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Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board.

Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 답글

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 답글

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 답글

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 답글

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 답글

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 답글

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 답글

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 답글

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 답글

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 답글

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 답글

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 답글

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 답글

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 답글

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 답글

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 답글

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 답글

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 답글

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 답글

  6. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - 답글

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 답글

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - 답글

  7. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - 답글

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - 답글

  8. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • One 2.7 mm T5 screw (silver)

    • Four T5 screws (black)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - 답글

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - 답글

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - 답글

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - 답글

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - 답글

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins - 답글

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert - 답글

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan - 답글

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma - 답글

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox - 답글

  9. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. When reassembling your computer, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.
  10. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - 답글

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - 답글

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - 답글

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - 답글

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - 답글

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - 답글

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - 답글

    Thanks Ross! This was my 2nd time every opening a laptop and using two finger nails to push on the little indents worked amazing!

    Carolyn Wang - 답글

  11. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - 답글

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - 답글

    Take a close look at the spacing in the 3 photos. You essentially just flip the tab 90 degrees to stay vertical, then you pull the cable carefully out. When putting the new one in, no need to press hard. Just a little bit so you have that 2-3 mm spacing and then flip the tab back down.

    Daniel - 답글

  13. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - 답글

  14. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.
    • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - 답글

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - 답글

  15. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  17. Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  19. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

  21. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    In my 2015 retina MacBook Pro 13”: I saw as shown the piece of black plastic tape. One peels this off as shown, using the same tweezers shown, or something else. The tweezers shown work well to lift the stainless steel clip, again as shown. But I add here that the points of the ribbon cable to grab and pull horizontally back are not optimal, as shown. You do not have to grab the ribbon. There are two points where the wire clip attaches to the connector that work well as places to grab with the tweezers shown. Hope this is clear

    Thomas Sturgill - 답글

  22. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

    I wasn’t careful enough or something, the socket came straight off, ouch. I don’t even see how it was connected originally. Not soldered or anything, will try to solder myself but it looks very thin. Be careful!

    Ray Dai - 답글

  24. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  25. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    This tiny connector was difficult for me, and I hope I have not damaged it. Same design as some connectors already removed. A tiny, plastic front latch is lifted up, causing release. You grab the ribbon cable and pull it back horizontally, and to my surprise, this is end is just one tiny flat metal end, no multiple wire connectors that mate on the male end of the ribbon cable.

    Thomas Sturgill - 답글

  26. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

    Also very difficult, because there is so little room to wriggle the ribbon cable, horizontally and backward. The photos do not offer a solution. The points I used are white (at least not black) points on the both, outer edges, and I was able to push there with the tip of the spudger.

    Thomas Sturgill - 답글

  27. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board. Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the trackpad connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the cable out back over the battery to clear the way for the logic board.

  29. Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Il y en a une plus longue que les autres.

    Easy Repair - 답글

  30. Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case. Remove the logic board. Remove the logic board.
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    It won't come off; help!

    Zelma Garza - 답글

    It seems to be stuck on the thunderbolt ports for me won’t come out

    Brendan O'Rourk - 답글

  31. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    It looks like this picture is not a 820-4924-A motherboard (A1502 2015 13in. MBPr). It must come from a previous version of Macbook pros. Don’t panic if the RAM chips on the top right corner do not look exactly the same on your board and on this picture.

    Mipam - 답글

  32. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Any idea where the power on pads are ?

Sebastien

Sébastien - 답글

I did not need to remove the heat sink. You can simply remove part of the fan assembly in about 1 minute and the heat sink and its associated arm with fins comes right out. Removing the heat sink introduces unnecessary complications that could destroy your logic board should you perform an incorrect repair on the thermal paste.

vwbus1979 - 답글

Only part i am missing is how to give the new board it's serial number

Pascal Hoffmann - 답글

me too,me too,

RadioDisney -

You can order a new bottom plate with the new serial nummer custom printed. Several suppliers in China provide that service.

Robert72 -

any guides for putting it back together? taking it apart without damaging the board is one thing. but putting it back is more than just doing the steps in reverse.

Jaziel Tan - 답글

Can explain what the pad is that between battery and Edge. Thanks

孟令涛 - 답글

Where can I buy the cpu foam stickers ?

Regards

Marco Luigi Carlo - 답글

Where I can buy logic board for Macbook Pro Retina 13” Early 2015 Model

Chandrashekhar - 답글

Chandrashekhar: you can buy the logic board from Amazon or Ebay you just have to make sure you can trust the seller and the product.

-Denver

Denver Robison - 답글

Solid, detailed instruction guide. I bought a logic board that came with a new heat sink, which made installation even easier. If you did the same, you can skip step 8, on step 9 you only have to remove the 2.7 mm screw, and skip step 10. You won’t be able to physically remove the fan (step 15), until after you unscrew the logic board (step 30). For reassembly, when you first replace the new logic board, make sure that all of the connectors and cables are clear of being trapped under the logic board before screwing it in, particularly the keyboard and microphone cable. Best way to do this is skim through the instructions again and check that each connector/cable is visible and then follow reassembly steps.

danielgludman - 답글

I love this clear procedure, thanks for Andrew and the other contributors for providing it! Never thought I’d be able to replace the i5 logic board in my MacBook with a new i7 one, but just did it. I got the new one with the heat sink attached, but decided to remove it and follow the procedure as described, all steps. I put a little Arctic MX-4 compound, only on the CPU (not the GPU) and the i7 works flawlessly. I already replaced the paste on another i5 that had overheating problems before (also thanks to iFixit) so I knew well how to do that.

Robert72 - 답글

I just notice that the i7 is substantially faster than the i5 in Geekbench 5’s CPU benchmark, but Geekbench 5’s Compute benchmark (which only tests the GPU) actually comes with a lower score. I found out the reason - the i7 CPU becomes much hotter than the i5, and the i7’s heat negatively affects the Compute benchmark score. When I force the Fans to full blow using Mac Fan Control, the Compute benchmark of the i7 actually is higher than on the i5. Anyone see these same problems, with the i7 getting hotter than the i5?

Robert72 - 답글

Superb guide. Just saved another laptop from landfill

Bill Ambrose - 답글

How do I remove the bracket that’s to the right of the usb/hdmi port by the fan? Rather, can someone tell me how to change out those ports?

Renole Ev - 답글

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