

Great guide, works perfectly!

Sammy Valentino - 답글

Hice todo el proceso, pero al encender la mac, no me reconoce la batería

Juan Martin - 답글

Hi Juan, problem solved ?

Solucionado ?

Joel Marti -

Completed on my MBP, the original battery has had around 260 cycles now. Still love this little guy, so I’m glad I’m able to get the battery swapped and feels like new again! In the process also cleaned/re-applied the thermal paste on the CPU and swapped out the SSD!

Ming Lee - 답글

Changed battery successfully but Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and plug charger and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component?

nirmal2008 - 답글

my Boss spilled a glass of water over his laptop, and the apple store declared it broken, so he got a new one. Now with all this home office stuff happening, I needed a stronger laptop (i am a designer and worked with a MacBook air)

This was my first ever computer fix, and I was able to fix it all on my own, with no problems at all!

Now everything is working fine again, so thanks a lot for these amazingly detailed instructions!

Uxfocus - 답글

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