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소개

이 안내서를 사용하여 MacBook Pro의 접착된 배터리를 분리하세요. 이 작업은 iFixit 배터리 교체 키트의 도움으로 가장 잘 할 수 있습니다; 키트의 용액 접착제 제거제는 배터리를 고정하는 접착제를 녹여서 배터리를 수월하게 분리할 수 있습니다. 대안으로, iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 들어 올리기 전에 접착제를 부드럽게 하기 위하여 적당한 양의 열을 가할 수 있습니다.

‘’’iFixit 접착제 제거제는 가연성이 매우 높습니다.’’’ 통풍이 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 수행하세요. 이 과정에서 담배를 피우거나 불 근처에서 작업하지 마세요.

손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 나면 위험하고 통제할 수 없는 화재를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.

참고: 배터리 접착제를 녹이는데 사용하는 용액은 MacBook Pro 플라스틱 스피커 인클로저와 같은 특정 플라스틱을 손상할 수 있습니다. 용액을 바를 때 주의하세요.

(더 이상 판매하지 않는) 별도의 병과 주사기가 있는 옛날 iFixit 접착제 제거제를 사용하는 경우 이곳을 클릭하여 약간 수정한 지침을 보세요.

    • 하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 2.3mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개

    • 3.0mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 여덟 개

    • 이 수리를 하는 동안 각 나사를 기억하고 기기 손상을 방지하기 위해 원래 위치로 정확히 돌아가는 것을 확인하세요.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 답글

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 답글

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 답글

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 답글

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 답글

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 답글

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 답글

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 답글

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 답글

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 답글

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 답글

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 답글

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 답글

  1. 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.
    • 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.

    • 상단 케이스에서 하단 케이스를 조심히 당기세요.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 답글

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 답글

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - 답글

  2. 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다. 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.
    • 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다.

    • 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 답글

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 답글

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 답글

  3. 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.
    • 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 답글

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - 답글

  4. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요. 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.

    • 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 답글

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 답글

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 답글

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 답글

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 답글

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 답글

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 답글

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 답글

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 답글

  5. 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.
    • 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 답글

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 답글

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 답글

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 답글

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  6. I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷 로직 보드 끝을 고정하는 2.1mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
    • I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷 로직 보드 끝을 고정하는 2.1mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 답글

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 답글

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 답글

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 답글

  7. I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷을 핀셋으로 잡고 MacBook에서 분리하세요.
    • I/O 보드 케이블 브래킷을 핀셋으로 잡고 MacBook에서 분리하세요.

  8. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드에서 I/O 보드 커넥터를 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올리세요. 소켓 자체가 아닌 I/O 보드 케이블만 들어 올리세요. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드에서 I/O 보드 커넥터를 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올리세요.

    • 소켓 자체가 아닌 I/O 보드 케이블만 들어 올리세요. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.

  9. I/O 보드 케이블의 로직 보드 끝을 위로 똑바로 들어 올려 구부리세요. 케이블 손상을 방지하려면 케이블의 I/O 보드 끝의 구부러진 부분만 접으세요.
    • I/O 보드 케이블의 로직 보드 끝을 위로 똑바로 들어 올려 구부리세요.

    • 케이블 손상을 방지하려면 케이블의 I/O 보드 끝의 구부러진 부분만 접으세요.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 답글

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 답글

  10. 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 커넥터 근처 오른편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 조심스럽게 집어 넣고 로직 보드의 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 답글

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 답글

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 답글

  11. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요. 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요.
    • 상단 케이스에서 오른편 스피커 케이블을 조심스럽게 떼세요.

  12. 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 오른편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 5.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 6.5mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 3.8mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  13. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요. 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요.
    • 케이블 끝에서 오른편 스피커를 들어 올려 케이스에서 빼세요.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 답글

  14. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 답글

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 답글

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 답글

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 답글

  15. 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 5.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 6.5mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 3.8mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 답글

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 답글

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

  16. 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.
    • 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 답글

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 답글

  17. 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는3.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요.
    • 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는3.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요.

    • 귀하의 특정 장치에는 배터리의 회로 보드를 프레임에 고정하는 나사가 하나 뿐일 수 있습니다.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - 답글

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - 답글

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - 답글

    What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

    dfreeman110 -

    I wish to ask the same question.

    vbivanov -

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - 답글

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - 답글

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - 답글

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - 답글

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - 답글

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - 답글

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - 답글

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - 답글

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - 답글

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - 답글

  18. iFixit 배터리 교체 키트가 제공하는 액상 접착제 제거제는 MacBook Pro 디스플레이의 반사 방지 코팅에 영향을 줄 수 있습니다.
    • iFixit 배터리 교체 키트가 제공하는 액상 접착제 제거제는 MacBook Pro 디스플레이의 반사 방지 코팅에 영향을 줄 수 있습니다.

    • 디스플레이를 보호하기 위해서 작업하는 동안 디스플레이와 키보드 사이에 알루미늄 호일 한 장을 놓아두세요.

    This would be a good 1st step before you even start? easier then?

    martha - 답글

    I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

    Jim Turney - 답글

  19. 액상 접착제 제거제를 포함한 iFixit 배터리 키트가 있다면,  이제 준비하세요. 또는, 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하는 경우, 다음 세 단계는 건너 뛰세요.
    • 액상 접착제 제거제를 포함한 iFixit 배터리 키트가 있다면, 이제 준비하세요.

    • 또는, 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하는 경우, 다음 세 단계는 건너 뛰세요.

    • iFixit 접착제 제거제는, 약한 피부와 눈을 자극하는, 아세톤을 포함하고 있습니다.

    • 접착제 제거제를 취급 및 사용할 때는 보안경을 착용하세요. (키트는 보안경을 포함하고 있습니다.)

    • 보안경 없이 콘택트 렌즈를 착용하지 마세요.

    • 보호 장갑도 키트에 포함되어 있습니다. 피부 자극이 걱정된다면 지금 장갑을 끼세요.

  20. 접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 떼세요. 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병 뚜껑을 돌려 풀거나 여세요. 이렇게 하면 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병의 봉인을 풀어 압력을 균등하게 합니다. 이 단계를 건너 뛰면 팁을 자를 때 접착제 제거제가 예기치 않게 뿜어 나올 수 있습니다.
    • 접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 떼세요.

    • 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병 뚜껑을 돌려 풀거나 여세요.

    • 이렇게 하면 어플리케이터 팁을 자르기 전에 병의 봉인을 풀어 압력을 균등하게 합니다. 이 단계를 건너 뛰면 팁을 자를 때 접착제 제거제가 예기치 않게 뿜어 나올 수 있습니다.

    • 가위를 사용하여 봉인된 어플리케이터 팁을 자르세요.

    • 좁은 팁 가까이 자르면 더 잘 조절할 수 있으므로 소량의 접착제 제거제를 적용할 수 있습니다.

    • 더 진행하기 전에 병 뚜껑을 단단히 돌려 닫으세요.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - 답글

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - 답글

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  21. 가장 오른편 배터리 셀 가장자리 밑에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 골고루 바르세요.
    • 가장 오른편 배터리 셀 가장자리 밑에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 골고루 바르세요.

    • 많이 사용할 필요는 없습니다. 작은 병에는 모든 배터리 셀을 분리하는데 필요한 양의 두 배 이상의 용액이 들어 있습니다.

    • 다음 단계로 진행하기 전에 액상 접착제 제거제가 배터리 셀 밑으로 침투할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 필요한 경우 접착제 제거제를 더 사용하되 한 번에 몇 방울 이상은 적용하지 마세요. 너무 많이 사용하면 접착제 제거제가 키보드 뒷면으로 흘러 잠재적으로 고장낼 수 있습니다.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - 답글

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - 답글

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - 답글

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - 답글

  22. 액상 접착제 제거제가 없는 경우 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착 부분을 따뜻하게하여 부드럽게 한 다음 그 지점을 조심히 들어 올리세요. 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 두개의 절반을 덮으세요.
    • 액상 접착제 제거제가 없는 경우 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 배터리를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 접착 부분을 따뜻하게하여 부드럽게 한 다음 그 지점을 조심히 들어 올리세요.

    • 뜨거운 iOpener를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 두개의 절반을 덮으세요.

    • 약 1분 후, iOpener를 다시 가열하여 가장 오른편 배터리 셀들의 나머지 절반을 덮으세요.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - 답글

    I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

    Jennifer Myer - 답글

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - 답글

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - 답글

  23. 맨 오른편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 밀어 넣어 둘 사이의 접착제를 가르세요. 이 절차를 수행하는 동안 사용하는 도구로 배터리 셀을  손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 손상된 리튬-이온 배터리는 위험한 화학 물질을 누출하거나 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다. 플라스틱 비집는 도구만 사용하세요.
    • 맨 오른편 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 밀어 넣어 둘 사이의 접착제를 가르세요.

    • 이 절차를 수행하는 동안 사용하는 도구로 배터리 셀을 손상하지 않도록 주의하세요. 손상된 리튬-이온 배터리는 위험한 화학 물질을 누출하거나 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다. 플라스틱 비집는 도구만 사용하세요.

    • 뜨거운 iOpener 방법을 사용하며 플라스틱 비집는 도구로 비틀 때 상당한 저항이 있으면 작업을 중단하고 iOpener를 사용하여 작업중인 부분을 다시 가열하세요.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - 답글

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - 답글

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - 답글

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - 답글

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - 답글

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  24. 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀을 후면 케이스에서 들어 올리세요. 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀을 후면 케이스에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀을 후면 케이스에서 들어 올리세요.

  25. 접착제와 인접한 배터리 셀을 분리하려면 위의 단계를 반복하세요: 배터리 셀 밑에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 떨어뜨리고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제를 부드럽게 할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요. 또는, 필요한 경우 iOpener로 이 지점을 다시-가열하세요.
    • 접착제와 인접한 배터리 셀을 분리하려면 위의 단계를 반복하세요:

    • 배터리 셀 밑에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 떨어뜨리고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제를 부드럽게 할 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 또는, 필요한 경우 iOpener로 이 지점을 다시-가열하세요.

    • 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이로 플라스틱 카드를 약 1인치 정도 밀고 셀을 천천히 들어 올려 모든 접착제를 분리하세요.

  26. 플라스틱 카드를 맨 오른쪽 배터리 셀 두 개 밑에 임시로 놓고 상단 케이스에 다시 붙지 않도록합니다. iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요. 다시, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 가장 왼편 배터리 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.
    • 플라스틱 카드를 맨 오른쪽 배터리 셀 두 개 밑에 임시로 놓고 상단 케이스에 다시 붙지 않도록합니다.

    • iOpener를 사용하는 경우 iOpener를 다시 가열하여 이번에는 맨 왼편 배터리 셀에 적용하세요.

    • 다시, iOpener를 각 위치에 약 1분 동안 놓고, 사이사이 다시 데우며, 가장 왼편 배터리 셀의 각 절반을 가열하세요.

  27. 위의 절차를 반복하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요. 각 배터리 셀에 소량의 접착제 제거제를 바르고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요. 두 번째 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.
    • 위의 절차를 반복하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.

    • 각 배터리 셀에 소량의 접착제 제거제를 바르고 접착제 제거제가 침투하여 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 2-3분 정도 기다리세요.

    • 두 번째 플라스틱 카드를 사용하여 상단 케이스에서 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 두 개를 분리하세요.

  28. 두 번째 카드는 왼편 셀 두 개 사이 모서리에 두세요.
    • 두 번째 카드는 왼편 셀 두 개 사이 모서리에 두세요.

    • 다음 단계들에서는, 세 번째 카드 또는 오른쪽 모서리에 있는 카드를 사용할 수 있습니다. 오른쪽 모서리 접착제는 필요할 때 셀을 쉽게 다시 당길 수 있을 만큼 충분히 마르고/식었을 것입니다.

  29. 마지막 배터리 셀 두 개를, 중앙 배터리 셀, 고정하는 접착제를 분리하려면 각 셀에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 더 (아니면 iOpener를) 바르세요. 마지막 배터리 셀 두 개를, 중앙 배터리 셀, 고정하는 접착제를 분리하려면 각 셀에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 더 (아니면 iOpener를) 바르세요.
    • 마지막 배터리 셀 두 개를, 중앙 배터리 셀, 고정하는 접착제를 분리하려면 각 셀에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 더 (아니면 iOpener를) 바르세요.

    • 마지막 배터리 셀 두 개를, 중앙 배터리 셀, 고정하는 접착제를 분리하려면 각 셀에 액상 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울 더 (아니면 iOpener를) 바르세요.

    • 접착제 제거제가, 올바른 방향, 배터리 셀 밑으로 흐르도록 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 몇 인치 치켜들면 도움이 될 수 있습니다. 튼튼한 책이나 폼 블록을 사용하여 작업하는 동안 MacBook Pro 한쪽을 받칠 수 있습니다.

    • 왼편-중앙 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 카드를 1인치 정도 넣어서 셀과 케이스 사이 접착제를 분리하세요.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - 답글

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - 답글

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - 답글

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - 답글

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - 답글

  30. 카드를 다시 빼내고 오른편-중앙 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 약 1인치 정도 넣어서 셀과 케이스 사이 접착제를 분리하세요. 카드를 다시 빼내고 오른편-중앙 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 약 1인치 정도 넣어서 셀과 케이스 사이 접착제를 분리하세요.
    • 카드를 다시 빼내고 오른편-중앙 배터리 셀과 상단 케이스 사이에 약 1인치 정도 넣어서 셀과 케이스 사이 접착제를 분리하세요.

  31. 이제 외부 셀은 자유롭고 두 개의 중앙 셀 두 개만 저항하고 있습니다. 만일 그렇지 않다면, 돌아가서 상단 케이스의 가장 바깥쪽 셀 네 개를 완전히 느슨하게 하세요. 중앙 셀 두 개를 들어 올려 마지막 접착제를 분리하고 기기에서 배터리를 들어 올리세요.
    • 이제 외부 셀은 자유롭고 두 개의 중앙 셀 두 개만 저항하고 있습니다. 만일 그렇지 않다면, 돌아가서 상단 케이스의 가장 바깥쪽 셀 네 개를 완전히 느슨하게 하세요.

    • 중앙 셀 두 개를 들어 올려 마지막 접착제를 분리하고 기기에서 배터리를 들어 올리세요.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - 답글

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

  32. 배터리를 분리하세요. 새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에서 오래된 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.
    • 배터리를 분리하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에서 오래된 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.

    • 운이 좋으면 손가락으로 접착제 조각을 천천히 당겨 빼낼 수 있습니다.

    • 그렇지 않으면 각 접착 부분을 약간의 접착제 제거제로 2-3분 동안 적신 다음 여는 픽 또는 키트의 다른 도구 중 하나로 긁어내야 합니다. 이는 꽤 많은 노력이 필요로 합니다. 인내심을 가지세요.

    • 남아있는 모든 접착제 제거제를 닦아내고 MacBook Pro를 자연 건조할 때까지 몇 분 정도 기다리세요.

    • iFixit 키트에 포함된 교체용 배터리에는 접착제가 사전-설치되어 있습니다. 접착제를 덮고 있는 필름을 벗기기 전에 배터리가 맞는지 시험하고 조심히 정렬하고 각 셀을 제자리에 단단히 누르세요. 만약 원래 배터리에 없었던 추가 필름/라이너가 있으면 지금 분리하세요.

    • 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하세요: 배터리를 100% 충전한 다음 최소 두 시간 더 충전하세요. 그런 다음 플러그는 뽑고 정상적으로 사용하여 배터리를 방전하세요. 배터리 부족 경고가 나타나면 작업을 저장하고 배터리 부족으로 인해 절전 모드가 활성화될 때까지 노트북을 켜놓으세요. 최소한 5시간 이상을 기다리고 나서 노트북을 중단없이 100% 충전하세요.

    • 새 배터리를 설치한 다음 비정상적 작동 또는 문제가 발생하면 MacBook의 SMC를 재설정해야 합니다.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - 답글

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - 답글

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - 답글

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - 답글

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - 답글

결론

기기를 재조립하려면 이 지침을 역순으로 따르세요.

다른 295명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:

100%

Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
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Sam Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2012년 10월 18일

423,179 평판

안내서 547개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

Community

132 회원들

안내서 13,016개 작성하였습니다

Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - 답글

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - 답글

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - 답글

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - 답글

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - 답글

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - 답글

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - 답글

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .

Thx

david - 답글

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - 답글

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.

Thanks

Jaeger - 답글

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - 답글

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - 답글

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - 답글

Very useful guide.

office - 답글

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - 답글

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - 답글

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - 답글

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - 답글

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - 답글

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - 답글

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

笑得像个300斤的孩子 - 답글

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - 답글

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - 답글

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - 답글

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - 답글

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - 답글

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - 답글

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - 답글

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - 답글

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - 답글

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - 답글

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - 답글

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - 답글

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - 답글

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - 답글

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

took me 45 minutes and I did not purchase any of the tools or fluid, just used lolly sticks and patience, Brough the battery from china for £30 with the special screwdrivers needed.

james essex - 답글

Thank you Sam, again. I replaced this battery yesterday in my son’s computer. It was my “practice” before daring to touch my own computer. It went without a glitch. This is a clear and comprehensive guide. I am a 67 yo retired accountant and had never done anything like this before. Today I did my computer (early 2013) again with no problems. I feel empowered!

maria longo - 답글

Thank you, just changed the battery using ifixit’s kit. Only problem i have is that i have tried to follow the instruction to calibrate the battery however, when my mac got to 15% it went to sleep and I had to connect the power cord. I tried to disconnect it again and it went again to sleep. So I can’t really follow the calibration guide since the computer doesn’t turn off because it runs out of battery, instead it goes to sleep.

Max Ime - 답글

Reseted the smc seems to work fine now. Also, i’ve used a different method to replace the battery which seemed much easier to me. I have used a string as a saw instead of the provided cards. I was able to smoothly and quickly remove each cell

Max Ime -

It was pretty easy to follow the guide; everything went well.

Zsolt Safrany - 답글

Hi all. I changed the battery, most difficult was remove battery. When I start the laptop I noticed the trackpad doesn’t work, fun is working quickly ( since first minute and even cold) and everything run slowly. Do you know what can I do?. many thanks

Niko Las - 답글

Worked perfectly! However looking at the design of the laptop looks like it’s not necessary to remove all the components like the guide tell you to do, the battery can be disconnected at step 2!

is there a reason why everything must be removed before removing the battery? Is it the danger of acetone affecting the electronic components?

Amritaansh Verma - 답글

I just replaced the battery, It was a &&^&^$^ anxiety driven process. The screws that came with the battery were the hardest to deal with but I kinda said &&^& it and left it alone. The acetone is terrifying but with paper towels and working very slowly it was possible to get the battery out, the glue out and not experience any issues. Keyboard is fine, I’m waiting now to charge then kill the replacement. Will update if I have any issues.

Diana Gutierrez - 답글

Akkuwechsel ging mit der Anleitung und dem iFixit-Akku-Kit (MacBook Pro 13" Retina late 2013) sehr gut, habe zusätzlich zum Aceton “gewachste Zahnseide” zum Lösen der Akkusteile benutzt.

Battery change went very well with the manual and the iFixit battery kit (MacBook Pro 13 "Retina late 2013), in addition to the acetone "waxed dental floss" used to release the battery parts.

Markus Illian - 답글

Hello, my battery is completely dead. It’s on 0% and unable to be charged. (Charger is working properly) According to battery health apps, it has 0 mAH. The status of the battery is replace now. When the status was on “service battery” the macbook was performing normally. But now it’s extremely slow. Should i do something before trying to install a new battery?

Kristian - 답글

@alphaumi I’d replace that battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have just replaced my battery. It was way easier than i have expected, but one should follow the steps carefully. With the new battery the laptop is way faster as well!

Kristian -

Brilliant - done in 50 mins ‘con calma’ saved £450 on price quoted by apple.

Oliver Craig - 답글

Thank you for this excellent replacement kit and superb guide. I followed the steps without any problems and they match the procedure without mistakes. I recovered the battery capacity.

Great job!

Ricardo Cortes - 답글

I used a hairdryer and credit cards to get the adhesive loose. Not saying you should use a hairdryer, just saying it worked for me just fine.

Pentalobe + torx + hairdryer + credit cards (or nylon string) is all you need.

For some reason my battery didn’t have any screws except for the one near the connector which was strange but whatevs. The adhesive seems to be holding well enough.

Moe Poe - 답글

Replaced it in about 2 hours. Getting the old batteries out was by far the hardest part, especially since they were already swollen and I wanted to be extra careful.

New battery reports 0 cycles and 100% health as expected. Tools were perfect. I did use the string method for the 2 center batteries. Although it would’ve worked with the solvent too.

iFixit is the best. I hope this site exists forever and will continue supporting them.

Thank you!

Joni Van Roost - 답글

Awesome guide! I am so happy that my computer now works at full capacity. And so easy with the step-by-step :)

Kayla Fuller - 답글

MUCH appreciation to the author of this guide, and to those who have posted very helpful comments along the way. The instructions - and especially the photos - are outstanding. This repair is definitely not “easy,” but it is certainly do-able. It’s important to follow the instructions very carefully, without jumping around, to assure no damage to delicate connectors. This repair should breathe new life into one of the very best laptop models ever made by Apple. My old battery lasted six years. If the replacement lasts half as long, I’ll be happy.

Ralph Begleiter - 답글

Excellent instructions! Very detailed and thorough.

Harsha S - 답글

I bought a new battery couple of months ago. It worked fine till now. The battery is not charging. Stays at 1%. Tried removing the battery, and putting it back in (as advised), but it didnt help. Tried with other charger, didnt help, tried charging other macbook with my charger and it worked. Any Ideas what can I do?

Kristian - 답글

@alphaumi You might want to try a simple SMC reset first, but from your description my guess would be it’s a defective battery. :(

Jeff Suovanen -

Removing the old battery is the most time-consuming part of this repair. Patience is ESSENTIAL.

Meanwhile, I used this repair as an opportunity to do some “dusting”. I’d thought I’d been pretty responsible about keeping my PB clean, transporting it safely, etc. I was flabbergasted how much dust and debris had accumulated in 5 yrs. of use! I used a bulb blower to dust some areas. I used a small vacuum with tiny attachments (great for cleaning sewing machines, electronics, etc.) to suck out addition loose crud.

ellamama - 답글

Well done instructions, even if a little over-kill. I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

Jim Turney - 답글

Wouldn’t it be more effective to apply heat below the batteries? You’d have to unfold the laptop and prop it up somehow, but still…

mcbohdo - 답글

My ifixit batteries were so bloated that it took nothing but a hair dryer to get them out.

little - 답글

Easy to replace and works excellent! I did forget to wait 5 hours after depleting the battery.. Is it really a big issue? Its charging now..

erik - 답글

Worked very well. Took about 1:30h while working very carefully. MBP works again like a charm - thanks so much :)

Sebastian Will - 답글

I have been using this laptop for 6 years until the battery completely died and it became super slow. I was considering to get a new laptop but thanks to this guide i got the courage to replace the battery myself and now it works like a charm again. Thousand thanks for the guide.

Ümit Orhan - 답글

I managed to remove battery with dental floss and using rubber gloves for electricians, not the ones that came with the kit. Using dental floss was super easy and quick (around 20 minutes to get the battery out), just do it slowly and pull gently to each side once you get it under. Dental floss does break often, two or three times for each battery component. I suppose this was so easy because my laptop is now 6,5 years old and old battery has swollen a bit, so I don’t know if this advice would help with newer batteries. Also, I didn’t disconnect speaker cables from mainboard and just moved them to each side a bit so that a battery can come out. For me longest process was cleaning with adhesive after the battery was out, so I’m glad that I ordered the full kit with adhesive remover.

johnnyzg - 답글

Just finished this replacement thanks to this guide. Super excited to see my MacBook brought back to life. It’s still good despite being 7 years old.

I used the threading technique to break out the adhesive behind the battery. A lot less messy and risky than using the acetone I reckon. I only used acetone to clean up the old glue before putting in the new battery.

However, when I went to start it up again I noticed my MacBook was super slow. I then tried pulling the power plug to see what would happened. The whole computer complete shutdown.

Turns out the battery wasn’t being detected by the MacBook. I tried resetting the SMC to no avail.

So I opened it up again and noticed that the battery connected was only on half way and tilted to the side. I pressed it down firmly and it convincingly clicked into place.

Almost had a heart attack but thankfully everything is all good. Battery is reading 1 cycle and 6783mAh capacity.. super sweet! The MacBook feels like new again. Will calibrate to get the most from it

Cheers!

Tony Le - 답글

I followed the guide very carefully but now when I turn on the laptop the fan is very loud and then I tried to turn on my WiFi but it doesn't turn in. Can you tell me if there is a known reason for this please

Vimal chavda - 답글

I managed to stop the fan, but still my WiFi doesn't turn on. It DOESNT say that it can't do it, just when I click it, doesn't do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Other than that, the guide is spot on, thanks so much

Vimal chavda -

i dont use the solvent , i use cord like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBr_EdoB...

Return - 답글

Straightforward and easy to follow guide. I would normally freak out doing anything so fiddly, but the guide is great and helped me lots. Took about 45 minutes. Get a bunch of empty containers and post its to write the step and part name and keep everything organised and separate. Very happy to have finished this in one go and without any issues.

markdebono - 답글

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