소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 오른편 스피커를 교체하세요.
필요한 것
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하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:
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2.3mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개
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3.0mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 여덟 개
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배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.
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핀셋을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터 보드의 오른쪽 하단 근처의 작은 플라스틱 덮개를 분리하세요.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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핀셋으로 인터포저를 잡으세요.
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인터포저를 로직 보드에서 들어 올려 분리하세요.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터의 오른편을 I/O 보드 소켓에서 들어올리세요.
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I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터 왼편 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 쐐기로 고정하세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 살짝 비틀어 로직 보드 소켓에서 I/O 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 분리하세요.
I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..
Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 SSD 케이블 커넥터를 들어 올리세요.
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SSD 케이블 커넥터를 치우세요.
As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.
This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.
I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.
Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!
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오른편 스피커 케이블 커넥터 아래에 spudger/스퍼저의 뾰족한 끝을 쐐기로 고정하세요.
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로직 보드 소켓에서 오른편 스피커 케이블 커넥터를 살살 들어 올리세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
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검정색 6.8mm 나사 한 개
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은색 6.3mm 나사 한 개
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검정색 4.9mm 나사 한 개
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
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상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.
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기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.
다른 33명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
100%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 5개
Thanks for the steps, it worked. But now I am getting Wi-Fi- No hardware installed and Bluetooth Not available error
it worked but the cam is not working now :(
I was able to fix the right speaker using the solvent used to remove the battery provided by iFixit.
Thank you very much for the walkthrough. No problems to follow at all. Everything worked as a charm.
timofej.se - 답글
Thanks very much for the walkthrough. No problems at all. Everything working fine afterwards.
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - 답글
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - 답글
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - 답글