이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 따라서 MacBook Pro의 접착된 배터리를 iFixit 접착제 제거제 교체 키트의 도움으로 교체하세요. 접착제 제거제는 원래 배터리를 고정하는 접착제를 약화시켜 배터리 분리를 수월하게 합니다.
‘’’iFixit 접착제 제거제는 가연성이 매우 높습니다.’’’ 통풍이 잘되는 곳에서 이 절차를 따르세요. 불 근처에서 담배를 피우거나 작업하지 마세요.
손상 위험을 최소화하려면 이 절차를 시작하기 전에 MacBook을 켜고 배터리를 완전히 방전하세요. 충전된 리튬-이온 배터리에 실수로 구멍이 나면 위험하고 걷잡을 수 없는 화재가 발생할 수 있습니다. 배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 추가 예방 조치를 취하세요.
참고: 배터리 접착제를 녹이는데 사용하는 용액은 MacBook Pro 플라스틱 스피커 인클로저와 같은 특정 플라스틱을 손상할 수 있습니다. 모든 지침을 따르고 어디에 접착제 제거제를 발라야 하는지 주의하세요.
필요한 것
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Mac 전원을 켜고 Terminal/터미널을 시작하세요.
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다음 명령을 복사하여 Terminal/터미널에 붙여 넣으세요 (또는 정확히 입력하세요).
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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[return]을 누르세요. 관리자 암호 입력 메시지가 나타나면 관리자 암호를 입력하고 [return]을 다시 누르세요. 참고: return 키는 ⏎ 또는 "enter/입력"으로 표시되어 있을 수도 있습니다.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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P5 Pentalobe/별나사 드라이버를 사용하여 하단 케이스를 고정하는 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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6.2mm 나사 두 개
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3.4mm 나사 네 개
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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MacBook Pro 전면-중앙 근처 하단 케이스에 흡입 핸들을 사용하세요.
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흡입 핸들을 들어 올려 하단 케이스와 섀시사이에 약간의 틈을 만드세요.
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여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스와 섀시사이의 틈에 넣으세요.
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여는 픽의 한쪽 모서리를 하단 케이스와 섀시사이의 틈에 넣으세요.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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가장 중앙에 위치한 나사 구멍 두 개 중 하나 근처 하단 케이스 전면 가장자리 밑으로 여는 픽을 다시 한 번 넣으세요.
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픽을 단단히 비틀어 하단 케이스를 섀시에 고정하는 세 번째 클립이 풀리도록 하세요.
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맞은편의 가장 중앙에 위치한 나사 구멍 두 개 근처에 이 절차를 반복하여 네 번째 클립을 풀어주세요.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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하단 케이스를 MacBook 전면을 향해 단단히 당겨 (힌지 부분에서 멀리) 하단 케이스를 고정하는 마지막 클립을 풀어주세요.
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한쪽 모서리를 먼저 당긴 다음 다른 모서리를 당기세요
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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하단 케이스를 분리하세요.
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디스플레이 힌지 근처 슬라이딩 클립을 제자리에 맞추고 정렬하세요. 커버를 아래로 누르고 힌지를 향해 미세요. 클립이 맞물리면 미끄러짐은 멈춰야 합니다.
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슬라이딩 클립이 완전히 맞물리고 하단 케이스가 올바르게 정렬된 것처럼 보이면, 하단 케이스를 단단히 눌러 아래에있는 숨어있는 클립 네 개를 맞물리세요. 그들이 제자리에 끼워지는 것이 느껴지며 소리가 들려야 합니다.
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배터리와 가장 가까운 로직 보드 가장자리에서 배터리 커넥터를 덮고있는 큰 테이프를 조심히 벗기세요.
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테이프를 떼어내세요.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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배터리 보드 데이터 케이블 커넥터를 덮고있는 작은 테이프 조각을 조심히 떼어내세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 케이블을 커넥터에 고정하는 작은 검정색 잠금 탭을 위로 젖히세요.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Jamie Near - 답글
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 배터리 전원 커넥터를 살살 들어 올려 배터리를 분리하세요.
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커넥터가 소켓에서 떨어져 있도록 충분히 높이 들어 올리세요. 수리 도중 실수로 접촉하면 MacBook Pro를 손상할 수 있습니다.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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iOpener를 준비하여 약 일 분 동안 트랙패드 리본 케이블 위에 놓고 트랙패드 리본 케이블을 배터리 상단에 고정하는 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.
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iOpener가 없는 경우, 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 케이블을 데우세요. 케이블은 따뜻해야 하지만 만지기에는 너무 뜨겁지 않아야 합니다. 배터리가 과열되지 않도록 주의하세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 트랙패드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열 개를 분리하세요:
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4.3mm 나사 두 개
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5.8mm 나사 여덟 개
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트랙패드 어셈블리를 분리하세요.
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트랙패드 아랫면에 있는 작은 와셔 여섯 개를 (원형 두 개 및 직사각형 네 개) 잃어버리지 않도록 주의하세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 키보드 커넥터 브래킷에서 1.9mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 키보드 커넥터를 로직 보드에서 똑바로 위로 들어올려 분리하세요
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버 사용:
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왼편 Thunderbolt 포트 커넥터 브래킷에서 1.4mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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오른편 Thunderbolt 포트 커넥터 브래킷에서 1.4mm 나사 두 개를 더 풀어주세요.
If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.
Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 왼편 Thunderbolt 포트 커넥터를 로직 보드에서 똑바로 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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로직 보드 분리에 방해되지 않도록 커넥터를 조심히 옆으로 밀어 놓으세요.
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오른편 Thunderbolt 포트 커넥터에 대해 반복하세요, 안쪽 가장자리를 들어 올리고 조심히 옆으로 밀어 놓으세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch ID 및 3.5mm 오디오 잭 커넥터를 고정하는 커버 브래킷에서 1.9mm 나사 두 개를 분리하세요.
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Spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 3.5mm 오디오 잭 플렉스 케이블을 로직 보드에서 똑바로 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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플렉스 케이블을 조심히 옆으로 밀어 놓으세요.
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iOpener, 히트 건 또는 헤어 드라이어를 사용하여 전원 버튼/Touch ID 플렉스 케이블 아래에 약한 열을 가하여 접착제를 부드럽게하세요.
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플렉스 케이블 밑으로 여는 픽을 조심히 밀어 로직 보드에서 분리한 다음 조심히 옆으로 밀어 놓으세요.
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어려움이 있으면, 무리하지 말고—열을 조금 더 가하고 다시 시도하세요.
First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.
Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?
I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…
Thanks again!
Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.
This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch Bar 디지타이저 커넥터 브래킷에서 1.9mm 나사를 풀어주세요.
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T3 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 Touch Bar 디스플레이 커넥터 브래킷에서 1.9mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
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왼편 메인 스피커 소켓을 덮고 있는 테이프를 벗기세요.
For me, the main speaker tape on both sides tore loose, which is a real shame, because those are the two hardest to get back in - they're very short and stiff.
Important safety tip: On my laptop, the cables have two semicircular notches near the end. You can tell when they're fully-inserted when the notches are inside the connector.
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반대편 트위터와, 오른편에 위치한, 메인 스피커를 분리하려면 이전 여섯 단계를 반복하세요.
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Tweeter/트위터 커넥터를 덮고 있는 테이프를 벗기며 시작하세요.
This step seems redundant as those six steps get repeated in detail anyway after this step.
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첫 번째 안테나 케이블을 소켓에서 똑바로 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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핀셋이나 spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 소켓 근처 케이블 아랫면에 조심히 밀어 넣은 다음 살살 비틀거나 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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이전 단계를 반복하여 나머지 안테나 케이블 두 개를 분리하세요.
Reconnecting is very tricky. It doesn't take much force to push down, but the connectors have to be perfectly aligned. You won't really feel it snap into place, but it will stay put and resist wiggling.
Agreed, very tricky step. I found the two slightly longer leads easier to reattach. Then I used them as a visual guide to attach the small lead. It helped to slightly bend the lead. Glenn is correct, it doesn’t take much pressure to attach but the leads have to be perfectly aligned. Be careful if you test the fit, very easy to pry back off.
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로직 보드 어셈블리를 고정하는 나사 열 개를 모두 풀어주세요:
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2.5mm Torx/톡스 T3 나사 세 개
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2.9mm Torx/톡스 T5 나사 다섯 개
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3.0mm Torx/톡스 T5 나사 두 개
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두 개의 고무 진동 댐퍼 스트립을 팬에 부착하는 접착제를 벗기세요 (분리는 하지마세요).
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필요한 경우, iOpener, 헤어 드라이어, 또는 히트 건으로 약한 열을 가하여 접착제를 약하게 하고 댐퍼를 쉽게 분리할 수 있습니다.
Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.
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로직 보드 어셈블리를 분리하려면 왼편을 들어 올리세요.
Wichtig !!
Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.
2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben
Ist nachgetragen. Danke!
What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.
Did I just break my laptop?
Translation
Important !!
First unscrew and loosen the display connection (rear center).
2x plates with 2 screws each
glendstone - 답글
@Glendstone You are absolutely right. This is a key feature they forgot to explain.
The feedbacis has possibly already been addressed in step 27 as it was already fully disconnected when I got to this step.
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고무 진동 댐퍼의 정렬을 확인하고 필요에 따라 조절하세요.
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로직 보드와 방열판 사이의 틈으로 안테나 케이블 번들을 넣고, 보드를 제위치에 내려놓을 때 올바르게 정렬되었는지 확인하세요.
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설치할 때 보드 밑에 케이블이 갇히지 않도록 하세요. 표시된 각 위치를 주의 깊게 확인하세요.
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T5 Torx/톡스 드라이버를 사용하여 배터리 보드에서 3.2mm 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.
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디스플레이를 보호하려면, 작업히는 동안 디스플레이와 키보드 사이에 알루미늄 호일 한 장을 놓아두세요.
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또한, 테이프 및/또는 호일을 사용하여 트랙패드 아랫면을 밀봉하세요. 옵션으로, 트랙패드 영역 바로 아랫면에 흡수 타월을 깔아서 과한 접착제 제거제를 흡수하세요.
From here onward I just used the plastic cards provided without the adhesive. It just cut through the tape and took them off in 2-3 mins without any issue. I tried the floss and it just kept breaking and I didn't want to use the adhesive remover liquid if I could find another way. Using the cards was the best for me.
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포장 테이프 또는 페인트 테이프를 잘라서 한쪽 가장자리를 배터리와 왼편 스피커 사이에 밀어 넣으세요.
I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.
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다른 스피커를 배터리로 부터 밀봉하기 위해 반대편에 이전 두 단계를 반복하세요.
Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..
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접착 제거제를 스피커에서 멀리 흐르게 하려면, 책이나 폼 블록을 사용하여 MacBook Pro 오른편 가장자리를 몇 인치 들어올리세요.
The Fix Kit box is the perfect size for this job. I stuck a little packing tape from the metal case to the box to stop it accidentally sliding off.
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이제 MacBook Pro는 완전히 준비되었으니, 귀하가 준비할 시간입니다.
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접착제 제거제를 취급하고 사용할 때는 보안경을 착용하세요. (보안경은 키트에 포함되어 있습니다.)
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보안경없이는 콘택트 렌즈를 착용하지 마세요.
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보호 장갑도 키트에 포함되어 있습니다. 피부 손상이 걱정된다면 지금 장갑을 끼세요.
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접착제 제거제 병에서 검정색 고무 마개를 당겨 빼세요.
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가위를 사용하여 봉인된 어플리케이터 끝을 자르세요.
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좁은 끝에 가깝도록 자르면 조절이 수월해져서 접착제 제거제를 소량으로 바를 수 있습니다.
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배터리 맨 오른편 아랫면에 접착제 제거제 몇 방울을 바르세요.
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다음 단계로 진행하기 전에 접착제 제거제가 스며들어 배터리 접착제가 부드러워질 때까지 약 2분 정도 기다리세요.
It REALLY IS strong solvent! I accidentally got some on the rubber strip between the battery and the logic board compartment and it peeled right off! I had to replace this with some spare rubber feet I had for another device.
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몇 분 후에 플라스틱 카드 한쪽 모서리를 전면 가장자리부터 시작하여 맨 오른편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 넣으세요.
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카드를 좌우로 흔들고 배터리 셀 아랫면에 끝까지 밀어 넣으세요.
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접착제를 들어서 완전히 분리하되, 배터리 셀은 아직 분리하지 마세요.
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계속하는 동안 셀이 다시 붙지 않도록 플라스틱 카드를 배터리 셀 아래에 임시로 놓아두세요.
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배터리 셀 아랫면에 카드를 넣는 것이 어렵다면, 배터리 셀 아랫면에 치실 또는 철사를 사용해 보세요. 접착제를 분리하기 위해 톱질 동작으로 좌우로 당기세요.
Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.
Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.
Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.
Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.
Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.
Danke für die Erläuterungen!
Translation (Google) : When removing the batteries with dental floss or masonry cord, loosen each battery separately. Thread it in from the back as shown in the picture and then release it to the front between the two batteries. Move the floss to the right and left like a saw. On the smaller batteries, the adhesive strips are from back to front. So this is also the direction how to solve them easily. The middle battery is glued from left to right. So you should change direction there.
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마지막 몇 단계를 반복하여 맨 왼편 배터리 셀을 분리하세요.
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먼저 MacBook Pro 왼편을 들어올려 접착제 제거제가 스피커에서 멀리 흐르도록 하세요.
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플라스틱 카드 한쪽 모서리를 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 밀어 넣고 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 조심히 분리하세요.
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계속하는 동안 접착제가 다시 붙지 않도록 플라스틱 카드를 셀 아랫면에 임시로 놓아두세요.
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나머지 배터리 셀 세개 아랫면에 접착제 제거제를 몇 방울씩 떨어뜨리세요.
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새어 나오는 것을 주의하고 필요한 경우 다음 단계에서 더 많은 접착제 제거제를 사용하세요.
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계속하기 전에 2분 정도 기다리세요.
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플라스틱 카드를 맨 왼편 배터리 셀 아랫면에 끝까지 밀어 넣고—이전 단계에서 이미 분리함—나머지 왼편 배터리 셀과 MacBook Pro 알루미늄 케이스 사이에 조심히 넣으세요.
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플라스틱 카드 중 하나의 모서리를 큰 중앙 배터리 셀 상단 가장자리 아랫면에 미세요.
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카드를 좌우로 흔들고 배터리 셀 아랫면에 밀어서 제자리에 고정하는 접착제를 완전히 분리하세요.
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배터리를 분리하세요.
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새 배터리를 설치하기 전에 MacBook Pro 케이스에 남아있는 접착제를 모두 제거하세요.
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핀셋이나 장갑을 낀 손가락을 사용하여 모든 큰 접착제 조각을 떼어내세요.
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플라스틱 도구로 남은 접착제 덩어리를 긁어 내고 접착제 제거제 또는 이소프로필 알코올로 아랫 부분을 청소하세요. 섀시가 깨끗하고 새 배터리를 위한 준비가 될 때까지 (앞 뒤가 아닌) 한 방향으로 닦으세요.
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완료하면 스피커에서 보호 테이프를 조심히 제거하세요.
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배터리 데이터 케이블을 유의하여 배터리 보드 아래에 집히거나 갇히지 않도록 하세요.
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배터리 밑바닥에 접착제가 사전-설치된 경우, 뒤집어서 조심히 라이너를 벗겨 접착제를 드러내세요. 배터리가 접착제를 포함하지 않은 경우, Tesa 61395와 같은 얇은 양면 접착 테이프를 사용하여 배터리를 제자리에 고정하세요.
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배터리를 조심히 배치하고 제자리에 맞추세요.
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각 셀을 5-10초 동안 길게 눌러 하단 케이스에 고정하세요.
Step 88 is a bit . . . . sparse. “Carefully position the battery and set it into place.“ Ha! Be prepared for mass amounts of swearing (and I don’t usually swear). iFixIt sends you a battery that has the adhesive strips covered with one long very thick piece of plastic. And by “battery” I mean five discreet sections held together with thin ribbon cables that make the entire thing as wriggly as a toddler and as unstable as my girlfriend in college. If you take it off the thick plastic and try to maneuver the battery into its very specific places while the battery’s strong adhesive strips stick to everything but what it should you will rue the day. Rue, I tell you! I cut the top piece of thinner plastic into three sections (middle, left side, right side) so I was able to place one section at a time, and it made it much easier (well, “much” may be a stretch. How about, “only slightly less-sweary”).
I feel sorry for Wayne though happy for his comment. I got my battery pack delivered with 5 separate plastic covers on the adhesive strips under, and one long plastic sheet holding the five parts together at the top. Thanks to the latter, I could easily position the 5-pack, remove the cover from the bottom parts one by one, and the holding sheet at last.
Thank you Wayne and thank you iFixit :-)
Thank YOU for this comment to Wayne because I too was confused about the purpose and proper use of the aligning plastic and adhesive pads. I originally thought it was meant to be the tape/pads to hold the new battery in place in the macbook, albeit they were a lot thicker and the way they were arranged etc made no sense for how to use it that way. Once I read your comment it all made sense and with the addition of some 3M double-sided I was all set. Thanks Paul!
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기기를 재조립하려면 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결
또는 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
기기를 재조립하려면 위의 단계들을 역순으로 따르세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결
또는 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에서 도움을 받으세요.
다른 40명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
95%
Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
번역 시작하기 ›
댓글 25개
You can remove the battery without removing the logic board, took me 45mins all in.
I did up to step 23 then jumped to 64, only a tiny bit of the battery cable is under the board and isnt glued down so can be removed/inserted easily.
i also didnt turn off autoboot as once the battery is disconnected it wont boot.
Darren - thanks for the hint! I was also wondering (and wouldn’t want to do) why to extract the whole logic board.
Overall took me an hour or so and I used the “thread” method to actually remove the batteries instead of the glue remover. Worked fine for me. The only issue was with getting the battery cable from und the board because of the tight fitting with the separator “wall” between the logic board and the main battery cell. I ended up breaking the glued little wall from the case, then you can easily slide the cable under the board and afterwards gluing it back into place.
All good now :-)
I exactly what Kerry did. You can break that “wall” and then you can easily slide the cable in under the logic board. Not sure what that wall does other than provide a stop from the bottom case pushing on battery. I glued it back and didn’t seem to have any problems. I did not use the double side tape to secure the batteries so it would be easier to change the next time. Don’ t know why apple has to put so much glue. Scraping off the batteries is the hardest part!
Here is a link to a picture of the batter “wall” that you can break off and then glue back. This will save you from removing the logic board:
I replaced the battery and it started up at first but when I went to unplug the mac it shut off, the next time I started it up it said that the battery wasn’t charging and shut off when I unplugged it even though the battery had 73% of charge. I opened the mac and made sure I did all the steps and make sure the battery was plugged in correctly, but now it won’t even startup at all.
Yes this also happened to me too! I think many of these batteries are older and will lose their charge over time, so if the new battery has a very low charge on it then there is a protection circuit on the board and it will not charge. Many lithium battery chargers have this as a safety precaution in case the battery is defective. This is what worked for me:
Remove the battery and the two gold tabs on the right that make contact with the logic board contacts (the ones that you but a screw in between) can be used to view how much voltage the battery is putting out. Just use a volt meter and you can also tell which contact is positive and which is negative. To add so voltage to the battery directly I just hooked this battery to a 12v trickle charger overnight. Be careful here! You do not want to overcharge the battery as this is very dangerous. Continued below….
I can’t guarantee this will work for you, but this is what I did and was happy it worked out for me. This is another reason why not to use the double sided tape (or use sparingly) until you know your battery is good. I had to take my battery out at least 3 times and I became an expert at changing the battery. It is easy if you don’t tape and you break that plastic wall to get the cables under the logic board. Good Luck!
Ian
The next morning the battery voltage did not change (I think it was really low to start with - I recall less than 3v) so I was a bit disappointed but I put it back into the Mabookpro and did not start right away. Instead I plugged in the charger and left the charger on the MacBook Pro for the rest for the day (about 18 hours). Then I booted up the MacBook Pro and it worked! The battery was fully charged and would hold its charge and recharge no problem.Â
Your initial 73% charge reading was probably wrong, my did this too the first time I installed and when I unplugged because it wasn’t uncharging the computer went off like it had no battery power. Continued below…
@Ian Jeffreys, so what did you do in the end, the 12v trickle charger or the 18h MBP charger?
Having the same issue myself now that the install is complete.
It boots same as ever when plugged in and all peripherals are functional (fingerprint, speakers, trackpad, TouchBar, etc), just no battery indicator anywhere, it's like it's not connected?
I'll try leaving it plugged in overnight before a full retracing of steps, hopefully it's just a serious low voltage making it fail to register with the system?
Thanks all who came before for the posting!
~MP
Update: removed the back cover and re-tightened the battery connection pancake screww et voilá!
I followed the suggestion of Darren and followed the ifixit guide to step 23 and then skipped to 64. There is no way I wanted to disassemble most of my Mac to swap the battery., Thanks Darren! When I swapped the battery, I gently slid the battery cable under the logic board without breaking the battery wall. Patience and gentleness is critical, force nothing at that step. My computer fired up and the new battery seems to operate normally. I spent about an hour and half for the whole swap, I had the Ifixit instructions on my iPad so I could reference them as I went through each step. I also watched several yourtube videos in preparation for the swap.
Thanks. Great tutorial. Worked like a charm, including the shortcut.
My Battery-Set that I bought had all the tools except the T3 Torx included. Also included was a plastic push thingy with a handle to scrap underneath the battery packs and “cut” the glue-stickers/tape. A bit scary, since the batteries did bend a little. But 2 Minutes later I had the batterie in my hand. Much better than risking to ruin the display and/or keyboard and everything stays dry. Glue remover on an ear-bud does the rest.
Another hint: In step 23 watch out for the 6 tiny washers on the touchpad. They are loosely placed. I turned the touchpad around to put it away and all washers fell to the ground. Now I am missing a small one…
Everybody out there: Good luck !
I was going through the steps and got to step 33 by the time I realized I didn’t have to gut the whole laptop just to remove the battery! Shame on you iFixit!
I put the hot iOpener on top of the palm rest, since the touchpad was out by then, and used the plastic card to slowly scrape at the adhesive. Worked like a champ even without the liquid treatment. The battery didn’t even blow up in my face even though it was puffed up.
But, I got a DOA battery, not from iFixit, and had already stuck it in place using the provided adhesive. I’ve receive about the same amount of DOA batteries for Apple products than Windows products, if that accounts for anything. Apple batteries purchase since 2012, about 10. Windows laptop batteries purchased since 2012, too many to even try to count.
OK, für die deutschen Benutzer ein paar Ergänzungen:
Die Schritte zwischen 23 und 64 sind definitiv nicht notwendig. Man kann das Kabel der Akku-Platine auch entfernen, ohne dass das Mainboard ausgebaut ist. Am einfachsten ist es, wenn man zuerst den rechten Teil des Kabels entfernt beziehungsweise beim Einbau einfügt. Dann muss man auch nicht das kleine Kunststoffstückchen ausbrechen.
Am schwierigsten empfand ich das Lösen der Verklebung des Akkus. Man kann dazu langsam Plastikkarten unterschrieben, die die Akkuteile leicht nach oben drücken. Wenn man dann einige Zeit wartet, hat sich der Akku ein wenig gelöst und man kann die Plastikkarte etwas nachschieben. Das wiederholt man einfach, bis der ganze Akku gelöst ist.
Die Klebstoffreste kann man sehr gut mit Brennspiritus einlösen und entfernen, ohne dass man Gefahr läuft, durch Aceton Kunststoffteile zu beschädigen.
Noch ein Hinweis zu Schritt 15: den Akkustromstecker braucht man nur leicht anzuheben, um die Stromversorgung zu unterbrechen. Zur Sicherheit ein kleines Stück Tesafilm unterkleben.
Bei meinem ersten Zusammenbau ist es mir nicht gelungen, das Trackpad 100-prozentig mittig auszurichten.
Ich bin dann so vorgegangen:
1. Ich habe die zehn Befestigungsschrauben des Trackpads leicht gelöst.
2. Dann habe ich an allen vier Seiten zwei Papierstreifen zwischen Trackpad und Gehäuse geklemmt.
3. Anschließend habe ich die Befestigungsschrauben wieder angezogen.
Das Trackpad ist nun wunderbar mittig ausgerichtet.
Noch etwas zu Schritt 15:
Ich war zuerst etwas verwirrt, weil ich den Stecker beim besten Willen nicht heraus bekam. Tatsächlich handelt es sich auch gar nicht um einen Stecker, sondern nur um eine Kontaktplatte, die mit der Befestigungsschraube angedrückt wird und so den Kontakt zum Akku herstellt. Also nicht wie ich an diesem Ding herumrupfen!
Es wäre sinnvoll, die Beschreibung entsprechend zu ändern.
Merci pour ce tutoriel tres precis qui m’a permis de changer la batterie de mon MacBook !! :)
I did the full teardown replacement, went smoothly, just be careful of your ziff sockets and tape tabs, you really want them to survive. This really takes a solid 3 hours! Not my first mac battery replacement but this one you go deep. Thanks for the photos, saved a whole lot of time! Adhesive from !&&*!!!
David Neff - 답글
Plus 1 for removing the battery without taking the logic board out. With a bit of care the flat flex can babe slid out from under on removal and back under on installation.
Hallo hab gerade in 3 Stunden meine MacBook Pro Batterie gewechselt, die alte(n) haben das Gehäuse gebläht und die Kapazität war kleiner eine Stunde. Hatte erst Angst das Digitalboard komplett raus zu nehmen, ging aber nach Anleitung sehr gut. Die Akkus habe ich mit einem stumpfen Spachtel rausgelöst, wenn mans mal gemacht hat kein Problem.
Wichtig ist vorher wirklich tiefentladen, ansonsten sind Akkus halt schon keile Bomben.
Also gerne wieder, das Akku Kit ist klasse, der Mac sofort wieder hochgefahren und jetzt lädt er (-:
Definitely jump from Step 23 to Step 67. As others noted, just break the small piece blocking the battery board (actually it’s not breaking, it’s only a glued piece).
Instead of the adhesive remover liquid provided in the pack and the floss I used the plastic cards to remove the battery. The floss kept breaking and I didn't want to risk with the adhesive remover. With the plastic cards I did it in 3-5 min.
Replaced the batteries and I was so glad to see the MBP start again, after it was completely dead for a few weeks! I thank God for your work. God bless
Like others, I skipped the whole section on removing the logic board in the fixit guide, followed it up to step 23 and then skipped to 67.
Used the adhesive remover and the battery came out with some tugging, then used the fluid to clean it any residue.
The old battery was so dead that the Mac wouldn't even switch on when power was plugged in, so it was good to see the Mac booting up straight away as soon as I powered it up on battery. Battery reported to be at 33% with health warning, but after a reboot, the warning disappeared and it's now charging up nicely.
Very good instructions and kit supplied was brilliant.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - 답글
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - 답글
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - 답글
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - 답글
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - 답글
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - 답글
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - 답글
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - 답글
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - 답글
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - 답글
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - 답글
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - 답글
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - 답글
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - 답글
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - 답글
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - 답글
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - 답글
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - 답글
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - 답글
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - 답글
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - 답글
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - 답글
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - 답글
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - 답글
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - 답글
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -